daeron

I could try to take some more detailed photos of the assembly where the cable runs into the bracket that splits it between gas door, and trunk latch, since my car is conveniently rusted to oblivion right there:

Well, I would KILL for a little play right about now... but when it comes to your gearbox, I would have to know how much play. What kind of "gap" is created by this play at the exit point of the shaft? IE, not how much does the end of the shaft move side to side, but how much does the shaft move from the inner race of the bearing?

But the temperature is staying steady?? You said you already put an aftermarket temp gauge on, you WERE talking about the stock gauge needle bouncing despite the temp staying steady on the aftermarket one, right?

OR, wait at least ten, fifteen minutes after you "bump" the thread back to the top. putting the word "Quick!!" in the subject might help as well; it will let everyone know that youve got a question in the middle of a job, and you can always apologize for your haste in the body of your post. Despite all that, I have to say that it REALLY is best to ask all questions before you get into the job; obviously this couldnt have been done in this case, but my point is that as much help as everyone here has been to me, MOST of the times I was in mid-job and had something "come up," the forum was no big help; you just cant count on the handful of members that are viewing the forum at any given time to even read the thread right away, still less be able to help you. IF you indicate in the subject that haste would be appreciated, you do increase your odds.

sounds like a blast!!! When in doubt, add/change lubricant. Sea Foam Deep Creep is better than PB Blaster, it makes PB look like WD40. Nasty epic, but glad you got it done in the end. The rotors werent any thinner than spec, were they? If so, then I wouldnt expect very good brakes.. The reason they are only supposed to grind down to a certain point is because the calipers will not squeeze the pads any closer together than that. And, finally.. Where in GA are you? I have a buddy from Athens :cool:

Where is THAT sub-forum at?!???

You are not listening... Do you have little minions, 3 millimeters tall, who have run down into the radiator with flashlights, inspecting all the coolant channels? Did they also inspect the block?? Did you tell them that even if a passage was clear, that mineral build up will still insulate the water and keep it from cooling? Because other than that, and feeling for "cool spots" with your hand, you have no way of knowing when your radiator is plugged up inside. Generally speaking, when a car overheats, with a new water pump, no thermostat, proper fan operation, and proper timing setting...... then that means (REGARDLESS of what you think about the radiator) that the radiator is NOT shedding enough of the the heat that it needs to shed. In other words, ALL the symptoms you have laid out are telling us all that either you've missed something, or flush be damned your radiator needs to be replaced. I am not trying to be an rump roast, I am just making a point. Your fins COULD also be covered in a fine coat of road sludge; soaking them with simple green and then blasting them with water from inside the engine bay can do WONDERS. What about the AC condenser? is there one? does air flow through it easily and then through the radiator? Dirty fins are as bad or worse than rotten ones. Shine a light through your coils and see how much obstruction there REALLY is. You might be shocked. Just a couple of ideas.. you do seem a bit backed into the corner on this one, so I was trying to get under your skin a little to force you to re-think your situation. thats all :-p

Uhhh... I would have sworn that my dads XT6 had a range button on it before I ever even got my Subaru.. I used to brag about that car to all my car buddies whenever the subject of subaru came up, and the trip computer was one of my big points about it. I MAY be wrong... but I cannot imagine where I got the misconception that it had the Range function before I ever even got my GL-10. The display on the non-XT trip computer cars takes the place of the clock. since an analog dash using a digidash sender only registers 3/4 for a full tank, I would imagine that the digi sender has a narrower range of resistance than the analog sender.. Anyone have an idea what the actual resistance ranges are for them?

I would suggest having someone with a sewing machine simply stitch a couple of straps to the underside of it, that you could slip between the bumper and the under headlight trim panel, and "pull" the thing down into that corner with them. Fastening the other ends of these tabs would be up to you.

Theres your problem, right there!!! you need to be HEBRAIC when working on turbochargers, not Gentile!!!! Have your screwdrivers been certified Kosher? Do you have your Kashrut Certificate in your garage???? Sorry, just a little nerd humor. (gentile means non-jewish, hebraic means jewish)

Faithless, thats something of an understatement. If you ask me, this is the picture they should have in the dictionary for "subaru loyale" (even if it IS a GL, you get my drift) that wagon just looks great, and every time I see it I think so.

find the HTKYSA, it has a good procedure on inspecting your suspension and steering systems for problems. My guess is either tires, or needing lubrication somewhere in the suspension.. (dont go by my guess alone :-p) It almost sounds like a ball joint needs grease, or a tie rod end isnt functioning as well as it once was. Tie rods and ball joints can cause any number of odd shimmies once they get old, and they are usually (in my experience) only VAGUELY "consistent" in any way shape or form.. my two bits.

couldnt get any gay-er.. thats a difficult circuit to try to design, I was hoping for an inversion of the resistance because that can be rigged up fairly easily.. how does it vary the voltage though, if not by a variable resistor?

this thread is up to over 1400 views....

Thread jack time. What is the difference between the signals the two sending units use?? Might there be some sort of way to hybridize them?? I ask because ultimately, in my shiny happy pipe dream world, I will find a vehicle to transfer my GL-10 aspects over to, and I had planned on the trip computer being one of them. I didnt realize that the digidash went hand in hand with the trip computer (my dads XT6 didnt have a digital dash, but the six is an obvious exception to a rule like this) and now I am brainstorming a way to have a functioning non digidash fuel gauge, yet still have the trip comp fully functional... so what is the difference? different resistance range, inverted resistance range, any clue??

