daeron

When I have a chance to get it up on four jackstands, I will take a shot or two of the undercarriage. It looks fine. My chief fears are errant rocks, because i KNOW that the entire frame of the windshield must be swiss cheese.. The support at the edges gives the windshield most of its resistance against shattering from being hit by a rock. If the frame of the windshield is good, its strong. If it is compromised, then even a small rock at a low speed can shatter it, if it hits it right, and in the right spot. The rear glass has actually been jarred somewhat loose, to a point where i could press on one corner and raise it about an inch or so from its position... but I used some silicone glue to put it back in place. I know the silicone traps moisture and in time rusts stuff out.. i know its salt on the wounds.. but i had to get the thing to stay in there somehow. Yah, I know.. I got a big black hole in my roof though The sunroof is my FAVORITE part of the car. haven't used it in months though, come to think of it. Not since pizza toppers started going onto it, (I ran the power cord thru the sunroof) then we got into alot of rainy times.. anyhow maybe one day I shall visit, but I've many bridges to cross before that. As for all this "rust belt" talk, I'm hearing none of it. Cars rust here faster than anywhere else. Its getting hard to find just about anything small and japanese that might be rust-prone older than 1985 in the boneyards. VWs have all rotted away, old datsuns just fall apart.. I have seen ten year old nissan pickups (in 94) that were more wholly rusted than my car. Nothing old is rust-free down here, its just that the american iron tends to be made of alot more iron.... so it takes a few decades longer to rot. Just wait though. All of those Geos and Saturns are about to turn 20, and we get to see them (except for the exterior of the dent-proof doors, if its a saturn :-p) rot away, too

OKAY folks.. ive been absent for about two weeks, because i switched jobs and had a birthday, got to see Sir George Carlin in the meantime, AND I finally got my own digital camera. SO, here are my promised Rust Pictures. I have yet to see any sort of frame rot or anything fundamentally structural... but if anyone has EVER seen any sort of body rust like this, I want to hear about it. By the way... THIS CAR WAS ZIEBARTED!!!! Clicky for my photobucket album with all the pictures in it... but let me give a couple highlights here.. Driver's side: Passenger's side: Here is a view down into the hole on the passenger's side, that gives a decent view of the apparatus attached to the other end of the trunk lid/ gas tank door lever (well, trunk lid for us sedan and hatch owners) It isn't the greatest photograph, BUT it may help someone in need. You can see how I lashed the outer piece of the cable (the "insulator") which is the cable for the gas door, back together.. it had rent asunder right where it is held into the latch lever. Anyone need help fixing this can send me a PM. Here is the passenger's side bottom corner of the windshield.. The foto of the driver's side is blurrier, but its on the photobucket album, along with a few other shots. Now... Even though she IS a GL-10, and has the green digi-dash (which i hate) and a power sunroof, power windows, locks, variable speed intermittents, trip computer, and even FACTORY cruise control.... its a front wheeler, 3AT. Can anyone blame me for having a plan on driving this vehicle into the ground??? Of course, shes logged me over 40K in two calendar years, and only been legal and on the road for about 16 months out of that. Starter has quit, and an alternator... Replaced brakes all around, and rear bearings, the radiator rotted out, so I replaced it, i need HGs badly, and the auto doesnt want to shift into second until I hit 25MPH, when its DEAD cold (ie, hasnt been driven in over 6 hours) So, in other words... consumables go out at unpredictable intervals.. and the headgaskets just blow. The 3AT is fairly reliable, to a Point.... but mostly these things just rust. Sounds like my Datsun! Now if only I could find a d/r 5spd wagon to mongrelize all my GL-10 stuff into, I would be happy.

try turning on the turn signal while you (or your dad) has your face down under the dash.. this will cause the turn signal blinker to blink, and the relay will click. The turn signal flasher is right next to the hazard flasher. Thats how i found mine. As for replacing it, same as above.. unscrew the bracket to pull it down to where you can unplug the relay. My problem was with the turn signal flasher, and i used the hazards to locate the pair.. i never bothered screwing it back where it belonged, either. i had contorted my hands enough spending 3 hours trying to find it.. gee, the more I think the more i remember how many times i got mad and had to walk away from that one... until I thought to try using the other blinker :- ) Oh, and you should be able to buy a new one at pep boys/autozone/napa/who the fuji ever for under ten bucks or so.. but I would get the old one out first, and have it in hand when you walk in the store. And I somehow doubt any talk of flasher fluid was actually intended to be taken as an attempt to pull any wool over any eyes, just some good natured jackassery :-p We ain't what you call "normal" 'round these parts, y'see....

