daeron

I had forgotten.. Are you danish, or did you emigrate there? Your English is Excellent!!! good luck on the XT

I just went and double checked.. there is an EA81 FSM available for download right there.

I haven't seen the subaru switch, but I have had one or two apart on other cars and thought there might be a good chance of this. I should have mentioned it, because its another reason to go to a junkyard and look at what is (hopefully) a proper functioning unit first, to help you recognize anything that may be functionally wrong on yours. Good luck, whatever you do.

might not hurt to try going to a junkyard to "figure it out" on a sacrificial car... I was going to suggest inspecting the flasher unit, but you already found the problem, so nevermind :-p

Factory cruise control On/off switch went right underneath the rear defrost button, too... but its not a common option.

That thing is ****in beautiful! I mean, BEAUTIFUL!! AMC hornet, eat your heart out! I have to make clear that I am not much of an off-road man, and have always leaned more towards the sportscar end of the auto spectrum... think lowered XT6, not lifted hatch. Plus, loud tires always piss me off when I am on the road, so... like you said, don't run the swampers on the road. Those rims and rubber make the BRAT look incredible, IMHO.. I think this may be one of my favorite photos ever, to be frank. (BTW, Roger, roger.)

Not trying to dissuade you from getting new bolts.... but how tight are you torquing them? off the top of my head, I wanna say that the book calls for 12-15 lbs of torque on those bolts... Gloyale's point was that steel intake manifold bolts have only one excuse to need replacement: rust. They shouldn't be flexing or wearing at all. Like I said, I am not trying to be argumentative about it.. just making sure you aren't grossly overtorquing your intake bolts.

He needs a crossmember cut out for the turbo piping, that has accommodation for the steering gear on the right side of the vehicle. He has a turbo X member that would need to be altered to look SOMEwhat stock, to relocate the steering gear to the Right side, or he could alter the RHD X member to accommodate the turbo. I don't have an opinion, since I can't even visualize the difference (never seen a turbo car) but I thought I would digest that for our resident guru.

is this guy: going to fix that headlight before he drives the car cross country?? It will be interesting to see whether the 4wd car gets better fuel economy, or the AT car. it IS a 3AT, right? Sounds like a blast, might not hurt you each to divide up a list of some spare parts to carry like belts, maybe a fuel pump, and tools? A little karmic action never hurt anyone.

change your oil now. Drain it into a cat pan, or similar open pan, and let it sit. examine it for signs of milkiness or water, or antifreeze. I had to do the headgaskets on my EA82 under similar circumstances; however, i was getting brown nastiness in my radiator, and changing my oil revealed that NO water or antifreeze was leaking into the oil... I put about 10K miles on the car in this situation before changing the head gaskets, and have put about 7K on it since then with no problems. Secondly, chiltons SUCKS. It may be better for an EA81 owner than an EA82.. but they still suck. I THINK theres a link to an EA81 FSM here http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm but there may be better versions elsewhere. (not an ea81 owner, sorry :-p) Finally, do it yourself. if you can rebuild the top end of a motorcycle engine you can do this. I had never done engine work more major than a timing belt change (personally; i have a large family and we are all gearheads, so I have "sat in" on race engine builds... just never DONE anything on my own) and it took me one day to tear down, and one day to rebuild, my EA82.. short, easy days at that. The pushrod engine should be even simpler and easier.

First off, :clap: :clap: you posted your problem, then immediately realized how incredibly redundant the question was, took some initiative, and answered your own first questions!! Seriously, thank you! that does not happen enough here. Back on-subject, three things cause this problem: 1. low oil pressure in the engine; 2. low oil pressure inside the lifters themselves, caused by buildup of gunk and debris in the check valve that lets oil in but is supposed to hold it in and not let it out (or, rarely, caused by worn lifters); 3. or air bubbles in the oil stream, caused by a seal in the oil pump that has "pulled" in to the oil flow. If seafoam or MMO or ATF in the oil didnt clear it out, the next step is to reseal or replace your oil pump; even if your pressure is good, if the pump is old the chances are the seal has gotten squished. That is at least SLIGHTLY easier than replacing all 8 HLA's. search for mickey mouse seal, or oil pump, and it will get you more information. There is also a metal reinforced O ring that sits between the cam carriers, and the cylinder head proper, that seals the oil passage supplying the lifters. This seal can also sometimes get squished and cause the same problem as the mickey mouse seal. IF you decide to trust your oil pump, then make sure you have an FSM handy (click) and pull the top parts of your cylinder heads apart. Order the cam case O rings from http://www.thepartsbin.com (it is an Ishino Brand; OEM are the only metal reinforced o rings) and check each HLA per the FSM. IIRC, when placed in a cup of oil, and depressed repeatedly, they should eventually resist depressing further than 0.1 inch or something like that; any further and its "bad" but I had several that tested "bad" by this procedure and reinstalled them to no ill effect. It also comes and goes sometimes; it IS to a certain degree a characteristic of the engine. Ideally, they shouldn't make noise, but we have ALL dealt with it before and probably will again.

