porcupine73

For the idle issue maybe it has a vacuum leak? cars101.com says for '91 Legacy, the turbo (sedan) was the only level with AWD, and manual trans was not available. Doesn't say anything about the LSD... http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html

Simple propane or mapp is nice for fasteners. Mapp burns a little hotter as it has some propodiene or something added to the propane. The kind with the rubber hose is nice because it is easier to manipulate the torch end, although it is easy to tip the cylinder over. For cutting you'd need like oxygen+acetylene or maybe oxygen+mapp.

Hi. If you're not noticing any issues and there are no vacuum leaks, I wouldn't worry about the reading being below what the Haynes manual says. I didn't see a spec for that value off hand in the factory service manual. Here's an article from EndWrench about Subaru MAF's: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWMAFAug05.pdf Another possibility is if you can locate another MAF somehow, junkyard, etc., and compare to see what it reads, or maybe hook up your reader to another similar Subaru and see what it is reading. Those plastic contraptions (someone has called them donkywongles in a recent thread about it) on the intake are to tune the intake to reduce intake noise and possibly induce Helmholtz resonance.

The fix could hold. JB weld type stuff works great in cool static applications. It can work in warm/hot situations with vibration if the load on it isn't too strong. It sounds like you prepped the area well. You might go over the epoxy with some copper rtv or ultragrey or something like that as an added layer of protection.

I think you use a prybar and see if the trans has any freeplay/looseness near the mount? Some parts just a shakedown by hand will reveal looseness.

Is it using the 2.2L's ECU?

Having good results so far with my MWE axle. My axle nut came right off with an air impact wrench. It's almost like it wasn't tight enough because it loosened in just a few beats. Though I did heat it with a torch first, maybe that's why....

Ok sounds like lack of maintenance isn't the issue. The issues I've had so far on '00obw is a fractured front sway bar (has happened on many '00 outbacks) and a torn inner RH cv joint boot and the exhaust donut before the resonator rusted out. It's got 117k miles on it, but I've only had it since 96k miles. I bought it about 2-1/2 years ago. No signs of HG issue yet and they haven't yet been replaced. The trans does take a second to go to drive when it's cold out, that's another not uncommon issue on some '99 and '00s.

Well the HG thing is a known potential issue on these years so that failure is understandable. Not sure about the clearcoat issue though I think I have heard of that a few times. Haven't heard of many steering racks failing so that one is kind of odd. I'm sure you already know the common causes of torque bind.

Was this vehicle purchased new or used?

The flat tow is fine if it is an MT. AT's should not be towed with any wheels on the ground. If you towed it slowly for that short a distance it may be OK. Ideally if the engine still runs I'd let it idle in neutral, that way the fluid still circulates and everything.

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Hm..yes the regreasing. I have some pulleys that don't have a lot of freeplay, and turn fairly smoothly, but they are a little raspy when turning, like you can sort of 'feel' the bearings turning. They're not squeaky. Do you think these would be good candidates for regreasing?

There is a 2.2L article on endwrench.com that has a pic of the roller style, but I didn't see a pic of the solid style in there....

I think they would still replace it under the recall. IIRC that was a NHTSA recall as it could result in the vehicle dying while driving, something about some brush or wire coming loose at high rpm operation, so they don't have much choice. They might give a little grief about not having the original OEM core to return though.

Will it start if you hold the throttle say 1/4 or so open?

Anyone have the endwrench article for HG prep cleaning? I just can't seem to find it... haha

If you specifically got #2 and #4 misfire codes, which I think would be P0302 and P0304, then maybe try NGK spark plugs with OEM spark plug wires (not plug wires from an auto parts store). Yes, these are probably the emissions/inspection monitors. There are about 7 of these systems. The longest to set seems to be the evap system. It can take a number of trips over a number of miles to get them all to set to 'ready'. When you get or clear a CEL/MIL or disconnect the battery, the monitors all go back to not ready. There's some info on endwrench.com about it. If you have a reasonable scan tool, it will tell you the status of each I/M. Also if the CEL/MIL is presently on you will probably not pass inspection either, at least that's how it is in NY.

Depends what you're looking for. Top of the line would be something like a rebuild from ccrengines Used/non already rebuilt maybe $50 on up. Depends what mileage, condition, etc, you want. If you get it locally from a salvage you pull it yard would probably be cheapest. You can also get them on eBay, car-part.com, etc, but then shipping adds to the cost. For the '96MY you might be able to pick up an entire vehicle or front clip for not too much.

Those ignition timing values you mentioned sounds just like what I see in my '96 Legacy 2.2L (using scangauge). Are you having other issues leading you to be suspicious of the MAF, or are you just wondering since you're reading a value lower than what Haynes says the spec is?

Someone just posted a pretty detailed writeup at http://www.centralohiosubarus.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3991&hl=

Since you already ordered the new knock sensor, I would just go ahead and install it. The mating surface between the sensor and block needs to be clean and the bolt specifies a particular torque. If the knock sensor became unplugged, the ECU was retarding timing to the maximum as a failsafe. Reduced power and fuel economy would be noticed.

So what code(s) did you read?

That's good info. I ordered OEM the black (double row) and orange (single row) idlers. and rec'd two double row ones, which do look more robust.

How long did it take to compress the pin? The OEM tensioner costs less than the aftermarket.