This is also how Nissan's NAP-Z engine works.. its an inline four cylinder, with 8 spark plugs.. it burns a second spark just after the exhaust valve opens, to burn off any excess vapors as they are being blown out. It helps cut down on emissions. pretty neat to know this is part of MSnS, i havent gotten too detailed in my research there yet.

I second that motion... that motor pulls strong and hard, and can actually haul an ABSURD amount of weight behind the truck.. as long as the tongue weight is within reason, and the hitch being used is heavy-duty.. solid vehicles. and as for this.. priceless

wait.. U R saying that I can run my s00b on h20?? l33tn3ss!! who do I send the $$ 2??? (on a related note, i've got a share in the brooklyn bridge i would like to sell.. anyone interested? name a star? how about real estate on mercury?? )

i thought the RX8 was a totally new motor, unrelated to the 13b in all ways.. BUT i have no data to support that. I just payed alot of attention to the vehicle when it was coming out.. rotary engines fascinate me, and always have.. but i havent owned one, myself. My dad had an 87 convertible rx7 a couple years ago, and it was great until the motor caught fire on my brother.. the JY replacement motor wasnt too hot, either.. but he had no $$$ to put into that thing, and was also low in the give-a-dam department at the time, too...

I use bookmark folders to set up a bookmarked search for the term "subaru" on all of the cities in florida on craigslist... and just periodically go to the bookmark menu, go to that folder, and select to open all those bookmarks in separate tabs.. I use mozilla firefox for my browser, but surely AOL, IE and company have something similar, dont they? Most of the time it is SUPER easy to skim past the newer soobs because the prices are four or five digits.. craigslist rocks :- )

I seem to average about 20K a year, whatever I am driving.. the soob, i have owned now for just over 2 calendar years.. BUT it spent at least 9 months unregistered and not driven, of that two years. That being said, it got 34K miles on it.. so really, i may be even higher. I _was_ doing more driving for both of my previous jobs than I am now.. the first one I worked all over the southern florida peninsula, and the second I delivered pizzas... BUT I drive alot anyhow, and have always averaged high.. (when i had a speedometer cable connected, :-p )

Ain't fair, pa!!!

i have an 87 GL-10 sedan that was ziebarted at some point. no clue when, ive put 40K on her in two years, total odometer is 143K, my brother had her for a couple years before me but i have no idea what the odometer was when he got it. Anyhow, as long as I have known this car (since like, 2000? maybe '01?) there have been large rust-holes at either bottom corner of the rear glass. Large enough to reach into and wiggle your fingers thru the speaker hole, waving at yourself from inside the car. Both corners of the trunk have rotted out, the drivers door is beginning to rust out at the bottom, the entire rear glass is loose (again, ive already glued it back in once...) and dont even ask me about my windshield... I am amazed every time I hear a bug hit it, that it doesnt shatter. thats how bad the rust is. I have never had any experience, nor has anyone in my family (to my knowledge) other than this vehicle.. and I am clueless as to where it may have lived before sunny south florida.. (don't forget we get ALOT of rain in the summer, and cars rust away here as fast as anywhere else.. i already cant find nissan 280ZXs in the junkyards here, if that can help you compare my rust-belt standing to yours) But from this, the one and only experience I have with them.. the only conclusion I can draw is that it doesnt work so hot. HOWEVER, one example makes damn poor statistics... for all I know someone ziebart'ed the car to try to curtail a rust problem.. I would imagine that if you sprayed that stuff OVER existing rust, it would probably be the WORST thing you could do. The moral of the story is, if you ziebart it.... make sure its ALL clean and ready to be done. I guess thats the moral anyhow. I just started by telling you my story, and suddenly had a hypothesis for why my car is so rusted out, despite the treatment.... Live and Learn!

