porcupine73

Dude I think you're right. I keep it's charge topped off every couple months. I'm starting to notice slower cranking with my existing battery of unknown age so maybe this is the time to put this sweet yellow top into service!

Doh! I guess I might be in for a surpise when I try to install that Optima then. I've just been carrying it as a spare for the last two years.

Wow plus you have the XT so that thing must really haul!

Wow that's a great story! As I have told others previously, resistance was futile - you have been assimilated.

Actually ericm, some post you listed about using blue loctite was the reason I did it. Thanks for the tip!

Congratulations, sounds like a good buy. Resistance was futile; you have been assimilated.

The recommended torque depends on engine phase. For my '00obw it said to put oil on the threads first, torque to like 33 ft*lbs(f) first, then torque to like 138 ft*lbs or something making sure it turns at least 65 degrees. I used blue loctite instead of oil; 5000 miles so far no loosey. Anyway, there are stories out there about the crank pulley bolt loosening so it's not a bad thing to make sure is done right and maybe checked after some thousand miles.

Yes Haynes isn't high on my list for accuracy.

Yah I think Optima doesn't make the exact group size for Subaru. But if you know the measurements you can go with I think it is group 34. It's a little longer but I'm pretty sure it'll fit. I bought it but didn't install it yet.

Maybe a dumb question, but are you absolutely sure the battery in the new remote is installed and fresh?

Hm...all I could really find was amsoil saying "Subaru ATF, Part No. K0140Y0700". If a Dexron III fluid is acceptable, I'd just go with a quality synthetic such as redline, schaefferoil, amsoil, mobil1, specialtyforumulations. For the differentials, I'd go with a synthetic gear oil; the manufacturers listed make nice ones. Optionally you could avoid mobil1 for the gear oils as they've had 'issues' in the MT's but I think it was ok in diffs.

Wow you got that for $500 bucks! Looks like a deal. Yes, you know you're a Subaru owner when you're upset the roads are plowed.

I don't think that's true. On both my '96 and '00 the knock sensor is relatively easily accessible. It's basically below the throttle cables.

Dang for that price you could probably get a CCR (Colorodo Component Rebuilders) engine and just have it put in (seeing as how the mechanic has the engine out already). Definitely check the radiator for obstructions too.

Here's a pic of that 24" Harbor Freight chain wrench in use on the crank pulley on my '00obw. I'll be doing my '96 next and I think I'll try the 3/8" extension in the flexplate method. I don't like to use the chain wrench on the cam sprockets as I think it slightly deformed it. Also, it is fairly important to get the right torque on the crank pulley bolt when tightening. There are a number of posts showing how the crank keyway got all hogged out because the bolt loosened.

Check how low your coolant is now. If it's not terribly low you may be able to refill and make it home. Keep an eye on the temp gauge for any unusual acitivty. Keep extra coolant&water with you. The thermostat housing on my '96 and '00 is black plastic. Maybe you have an aftermarket part that is metal. Anyway, the thing the thermostat housing's bolts connect to is the water pump.

In addition to the good things already mentioned, make sure the FWD fuse is not installed and check for torque bind.

Yep that elbow piece you describe sounds like the thermostat housing. It is plastic. It is held onto the water pump by two bolts. There is a rubbery gasket that fits around the thermostat. If you see coolant leaking out between the water pump and thermostat housing, this gasket may be deteriorated. Or at some point it may have been reused instead of putting on a new one. Or the bolts holding the thermostat housing to the water pump may be loose. Or the housing may be cracked. Or coolant may be leaking past the water pump bearing, out the timing belt cover, and down to the thermostat housing. Anyway, the housing is really easy to remove (just those two bolts). And if you're not sure when the coolant was last changed, this is a perfect opportunity to change the coolant and thermostat and gasket. The OEM part is suggested for thermostat.

Good purchase megalomando! I imagine if you asked for an o2 sensor at radio shack they would have no idea what you were talking about but would want to sell you some batteries and a cellular phone subscription anyway.

Do they happen to have a part number on them or is it just a big bag of parts? The o-ring I used was 10991AA001 but this was on an '00.

I can't see how a little sealant or as mentioned grease on it to hold it in place while the pump is fitted is going to hurt. The biggest problem I had was yes the o-ring is a little loose in the groove. On the first attempt it fell out and I didn't notice it. Fortunately I pulled the pump off to double check and saw it. A bit of grease or something to hold it in place would help.

Have you checked the booster for proper operation? I don't remember the entire procedure off hand. I couldn't find it off hand and I don't remember what vehicles it covered, but there is a TSB for some vehicles having gone out with the wrong master cylinder. The symptom was lower than normal pedal feel but supposedly that was the only issue; no impact on brake functionality.

You can't go wrong with one of the NGK plugs listed in your manual.

That timing belt interval is probably 60k miles. The cal spec belt (kevlar aramid) might have been 105k miles. That's a 2.2L right? That should be the non-interference so if the belt breaks no damage, just stranded. You should be able to take off the LH (driver) outer belt cover easily for inspection. To remove the RH timing outer cover you have to get the crank pulley off first. Yes, in the climate control center it is backlit. However the bulbs blowing out is very very common. There are threads on how to fix it and even put in LED's instead of incandescent for longer life.

Hi. I used a four wire Bosch universal before; it shows in the instructions how to wire it up. It took about 15 minutes to just make sure I knew which wire was which. However, it seems that the front OEM O2 sensor is highly recommended. The rear aftermarket is OK. Especially on the '01 as that may have the six wire wideband front O2 sensor. I currently have 20k miles on a Bosch universal front o2 in my '96 legacy without issues.