Prospeeder

thats cool, do the side decals say anything? I cant tell.

you know, u coulda just said, yea it fits, and this whole thread would be done with, but you have to drag it out and make it harder for people who do search to find answers, i cant STAND it when i find a thread in a search, and all it says in it is, Oh, just go search 10 times and thats it, and i try to search, and find mostly crap that has nothing to do with what im searching for

well, this is more like 300 or so, and its really rough because of how low it is. I guess its not hurting anything, but id like to solve it also if i over ajdust the TPS woudl that cause some really poor gas mileage?

yea my covers are gone, no problems yet, the skid plate keeps unwanted things liek snow packs out of the engine bay. It took me like 20 minutes with no covers to re tension my belts. With covers it took me like an entire weekend to do the timing belts

hmmm i may do this, can you just take the clutch fan out and put the little nuts on the pully to hold it on, wont cause any problems, hmmm, i might take it out then and put my elecctric fan in and use that thermosensor.

These cars are pretty easy to regain control. i was sliding on compact snow and ice today almost sideways, i had it in 4HI and i pushed the clutch in, let off the brakes, put it in 2nd, and let out the clutch and the car instantly corrected itself and i had full control. although i have 4 pretty burley snow tires with studs

so the AAV does control idle at cold and warm idle? does it just unscrew or is there spings and what not under it, is it just a simple valve, the conector has some MAJOR corosion, lol, whoops, ill clean that or try, and see if that helps, and take it apart and clean it, what should i clean it with? brake cleaner? or carb cleaner? unplugging it makes no difference to the idle at all wich is the wierd thing....maybe its not opening at all or energizing (BTW i appreaciate the help, i almost got this bad boy running good)

ok why would it be a compression problem, it ONLY does it when i drive the car, turn it off, and restart it, it idles really really low and stumbles, and if you drive it abit the idle stays a steady 900 now that i adjusted the idle, and adjusting the TPS got rid of ALL of my dead spots and made acceleration much more responsive it pivots and adjusts, so i think its only EA81T's or 85s or somthing). It now only does the low idle when u turn off the car and turn it back on. Driveing makes it clear up. What the heck do i check now?? (ITS NOT the head gaskets, OK? the engine has less than 30k on it and hasnt been overheated, doesnt burn coolant, doesnt overheat, or even get past 1/3 of the gauge, no bubbles, nothing! has great acceleration)

no i actually didnt have access to a grinder to make some nut perfectly ground down so it fit, and tapping a larger bolt in worked just fine

ah alright, ill try repositioning it then, and see what that does. When you did it, did you just move it, go for a drive, move it again, go for a drive? or could you tell by the idle?

whats to "try" about it, like replace it, i have no MPFIs anywhere in the junkyards here, and im not sure on how to adjust it or anything seen somthing in the USRM about a loose mis adjusted throttle cable causing low idle possibly, mine has ALOT of slack, maybe this could cause this, mabye tightneing it up till the idle is better? cause the cold idle is controled by the computer. Ill try that tomarrow

Grrrr some1 has to have an idea where i should start. I got everything back together, and the low idle problem is WORSE now. Now it starts, and then the fast idle kicks down to like 600, then it will slowly decrease the RPMs till its at like 200 and it will stumble badly. Good news, the intake backfires gone tho, and it revs fast. It also pulls harder through its powerband, but i notice sudden losses of power then it comes right back, its very odd. Im not sure if i should be looking at more vacuum leaks (wich im pretty sure there arnt any now) oxygen sensor? No Check engine light, the Coolant temp sensor has the wires directly solderd on. Do codes show up w/o check engine lights also? ill check for codes tomarrow if so

Alright! I got it, My dad used the dremel and sanded down the bad threads, and kept the good ones, and the thing went in and threaded right up and seated. But the knock sensor wires broke off, LOL one thing after another, but they might have been causing some major problems with driving, only like 1-2 strands of wire were holding them on at the base, and they finally broke, so im gonna put new wiring for it. Thanks for the help everyone!

well cutting off the thin sheet metal roofing wont make much of a difference, compared to heavy plastic and foam peices and the seats and what not

cutting the roof would be kinda stupid, thats part of the unibodies structual support, you cut it off, thats alot of flexing and youll have some problems, iv herd of people making convertables and not adding support and thier windshields popping out from the twisting of the chassis. Its not even gonna save you much of any wieght, stick with gutting the entire interior, thats alot of wieght right there.

i have the tire place do it for me, its free to change wheels or rotate tires

ha anyone gonna send me a manifold, lol..... no yards here have turbos so you do think i can just self correct it, its the very first threads that are messed up. i can try

it is slightly larger, with coarser threads. Thanks for the suggestions, its stripped at the manifold, not the head btw, and the manifolds off, so does the other end of the pipe just go to an exhaust pipe, manifold, or actually the head? Cause if its just out in the open easy to take off the head or what ever then i can try that way. is the screw driver idea ok? like do i start in a good thread and just carfully follow the thread and follow it reshaping the threads sorta deal

oh maybe, it seems to be a more coarse thread than the plugs, but im thinkin about the same in diameter, should i try and see if the plug matches up or threads in? if anyone has any ideas lemmie know, espeically on the size of chaser i should get. Im thinkin like 18? or is that really big, maybe 14?

i dunno where to find a chaser that large, i went to the parts store and they said they didnt have anything nearly that big

also they are not damaged much, looks like only a small portion are messed up, so would chasing the threads possibly work, its only the begining thats damaged, not deep into it. So what size chaser would i use??

ok the threads are crossed, what do i do..... and if i do have to retap it or helicoil it what size is the thread and everything?? Im not too enthused, i feel stupid for crossing it

well i would think if the timings too far off, then setting it to defualt timing w/o the ECU would make it die, you know? like its way to far retarded, and the computer tries to compensate with advancing the timing to keep it running. Also if your getting MAF codes check all the wiring for breaks and what not

you should love it, its one of the nicest XTs iv ever seen, its beautiful

yea i was SUPER carful when i did the plugs, i carfully hand threaded them, made sure the went in smooth and staight, really slow, lol. I dunno whats up with all these bolts, i know i didnt strip the EGR threads, but the freakin thermostat housing has NO threads left, i mean it looked like a smooth hole, lol, the other one, towards the fronts just fine tho. SHould i get that tap out and just continue to tap it with a new one? Ill take more precaution this time.