All I really had to say, was just relax. It was a bit more complex than that, though.... Thanks for the positive reception of my remark. EDIT and that is such a common oops-ing of the spelling of my nickname, but it irks me so!! im sorry to sound off on it, but ive never had a chance to, since the name stays within the confines of the internet... obviously an innocent error, but for some reason seeing it misspelled that way has always ticked me off. The name came from JRR Tolkien (a cunning linguist and philologer) and I pronounce it "day-ron" and that spelling totally trashes that, "deer-on." but enough with the randomness. I guess i figured since we all had our soapboxes out anyhow, I would holler that out before I humbly stepped down and shut up :-p

OK.. now, lets go with this. 91Loyale, I read your comment too... He has not slandered a single soul on this board. He has been VILIFIED by many, but he has been patient and at LEAST dignified, if not entirely respectful (ie, ignoring peoples comment) at all turns! He has stated a disagreement with points or facts that GD has brought up. As for "telling everyone to disregard rational thought," All he ever says is, in essence, "I am going to disregard rational thought." Granted, it is a poor example to set, and others may follow. But its jumping off a bridge for Pete's sake... JUST because he does it, doesn't mean others are going to, and it *certainly* doesn't mean that he is making a conscious effort to thwart reason and logic, which is the cause you are martyring yourselves for!! I REALLY LIKE ALL OF YOU, even the ones *I* think may be a bit too heavy in the "jerk" column. I maintain a regular dialogue with GD regarding a number of Ideas I have, and (i would like to THINK, at least) he and I see pretty well eye-to-eye on alot of things.. I can appreciate a good ribbing when someone is in the wrong as much as anyone... but there is no need to prop yourself up on a soapbox and speak to the crowd denouncing a fool. All that does is make yourself look equally foolish. And BGD: I am batting on your side here... I *sincerely* hope you read my comments and recognize that. At the same time, you know alot. Alot of obscure information, at that. One of the wisest things I ever read on this board was your comment about "clean" power to the ECU, which in itself sparked a bit of a debate about the power supplied by a UPS.. but I dont want to open that back up. The biggest problem with your methodologies, to me, seems to be your approach towards your ideas. Scientific method dictates that when a theory (idea) is formed, you do NOT try to support it. you try to tear it apart, DISprove it sixteen ways to sunday, and once it FAILS to be DISproven, then you have a law. Having an idea, and rationalizing it, is BAD method.... you cannot try to think of reasons why this thoery may be true, you must think of ways to test this theory and prove it FALSE. I like to think that is the point that everyone wants to make to you. It is CERTAINLY the ideology that you espouse, and it is the ideology that makes everyone here this upset at you, and your "theories." I say "you espouse this ideology" because that is the conclusion to be drawn from my interpretation of your posts, as a body. now gentlemen, please.. how hard was it to tone down the sarcasm a bit? I appreciate it. Schoolyard Bullies belong there, most of us left them behind a decade or two ago, and I think most of us prefer it that way. No offense has been intended to anyone or anything in the composition of this forum post.

Yes. Clarification here, please.. if pulling the plug wire on #3 made NO difference in the way the engine ran (as I believe you stated in a later post than the one Sister7 quoted) then you need to STEP BACK... and recognize the one thing that information tells you. You have an issue on your #3 cylinder. If you pull the spark plug wire off, and there is NO difference, then that would indicate the cylinder isnt firing at all. (or rarely) That does NOT mean you have a fuel injector issue, although other pieces of information point towards that... you don't have any bubbling into your coolant overflow when you have the engine running, or when you cut the car off, do you? My overlying point is, a compression check would probably also behoove. Remember, three things to make an engine run.. spark, fuel, compression. Seeing that wou already have purchased your multimeter and noid light, go to town.. Chances are pretty good that fuel delivery is your problem... BUT if you seem to run into a wall there, remember.. All that you know, from the data that you have collected, is that cylinder #3 is not running. That is the only data the car has given you, thus far. I don't know if that was any help, BUT i still figured it was worth saying. Oh, and just in case.. if you pull the wire off of cylinder #3 and you DO get a change, then yah.. sister7 was right.. #3 is the only cylinder WITHOUT a problem.....

how is he trying to gather a following?!??? how?

