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()__1337_CRAYOLA__()>

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Everything posted by ()__1337_CRAYOLA__()>

  1. well this is the second year I've gone on one of these and both years my oil pressure gauge stoped working.... time to find a new gauge cluster again....
  2. Wait why are you running 92 in your N/a cars... 92 just has a higher anti-knocking capacity I've never noticed a difference in premium vs regular in my little EA81 Soobie Rob I'm sure your RX would scare the living heck out of me I'll stick to my 70HP slow poke wagon not your monster ea82T :-p
  3. haha you turbo charged guys are funny having to run premium while all us n/a guys can run chepo gas with no problems :-p
  4. check to see if you put one of the bolts in backwards right at the shift lever
  5. 1983 GL 4" SJR aluminum Lift fixed the shoty steering extension with a dual u-joint one New to me EA81 Fixed the exhaust (clogged cat and resonator) welded a cherry bomb and rice rocket muffler on Built a big old roof basket (brother welded it all up for me and i cut all the stock.... not very well i might add he wouldn't stop yelling at me for all the unevenly cut pieces) 14" pugs with 205-70-14's waiting for my 205/70-15 Firestone winter force's to get in for my 15" pugs Bill's Power steering kit installed skid plate and front push bar installed Fixed all the messed up wiring from the PO who just twisted alot of the wires together.......
  6. wow no it is a ea81 with ea82 fuel injection... and thats kinda weird someone put a turbo pulley and water pump on a N/A Block and yes the steering works way better without the rag joints it's a lot smoother now but i was just curious if the 2 12mm bolts holding it together was enough in other peoples oppinion.
  7. who else has a double belt setup on their ea81 and what is the part number for the water pump with the dual pulley i cant find it any where online, or in parts stores. i took everyones advice and put in a double u-joint extension in but i couldn't figure out how you guys put one piece extensions in i had to use a flange to get it to go in. so my question is, is this acceptable? but i know it is a better solution than what i had
  8. yeah i figured that out i got a nice bar and put about that much on it
  9. well turns out when i rebooted my front axle i didn't get the nut tight enough.... tightened it down a little more today and all is well.. although i see wheel bearings in my future...
  10. i inspected not to long ago while putting my bigger tires on and they were about 3/4 life left
  11. I was driving around Seattle all day today and i was getting this thumping from the front right of my car. It would only do it at low speeds while braking (clutch pedal in),compression braking and slow coasting(no it wasnt because of the road ). I inspected everything on the front end i could laying on the side of the road but everything looks to be in order. i went to a friends house and came out and drove home and it was gone, although it was doing it last time i was in Seattle and as soon as i left i never thought about it again till today. and i also picked up a rattling from the passenger rear at 55-65 MPH today as well. BTW 1983 Subaru GL 4WD with 5 speed conversion and SJR 4" lift.
  12. is there anything i can do to stop the corners from leaking, it leaks in between the glass and the gasket and my floor boards fill up every time it rains. maybe someone knows an independent shop around Seattle that will just change the gasket.... I've called a bunch of shops but everyone says they cant do just a gasket even though the windshield is 1 1/2 years old with no rock chips.
  13. if you come towards seattle there is a place called Pacific Industrial Supply that has good prices. thats where i get all my metals but its quite a drive for you.... i built a big basket for my rig for about 30 dollars so the bumper wouldn't be much. http://www.pacificindustrial.com/134/1920.html <---- metal prices by pound / foot, you have to call for current prices because they change daily
  14. i wish i had a shop in Seattle that would touch my 83 wagon no one will replace the gasket for the windshield and when ever it rains my floor boards fill up because the gasket leaks between the glass and seal not the body and seal.... and the windshield is only 1-2 years old....
  15. Resonator was full of crap as well today when i cut it out to check it so i replaced it with a Cherry Bomb
  16. well it runs like a champ now! i open up the cat cause my bro said it has to be clogged and i found that all the catalyst was gone and this was clogged hard in to the exit of the cat hahahaha Lesson learned the vacuum check for clogged cats does not work....
  17. so what the heck is wrong with my car if it threw a light but doesn't show a code.... new fuel filters and just cleaned the MAF.... i give up on this fuel injected stuff haha...
  18. Ok i have a 1983 Wagon with fuel injection swap. I've been having trouble with the car since i got it, it wont hold speed up hills and just down on power, but today i go out to fire it up and it shows no sign of life just turning over no sputtering or anything. So i add some throttle to see if it will come to life and it fires up and the engine light comes on and at this point it is running like poo. so i pull the kick panel down and plug the green connectors in to check codes and it shows a code of 5. now that would be fine and dandy but i cant find anywhere for a problem related to 5 flashes. (yes it is 5 short consecutive flashes then a long pause then it does it over again) so WTF.... I'm about to rip all the FI stuff of and throw it away for a weber.... (also i don't know if it matters tho i don't know the year of the FI swap either...)
  19. check the timming belts... sounds like one sanpped
  20. Well after 20 hours of installing and tinkering with everything the 83 Wagon is lifted and drivable . And while I'm at it does anyone have a better idea for a steering extention for this or is this an acceptable extension. This is the best i could do with the way the power steering shaft is. The angle was to great even with a u-joint in there and it bound so i cut a inch off the steering shaft to move the top part back and i put 2 rubber couplings in as well as a U-joint to make it smooth and not bind.... Who has a better idea? I can't put 2 u-joints in or it will flip flop around so I'm stuck....
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