The stereo, the cupholder, and a change bay thingy came out of a toyota corolla, ~97 or so... they were all three secured to each other by two metal brackets, one on either side. I had to heavily modify these brackets, to allow me to use them to join the stereo and cupholder together into one assembled unit, which I was able to bolt into the hole in the dash along with the black plastic cap that was the install kit. It was NOT an easy job; BUT I had never done anything quite so extreme as far as installing a radio before, and I managed to get it ALL together in a day; and that was WITH my trip computer control in the way. Things would have been much simpler without it. However, I wouldn't run out and get the cupholder and brackets out of a toyota based on this thread.. the cupholder, brackets, and "change bay" that I pulled out of the toyota looked to be manufactured in the same plant that my install kit was, so they were probably aftermarket parts themselves. In other words, I have no easy button to replicate this. It was an adventure and a struggle every step of the way, because I had assumed it would be easy and didn't think things through ahead of time. For that reason, I cannot really relate the details, and until I take it back apart to set it up proper (and wire the front speakers in) I have no photos to share, either. Sorry.

I fought a different fight; I put in a cupholder and retained my trip computer control pod. You will likely have to cut out a piece of metal bar inside the area where the stereo will go. As for how mine is mounted, most people have a DIN cage to use to mount the stereo. With one of these, you just bend back a couple of tabs to hold the cage to the faceplate, and yes.. That is all that holds the stereo in. However, I wound up using some bracketry from (i believe) a ~97? Toyota Corolla, securing the radio and the cupholder to each other, and then fastening that down to two of the original stereo tie in points. My install was tricky; and it is kinda of ghetto rigged right now because I need to tear it apart and put it back together one day when I have patience. (was pissed by the end of the day i installed it, LONG day.) You really *need* to run new speaker wires for either the front channel or the rear channel; your stereo will not work right with the stock speaker wiring because as was mentioned, the front and rear channels each share a common ground. Modern stereos will not work right wired like this, and you are asking to blow the amplifier in your deck for no good reason. you CAN use one pair of the stock wires, though.

Not offhand, BUT I do know that fusible links, regardless of manufacturer, are color coded. When the time comes for me to do the Z car, i was planning on checking the owners manual or FSM for color needed, and then a simple google search.. I have seen the info before in a million places, but when I checked my bookmarks I haven't got it in there. I know it is somewhere, though.. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-links.html might help, but seems to think that these colors are applicable to chryslers and not necessarily anything else.. good luck, man. I am beginning to think that maybe auto resetting circuit breakers, or even better manual reset circuit breakers, might be the best way to go.. but the maxi fuses look pretty cool and thats difficult to turn down.. So I do not know how I will go in the end. Lots of options out there, really. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask for advice or opinions on how you wind up wiring your Brumby back together.

replacing your timing belts is a great first job on the subaru. big big talking point, everyone has an opinion one way on whether to leave the covers off of the timing belts or to re install them. I won't get into the issues and arguments for either side, but if you know what you are doing, you wouldn't be the first to run with no covers. Sometimes they can be difficult to get off in one piece, and not having them on makes inspection or any future work in that area a much less labor-intense job. It is your choice, though; a simple search should yield plenty of debate to read that would bring up all points, and maybe even a horror story or two. Some cars run in environments where it is less of a risk, some cares might wind up in areas where you want them protected.

Judging from this response, you do NOT actually have a trip computer in your car; no buttons like Gloyale mentioned, no "trip computer" on your clock display?? then if, in fact, this module said trip computer on it, my bet is you didnt need it. Can't for the life of my figure out why its there though...

clutch is not hard to do yourself; the "big-seeming" jobs like clutch, or transmission swap, or even replacing one engine with another (identical) are all among the easier jobs to do on a car. All you need to do is put a jack under the transmission, remove the rear driveshaft, unbolt the tranny crossmember from the car, unbolt the transmission bellhousing from the engine, jack the trans up ever so slightly, pull it back away from the engine a little, and then let the jack down. If you don't have four tall jackstands then, yes, it is difficult to do.. otherwise the hard part lies in the muscles needed to reposition the tranny to reinstall. Just thought I would mention it; I was still a fledgling wrench-boob when I did the clutch in my Datsun, and it helped make a man out of me.

Thank you!!!!!! Will file that name for future avoidance.

I think the trip computer is one of the coolest parts of owning a GL-10. it IS superfluous though. Did any non GL-10s GET trip computers?? I know the XT-6 did, but I figured that all the 6's were "gl-10" by default.. I installed my stereo and kept the trip computer intact. It took an installation kit that I had to pay almost $30 for from crutchfield, but I also managed to put a cupholder in, too.

I officially protest all suggestions of using a nissan, unless youre talking about a newer FWD model. and a pox on any who say otherwise. :-p seriously, dont use a subaru... unless you are someone with six subarus in your yard, and were going to have this one hauled off, and can take the engine and trans out after it gets scrapped anyhow.. just please don't, as has been said there simmply arent enough left.

http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/fuse.php Maxi-fuses come in up to 100 amp ratings, and they also have even higher rated circuit breakers. These bits DO exist, but they aren't very common. a resettable circuit breaker might be best for the winch.. I am thinking about using circuit breakers to replace my fusible links rather than maxi-fuses. I have done a bit of research on how to fix this kind of problem.. research is ALL I have done on the Z in almost three years now. :mad: