Partsman

Check it out: http://search.ebay.com/1981-subaru-manual-owners-chilton-haynes-hanes-mirror-clymer-chiltons-owners-pedals_W0QQsofocusZbsQQsbrftogZ1QQfromZR10QQsatitleZ1981Q20subaruQ20manualQ20-ownersQ20-chiltonQ20-haynesQ20-hanesQ20-mirrorQ20-clymerQ20-chiltonsQ20-ownerQ27sQ20-pedals Just don't get in a bidding war against each other!

Have you guys got oil pressure lights? That one goes for $8. There is a second line Napa one for gauge listed (wasn't at work to check for last post) for $22, but nothing cheaper. If the leak is around the threads, teflon tape would work - but so might just tightening it up. They are pipe threads - designed to be torqued on. If the leak is coming out the body of the sender, then it's time to start shopping. Of course, if it were me, I might just head to the local Pick-N-Pull for one...

I agree - unless you're itching to weld. Get a good bodied wagon with engine problems and transplant your sedan's engine and you'll be much happier.

Do you have that custom cam grind with EXTRA lift? Or perhaps you were at 10k and the valve was flying into interference? OR - you got the ONE motor that Fuji built that was interference (secret project - very hush-hush)

Sounds to me like Turbone was trying NOT to offend you by PM'ing it to you. He is correct in that there are several steps which can be taken in stopping ticking - from flushing/Marvel Mystery oil (in case it is a particle blocking a passage) to resealing the pump (if Mickey has failed) to replacing the pump (if it is failing) to replacing the seal to the valvetrain to disassembling the lifters themselves, cleaning and replacing. Do a search for "lifter noise" or "ticking" or such and you will find many threads hashing over these fixes. That's why you got the PM and the various spanks on this thread - it was kind of like walking into a proctologists convention and saying, "Hey! You can stay cleaner if you wear gloves when you do exams!" Just remember - search first, ask questions later. And don't be embarrassed! I posted not too long ago that a friend of mine had put Peugeot rims on his wagon and asked if anyone else knew about this trick. Got some kind spankings that told me they were what everyone calls "pugs" on this board, and indeed everyone had known about it (but me) since God was a boy.

NAPA - OP6082 (w/gauge) - around $34

Older dealer network (closer to Japan)? More mountains? More hippies? No salt on road to eat away sheet metal?

If you search for "EGR solenoid" or "Code 34", you will come up with lots of people who have had (or currently have ) a EGR solenoid problem. Doesn't seem to affect driveability a whole lot, although I wonder if I will get better mileage when I get mine fixed. You should refer to the FSM code 34 test (I used the one at finleyweb.net for a 1989). You can use a good canister purge valve as well to replace the EGR one, you just have to change the connector. Personally, I did all of that and it ends up my ECM has a bad solenoid circuit now! To the junkyard I go again!

. They ganged horn and ECU on the same fuse? Man, there's a safety feature! If your horn circuit shorts, you're not going ANYWHERE!

Wiper snuggies: NAPA# 735-3921 (chrome), 735-3922 (black) around $3.50-$4 a pair.

If you've been getting crap gas like we have, you may need to spray out your throttle body and run some Techron/44K/Seafoam through it. Mine bucked like a bronco until I took the clamp off the intake hose and sprayed down the gunk.

It may be getting held up at the border right now to search the oil for contraband, but in its heart, it's ALREADY south!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6762&item=7901621235&rd=1 No bids - starting bid $2.50

That's the purpose, but the Sub spec filter doesn't have one - hence my worry that it may be under high pressure.

I don't think so. Too many case histories on here with good results. Any Subaru experts know why they changed to different size pistons in 85 master cylinders? I mean, since each side of the m/c runs one front and the opposite rear brake, it doesn't make sense!

Subaru stuff makes me wanna - Yes - !

. BTW, if I wasn't a Sub freak, I probably would have told you the same thing. Balkamp does not even refer to the Speedbleeder part #. Bleeders aren't listed by application, either. Digging out bleeders from calipers and wheel cylinders, measuring them, then digging in the books for a $10 sale isn't most parts dudes idea of a good time - I just happen to be Different! :slobber:

Sorry, I've been busy and haven't checked back. Balkamp (the NAPA line that has such things as Speedbleeders and all sorts of accessory crap) only picks up the fastest moving part numbers from suppliers. SO, we do not have the rears exactly. There are some M7x1.0 bleeders that are only 34mm long that MIGHT work - part# 675-1572. BTW, for you old guys (79 and prior), the front bleeders by my catalog are 675-1572 as well. ADD Just checked the website - I think the 675-1572's ARE the SB7100's

The front speed bleeders are NAPA part # 675-1570 - look like the part# SB1010S to me (Balkamp, NAPA's supplier, renumbers everything to screw up countermen). The rears (drum) aren't listed here - by measuring one off my shelf it looks like the SB7100 should work - little shorter on the head side, but the depth looks the same by the picture on the website. And now I'll get back to work too!

How about if I prove you right! The master cyl's are the same 85-94 in the NAPA listings, and I checked with my local dealer and the proportioning valve is the same for disc and drum (at least in 1988, the year I asked about). The master cylinder is different 84 and older - both bores are 13/16" versus one 13/16" and one 1" in the later models, so that might cause a problem when you cross years, but obviously it isn't much of a problem with all the case histories on this board!

Go to page 49 of this PDF version of the '89 FSM: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf

I love the part where he advises you to celebrate finishing your repair by pouring a stiff one, rolling one, chopping one, saying a mantram, or one other thing. Oh, the joys of the early 70's when the love was free and the drugs didn't kill you!

Yes. Can't tell you what pressure Subes have at the filter, so it may not be an issue, but it could be!

Try your library - I've got the one from Eugene public library checked out right now. I like to have a variety of opinions, so I have the FSM off Finleyweb, a Haynes and I use Alldata from the public library. My advice - find a FSM! They show up on Ebay regualarly.

Yeah, they all have the same threads. Look in the section "Lube and Hydraulic filters by thread size" - not at work so I can't give you page #. It's the new '04 book. The only variable on all those filters was gasket sealing area, but they all seem to be compatible with the 1361 size (bigger mostly, like the 1515).