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i finally figured out the steering.... the power steering is a completely different beast compared to the manual rack on my brat i ended up having to take a inch off the steering shaft and taking 2 rubber couplings to connect a shaft in-between to make my steering work without binding.... all is well i figured everything out thanks everyone

the aluminum strut extension had a arrow cast into it pointing what way it went in and that's how it went in..... and i don't think i can do another U joint as it will flip flop and what not....

OK for those of you with power steering how the heck do i make the almost 90 degree connection on the steering.... and also i have a lot of camber in the front now.... what causes this i put it in the way it was suppose to but i have A LOT of camber..... and my DD is down till i find out a way to connect the steering i know someone knows!!!! this is a SJR lift aluminum strut extensions and aluminum diff drop plate with box steel spacers

was it cosmic blue and was the hood still there on the ea81?

alrighty thanks

but why do i need to extend the rear brake line when i lift my ea81.... i remember on my brat i did the disk brake conversion but cant remember why.... trying to get everything setup for when my lift comes in this week. i know i have to extend the fronts 4 inches though. and can i keep the drums and just extend the hard line with another piece?

so everything checks out alright and today i never really rev it going to or comming from work so out of the parking lot cold it revs just fine so im think it has to do with something when the car gets up to temp maybe the FP is weak after running for an extended amount of time? is that possible or should i look somewhere elsE?

just installed this engine compression was even and in normal range i just forgot what readings were and it did the same thing with the prior engine i just thought it was the engine haha. I'm thinking cat is part of the reason but i can have a full tank of gas and it will still cut the fuel i have no power after about 4k which is where it builds the most power IMO... so i guess ill go through again and change the filters maybe grab a pump from the JY ... and i guess ill get a FPG tomorrow... where in the line should i put it to check fuel pressure? It will fuel cut if your going up hill, down hill, flat it doesn't matter. Just did the vacuum test and it holds steady at 20 Inches And it isn't throwing any codes and it hasn't since Ive owned it.

all the filters are new it does it no matter if it's full tank or 1/4 tank and its spfi not carb

1983 Gl Wagon EA81 with spfi & 5speed swap. I cant hold speed up hill and i have fuel cut at 5k rpm. The timing is dead on new plugs wires cap rotor. WTH is making my wagon such a gutless turd. out of all the Subaru's i have ever owned this is the only one that cuts the fuel at 5k. And the only really really gutless ea81 i've ever seen. Maybe my FPR is messed up or my fuel pump is weak? No check engine light runs great on the bottom end but top end isn't there... haha:horse: oh and my cat just stoped ratteling recently im gonna gut it and see if that helps...

oh and to answer your question they are Uniroyal Liberator A/T's P225/70R14

Wow that is my old BraT!!!!! man he cut the basket i built off of the roll bar.... that took me 4 hours to make...... at least he is enjoying it now to see if he will sell me the basket back hahaha :-p

These are flexi flares i found at auto barn http://www.autobarn.net/pac52170.html?site=google_base You need 2 Orders of them to do a whole car

you can use a EA82 oil pan plug in a EA81 they are pretty much the same pan except for baffling.

one time my brakes did that in my 91 loyale and it was the e-brake out of adjustment.....

i ran dual exhaust on my brat it worked good with the Weber carb, didn't feel a gain or loss in power it just sounded cool.... you'll need a cross over between the pipes

2 core for the win

I've had bad luck with the cherry bomb mufflers the seams rust and leak shortly after putting them on

you can laugh at me all you want... but my buddy traded me the muffler he bought for his Honda to wire in his radio. and well the wagon needed a new muffler anyway. it turned out alright it doesn't look outrageously ricer or anything (to me at least). It sounds very good for a 2" inlet to a 4" outlet not to loud but just right....

you can cut the muffler off and replace it with a turbo muffler.... no need to weld just get muffler clamps and your golden. you should never add holes to an exhaust system as it could allow the gasses to enter the cab which is never good.

after i cleaned it all up with some soap and water and vacuumed popped the trunk it has a new alternator, starter, 1 ton car jack, spare tire and jumper cables back there:banana::banana: you can see the dent well in the pic above.... then theres just minor dents and dings through out the body but the hood is by far the worst part as i was taking the pic above i realized the rear seat has a small tear on the top of both the left and right sides and there was a HTKYSA Under the seat another score

i haven't completely decided to keep it :-\ i might sell it to my friend that needs a car, i do love it though... amazingly it has California emissions stuff on it and it runs better then my 83 wagon and my brother 82 hatch

well almost just not as nice but rust free :banana::banana: scored it for $200 great interior except dash 5speed FWD 195k on the clock and it runs like a champion i need a Light Blue Hood and a Ignition with key if anyone has those lemme know

just get your ranchos crossed over to air shocks so you can play with the pressure till you like the ride

super wide off set O.o cool looking though