Prospeeder

yea i suppose im not gonna use the stuff, but it wont start now, so that makes it difficult to sell. The filthy piece of ************ just starts, sputters misfires backfires and shorty dies. pressing the gas makes it die faster. Ohh i hate this car, i never want a subaru again, im going to obvously have to take a loss on the car and get it the hell out of my life. And excuse me, i took good care of this worthless peice of ************, i brought it back, and it has been nothing but an ungratful *************** that eats my pocket and has me walking more than driving. I washed it, never drove it really hard, never did anything bad to it, let it warm up in the mornings, made sure it had the oil topped up, if somthing broke, i fixed it.

well ill get some 3/8 hose, and loop it around the heater core feed and return so none get into the core. This car is not worth my time any longer, i have no desire to fix it. It can besome1 elses problem. i just want back what i got into it.

ha well im gonna try some of that Bar's Headgasket and Head crack repair. Its worth a shot, if it stops even for a month i dont care, as long as i get to sell it. It seems like most failures/clogs are from people not flushing the antifreeze out of the system, wich chemicly reacts with the stop leaks silicit forumula or somthing and it gels the antifreeze. ill be out 4$ + coolant if it doesnt work.

my engine never had washers for the intake manifold. It could have been coolant inside a cylinder and it wont compress.

hmmmm that could be possible, anyway to even check that short of taking it off?

we are going to do a Carbon Monoxide test for the coolant monday too sniff out a headgasket. No i did not replace the headgaskets ever in this car.

wait, im talking about intake manifold gaskets, sorry! Shoulda specified.

not to mention the ports then wouldnt line up and coolant would pour out into the intake.

Uhg im so dissapointed. I put brand new, DEALER gaskets, wire wheeled the surfaces, put the gaskets on, torqued them to exactly 15.9 Foot lbs each, and double check them all. Put it all back together, started it up, ran well, drove it two days no cooalnt burning or anything, ran well. Now its stumbling and stuttering at idle, seems down on power, and it get poofs of coolant smoke from a warm start and i can smell it when restarting it. I dont know what i did wrong!!! What the hell! Do i need to retorque the gaskets or what! Im seriously going to sell this thing in a few weeks, im sick and TIRED of working on it, ESPECIALLY when this is my 3rd time doing this. Me=Pissed. I want my mazda back....

Also Out of wack Throttle positioning sensors for FI cars can murder gas mileage, mine, i adjusted way too far forward and it seriously used 1/8 of a tank of gas going 10 miles, i put it back just to the point where it would get dead spots accelerating, and put it forward a tiny bit, the car performs well and gets fairly decent mileage.

Ok, sounds like it will be ok, my current seats have that vynal and its highly neglected, cracked, ripped, and the whole seats are stained badly, and torn up, stuffing coming out the back, springs poking my back, no cusion on the driver seat its so broken down, so yea i need seats quick! Thanks for the imput everyone. How much should a full set of seats cost me, this is a fairly inexpensive junkyard. Oh did i mention i completly fixed my car, new intake gaskets and clutch cable, shifts easy and smooth, along with no coolant loss/smell/leaking/burning. I Love it, im so happy.

check all your vacuum lines running around under the dash, one may have broke or ripped, or popped off

Do you think it would look ok if i got a full set of Light grey seats out of some Loyal/GL sedan? I found some at a junkyard, They had no rips, stains, and wernt broken down. Do you think they would look really out of place? Both the front and rears would match.

i doubt their hard to work on, but i would be VERY worried about the Transmission if its an automatic. They should get near 40mpg

im gonna take a long shot and guess he ment the hub stripped out but the axles ok?

yea and those Hybrid cars, all thier batterys hardcore pollute the planet when it comes time to dispose of those. belive it or not, its actually WORSE for the enviroment to recylce than it is just to throw stuff away...

My trans doesnt like to go into 1st unless your going under 10, it somtimes grinds, not too often. In my mazda i would put it in 1st at like 25 coming to a stop to be ready, but it was my first stick, and if i had no music on i could hear the transmission wind up really fast and high putting into first, i could imagine how hard that was on the syncros.

1986 Subaru RX EA82 Turbo, Engine with about 30k on it. Cold idle is about 70, warm idle is about 20, and 3k at 60 is about 40-50. and my Lifters are quiet. Max iv seen driving it cold and it hit about 80

i always thought my EA82T had quite alot of torque for it being turbo. My little N/A Mazda 323 was mush slower from a stop.

cranks just like mine did when the timing belt broke.

also with the passenger side belt only broke, the car can actually still run! Just not well at all. What you said originally is very confusing....the starter and alternator makes noise but the engine doesnt turn....huh

mine was the water would actually Boil from getting too hot, from the sounds of it you defintly have a head/gasket problem. was it running hot before it blew? normals below 1/2 way on the temp. It might be easier just to find out the problem and get it done, mabye do it yourself. But really for the swap, just swap wiring harnesses and engines and you should be ok. You could find a Turbo cars wiring harness, it would be shorter.....but im not 100% sure the N/A and turbo harnesses interchange. But you have to take out the WHOLE dash and make sure you know where everything goes and be able to trouble shoot stuff that doesnt work. Search for it, i know i read how a guy swapped a SPFI for a turbo MPFI motor and it didnt go well

my Subaru RX 1.8 Turbo would bubble into the radiator when warm and it would run hot (3/4 or abit more) but not overheat, it turned out to be the radiator. I got a brand new one for 90$ and the car runs 1/3 of the gauge and it hasnt bubbles since.

you could just drive that XT around and fix your Loyal, it shouldnt be blowing headgaskets like that for no reason. unless your overheating it.... or sustaining higher temps (like 3/4 of the gauge or more) constantly. You may be due for a new radiator or waterpump. Are you making sure to have the headbolts torqued down to the right specs and everything? whos doing it? a shop? if your taking it to the same shop, id either get a different shop to do it or do it yourself

u know, some shops will give you credit on your recharge if you bring back a full thinkg of R12, its like gold, and they may even PAY you for it, because they can reuse it.