Prospeeder

if its burning oil at start up, it would be a good idea to remove all the valves and put in new valve stem seals, but not its not nessesary. i did a head replacment in my Mazda 323 and it wasnt hard and cost me like 120$ total, including the reman head.

i belive its around 80-90 ft lbs, but I just took a 4 foot pipe on a 1/2 in ratchet and tightend it up real good, worked out well, its still tight and on there

well cam seals i would just get at the parts store, who cares, i got my Main seal from the parts store and it has sealed fine. go cheap if its nessesary and budget doesnt allow. Oh dont forget oil and coolant. Iv herd those stupid exhaust manifold bolts strip out easy, so be carful, along with the intake bolts, breakage on those are Easy. so be prepared, as they are dealer only bolts

umm did you do it on dry pavemnt, or what, try doing it on like loose gravel or somthing to test, pavement puts ALOT of stress on the system and makes it near impossible to get out of 4WD because it all binds up on the dry pavment and makes noises and wont come out.

You have the timing belt covers? it might have busted some sort of connector or ground around that area. also those timing belts "could" have skipped some teeth or sheered some teeth of the belts somehow.

ha i got mine out of a junkyard car with no windsheld, or doors, moss growing inside, and i had the resitor sitting in the back window sliding around for like 2-3 days and i put it in and it works great, been about 3 months

if some1 wants this thing let me know, i have no use for it now, its not worth it.

I have an 86 Turbo w/ Dual range 4WD 5 speed, and its got about 261k on it and it goes in every gear fine, and is only alittle notchey and grinds rarley. from what i know its original

That thing is a thermosensor of some sort, that limits the ammount of vacuum that goes to the distributor, without it, the car will run like crap when its cold, and well when warm.

wow, nice, i got it from Caboobaroo for 25$ because my old one had the thermostat housing was all messed up, the egr valve threads for the pipe were messed up also, so i just was gonna get another manifold. I told it him it was for an 86 Turbo, sheesh, great, i guess ill just deal will it and use my current manifold over again.

oK im swapping a manifold off another Turbo, NON spider intake car onto mine, well i get it, thinking it would be the same, no.... its got the brake booster inlet on the oposide side, theres some Huge switch that has 3 lines running to it threaded on the back of my original the old one doesnt have, along with some nipple directly in front of the throttle body mine doesnt have, and on the throttle body, on the backside, the new one has 2 and the old one has 3, wich the missing one i traced goes back to one of the lines on that odd switch with the 3 lines. Mines an 86, i have no clue what year this ones from, but newers my guess, what do i do??? i have to get this car running soon.

oh those blazer pumps are EXSPENSIVE! and a pain in the rump roast.

did you check the relay under the passenger seat, and its grounds and stuff under there, they corrode easily being by the door/seat. ALso the switches go bad and cause windows not to work, did you open them up and clean them up? There are no circuit breakers or anything, just 1 fuse

oh i forgot that they switched to the 4EAT then for the turbos.

probably normal engine wear over the years you suddenly magnitized, i wouldnt be THAT worried. how many miles are on this thing?

I would just replace the radiator, waterpump, timing belts, and possible reseal the oil pump if the lifters are making lots of noise. I wouldnt worry about headgaskets unless its gobbling coolant and burning it or overheating badly for no reason. Also make sure that Slushbox automatic isnt eating up its governor gear and not shifting and stuff, iv read those transmissions are not the most reliable

oh, so heres a question, do i put the very end of the cable on the pedal assembly, then put it up on its large stud, then try and put the bracket/metal cable part onto its mounting point with the 2 bolts? or is the end of the cable go on after that? ( u know the part with the pin that holds it on)

who ever said that they wouldnt want to wear a seatbelt in a side impact, thats stupid! if you were in the drivers seat, and u got slammed into on the drivers side, the car would go flying away from the impact, correct? so if your not belted down, you go towards the impact because your still stationary. thus slamming into the imact area casuing alot more injury. if your belted you stay put your much better off for sure. Also same goes, if your on the drivers side and u get hit on the passenger side, guess where you fly to, all the way accross the car into the impact area causing injuries. I dunno if these cars are safe or not, i dont feel unsafe when i drive it or anything tho.

uhh no one?

I went ahead to replace the clutch cable. got it off, and all, and to get it off i had to take off the pedal assembly via the 14 mm bolt right, off came that braket, and also that return spring and its bracket. Now i cant get this thing back together!!! Its at my school autoshop and i need mabye a picutre for abit of help. Im pretty sure i know how it goes, but how the HELL do i manage to put the cable end on with its pin, then put the pedal assembly up, then that braket that has the return spring, along with the part of the cable that has to bolt holes, that go through the braket also, try to line it up, and screw it all in, i mean theres GOT to be an easier way!!! Im having ALOT of trouble, any help its greatly appreaciated also does it rout under or over the steering shaft?

the first time i did it, it broke a bolt, that time i used antisieze so this time they came out fine.

oh i wont do that then!

http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ if you know the part number its helpful, theres a few other online dealers too go to the catalog, and then engine, clylinder head and valves, click the next one, and then headgasket, 25$ for it

know exactly what size it it, there too small for anything my shop has.

besides a wire wheel what can i use, like a 600 grit sanding block?