THANK YOU!!!! for the love of fuji, you people ALL NEED TO GROW UP!!!! Given: 1. Many of us feel that BGD's ideas/statements/theories are crackpot 2. No one wants to see the spread of misinformation 3. All here wish for a peaceful environment 4. All here are (ostensibly) adults, since little boys and girls arent allowed to hold the car keys THEN those of us who disagree with BGD's thoughts have a responsibility to behave with an ounce of bloody respect and dignity, AT LEAST FOR YOURSELVES! This means NOT picking him apart and using INSULTS about his language usage, disguised as fallacious arguments "proving" that he is some no nothing bozo!!!! This means acting like an ADULT, and treating the rest of the people on the forum as such! I dont think adding paint is going to stiffen my chassis, but that doesnt make me feel an irresistable urge to expend MY time and effort on concocting cleverly worded slander of him JUST to stroke my own little EGO!! Please, people! Most of you obviously seem to think you have brains in your respective heads. Why can't that brain excercise a modicum of self-control and just effing RELAX!!!! This man did not insult anyone, in any way, other than ignoring your advice. RETURN THE FAVOR AND IGNORE HIM! At the very least, please refrain from turning a thread started by him into an open forum on what a dipstick he may or may not be! If you feel compelled to make a post stating that he is patently wrong, then do so.. but don't turn the whole thread into a treatise on how much YOU think you are better than him!!! One post should be sufficient for that. Anything more is uncivilized, immature, unnecessary, hateful, and just plain rude. Where are we, New York City?!?????

At my local Family Dollar stores, they sell (during summertime) a 20 dollar version of that type of canopy.. its pretty flimsy, but if you can tie ropes on it and stake it down proper, like a tent, it is TOTALLY worth it... We have one in our backyard that gets replaced every couple years.. and we reinforced it with some 3/4" electrical conduit sunk in cement in the ground at 3 of the 4 corners... its solid as a rock. Buy a new one as needed to replace the canvas, and you are set :- ) The ones WITHOUT screen enclosure are 20 bucks (sometimes less!) and they have one with a screen enclosure thats like $30-40 i think.. UBER cheap, and disposable, in the worst case scenario. oh and.... heh, thats one.... :-p and, back on topic, yah.. wood blocks under jackstands, and a piece of carpeting/plywood/carpeted plywood. World O' good.

he said that the guy needs to find a 2wd NA to snag the front off of to repair his car with..... did you read his post?

YAY, Hooray!!! Magic Wires are always fun to find..... congrats, this was a tricky one.

the high speed has no resistor in the circuit, so if high speed is still not high enough, then the resistor block is not your fundamental problem. If the fan is blowing too slow it is possible that there is a blockage somewhere in the plumbing associated, and from what I hear it isnt too difficult to pull it apart and inspect. check the similar threads feature at the bottom of this page once I post and see if there are any threads pop up there about people finding mouse nests, all sorts of other critters, and just plain leaf/tree debris in their heater boxes..

most of us here in EA82 land tend to run high-test, but the rule of thumb is that you should run the lowest octane fuel your engine will tolerate without pinging. In other words, if she runs fine on 87 octane, then she IS fine on 87 octane. Unfortuantely, this also means that you run 87 octane, and your engine develops a problem, you need to keep the possibility of needing higher octane fuel in mind.

bingo, VERY VERY common alternator plug..

bgd: do you have a copy of the HTKYSA? it breaks down wheel wobbles and rear suspension issues, and how to pinpoint them, very well..... is it possible that your noise is unrelated to the wobble? because the noise might almost be gearbox noise, either from the diff or the trans, and if that were the case then your wobble could likely be brake-related... and the noise could be relieved by renewing the gear oil... just a couple thoughts, I'm probably wrong

Permatex has an excellent radiator/block flush, if you want to go the retail product route instead of grandma's engine flush.... but I am digging the kitchen-ingredient idea... Maybe an alternation between a baking soda flush, thorough water flush, and a vinegar flush, and who knows, throw the permatex stuff in too? Anyhow, to answer your question, I have used the permatex stuff with excellent results in many different engines. It is my flush of choice. Until reading this thread.... Now, we shall see.

you should go to the USMB and read the procedure for checking codes.. both those stored in memory, and put it in the diagnostic mode as well. This can (somehow, i must profess ignorance as to "how" it works) indicate faults in certain components (OR their wiring circuit!) that would not cause the computer to turn the CEL on. Also, the ECU, when it encounters "too many" problems, goes into a "limp mode," which is what sounds like what happened when your CEL DID come on, and it ran well... If you would like, I have two pdf files that are, between them, a sizeable chunk of the FSM.. its all broken down in there, how to do it, why to do it, and what youre doing... its well worth doing, just as a "used-car tuneup" procedure, even if there are no apparent problems. PM me your email address, and let me know if you ccan take 10 megs attached to one email, or if i need to send the two files in separate emails. Somebody has it posted on their webpage for download, but i cant remember who and I wouldnt be entirely comfortable linking to their page, and causing them traffic anyhow.. but lots of us have it. It can be helpful, and it can be frustratingly not applicable to your vehicle.. but this part is universal, as are most of the sections covered.