I miss my DADs XT6, and i havent ridden in it since I was 13! I drive EXACTLY like you do, connie, but I have the trans the cracker does... 3AT fartbox. My foot is on the floor almost constantly. I limit myself to about ten over, sometimes less.. but sometimes more I haven't gotten a speeding ticket since I stopped driving the Z-car and started driving the soob, i LOVE it!!! My insurance is down to a ridiculously low monthly amount these days. I beat the snot out of my car, and give it every single little thing it asks for as soon as I possibly can. I have found that being proactive about the use, and renewal of every aspect of the car is the best way to keep it going well. Cars that get babied too much wind up as couch-potatoes.. atherosclerosis of the PCV system, doncha know...

I am a little confused.. you said above that it ran "fine" once it was warm. Are you saying that it sounds fine, despite this discovery that cylinder 1 is apparently not firing, ever? What I mean is, would it seem like cylinder 1 has not been working since you started troubleshooting this problem, or does it come and go? Well, lets ignore all the previous posts about whats new or "good" just to avoid overlooking any possiblities. Carb'ed vehicle, so no on fuel; cyl. 1 gets the same fuel as everyone else. You mentioned compression, obviously must check. The only thing particular to that cylinder is the valvetrain, spark plug, spark plug wire, and rotor terminal. Try swapping spark plugs and see if your problem follows a bad plug, try swapping wires for the same reason, and try (IF you can) to flip the distributor cap 180* and see if the problem follows that "button" on the cap. So it looks like ignition parts, or possibly compression issue from a bad headgasket or MAYBE something wrong with the valvetrain..

Look like this? I have to get up there (been crazy busy on my days off) and measure it, but thanks for the measurement on your rad.. this is either an EA81 radiator or something slightly older, unsure if they were for automatic trans or not but IF its for your car, I will sell you one on the cheap, and its an old OEM part, never used.

OEM intake manifold gaskets, http://www.thepartsbin.com

w00t! W00t, I say!

biggest waste of time, ever. although I must admit when he had the thing BLOW UP I was in stitches.. my first thought was "he must have gotten a turbo car!" 3.. mains.. saves.. the... ... ... What?!?!!!!!?

heyyyyy.... is that a water cooled EA82 turbo on the right side of that row? could you take some more pictures of that so I can compare them to the loosely ID'd "subaru turbos" I have up at the shop? I am 90% positive that they are all oil cooled, so they may be early ea82/ea81 turbos.. is there much difference? TIA

whats so different about the intake ports between the EA81t and the EA82t? if the SPFI from the 82 swaps onto the 81 so easily, it begs the question of whether the turbo manifolds could possibly be exchanged for one another, thus allowing you to simply install an ea81t block into an ea82t car? Of course, the issues of installing the longblock into the chassis have to be overcome. I have no idea what those might be, but i could see possible issues with engine crossmember, maybe axle hookup? Minimal stuff. It seems almost like there HAS to be a good reason it hasn't been done.. is there? otherwise, why no high comp ea81T XT or RX?

that is SO awesome. thanks mcbrat

I cant decide whether the engine sounds like an airplane, and airBOAT, a lawnmower, or a tractor. I love it, but this video does the exhaust note of the engine no justice. This guy needs dual range

Communist Gnomes? weapons of mass detonation "take the liberty?" BAD PUN. we arent even talking EJ here... I must say I wish I had read this: before replacing my headgaskets.. but I guess I am not that worried, just mildly regretful.

drain gas, pour marvel mystery oil in the tank, drain it, add a little fresh gas, drain it, and fill up. add some sea foam or MMO to the gas you fill up with, to clear out the fuel lines. after all this is done, you MIGHT want to replace the fuel filters.

yer tellin me.... throw the three into a tree!

Hit the company's website. I repaired century/solar and lincoln equipment at a registered warranty center. None of that should really matter. Find a repair center and see if you can get the part; it is ABSURDLY easy to replace the stuff on these machines. The motor should be visible from the wire loading side; if not the motor, than at LEAST the output shaft, and the motor is on the other side of the dividing wall. These people try to honor their warranties to the utmost. It IS a cheap unit, but I was afraid it might be Harbor Freight, Chinamart cheap... if its a century/solar piece, then seriously, you should be able to get it taken care of.