Humble Nuto 53

HAHAHAHA, omg, my guts hurt. ive had nights like that too... sorry to hear it visited you (just glad im not alone)

i made one of square tube, suspended on the bumper bolts via plate, and bought a commercial tongue. the tongue bent on first use, but hasnt bent any more. side plates look somewhat triangular with a square bottom to match the tube, the angle goes to front of car. angle is there to clear the muffler, on passenger side its not needed. pull your bumper bolts, make a template of cardboard, or grocery bag, and remember that your muffler swings at least an inch when you accel/decel, and leave some room then i bolted the tongue through the member the rear seam of the gas tank is bolted to, and used big washers and a massive bolt with a piece of pipe around the bolt as spacer.

from your description i would bet its the drivers side timing belt...

no grease (couldnt hurt i guess, might retain water though) the stud is tapered, and theoretically when you scootch the boot down the stud, the diameter increase will fill the hole in the bootie.

yazzer, eh-tiz

i did it with a cheesy thin cable comealong, and a 2x4 between the rafters seems its under 200# iirc

thanks all, i was getting nervous lol

when the platins came out, i was driving old saab 99's... and the platins run hot compared to standard plugs, it helped with oil fouling. i thought they were great. havent tried em on anything else though.

seems like the ea81 oval has been discontinued, up till last winter i was finding them for 4-6 bux... none of the places i used to go to have them anymore. blank spot in all the catalogs. they still sell the flat SPFI filters... anyone else notice this or have i overlooked an obvious source im in minnesota

you might want to check out the 82 ea81 wagon that Scooby Coupe is parting with, might be a saver.....

only good for so much, you dont want to have it so tight that it binds the steering.

there is an adjustment for the lash between the rack and the pinion. on the bottom of the rack is a nut and lock nut. its only good for so much, you dont want to have it so tight that it binds the steering. usually rattle is caused by the bushings in the end of the rack housing showing wear. a rebuilt rack with new inner tie rods is the cure... ive seen them priced between 160.00 and 200.00. havent located the parts to DIY yet, but havent called dealer. i would install a rebuilt before i spent much on doing it myself.

i bet you could put a motor in if you reeealy wanted to... but you cannot let this one go, its too cool... you guys on the west coast get all the good stuff

replace the distributor. iirc, CAS is the hall effect device in the distributor

ive had one in a hatch for 3 years now... guess i should get ready for the inevitable huh?

i may be headed near chicago this weekend. if arch wants to dump tyres/rims i could go have a look and bring a set along. if i go early enough i might stop in New London, WI also on the way back.

on the front, some struts have two adjusters just above the tyre, gives you about an inch more height. on the rear, you can crank up the tension a bit more by removing the back seat bottom and prying up the rubber cap, and screwing that bolt down. i think its a 14mm (so many sube nuts/bolts are) also give you about an inch. *two wheel drive cars have neither of these adjustments* if you wanna go nuts on the rear, you can remove the suspension arm from the torsion bar, and reinstall it a few splines from stock. some have installed coil-over style rear shocks also, search the board for details. ive heard a jumpy tach can be a symptom of a dying distributor, either bushing, or internal electronics. havent heard of any other tach woes (except digi dash) spooky throttle response could be symptomatic of a vacuum leak somewhere. the only vacuum line you really need (unless youre subject to inspections) is the line from the carb to the distributor and from the intake to the brake booster. last point might be a wheel bearing going out or perhaps an inner joint on your axel. outer joints usually announce their displeasure with sharp clicking sounds during a turn (test in parking lot, tight u-turns) inner joints can be a bit more elusive... wheel bearing can frequently be diagnosed by slalom type maneuvers. the bearing cartridge has two bearings within. usually only one side goes bad, so if you load then unload the bad side you can usually hear/feel it. also you can jack up one side and grab the wheel top and bottom and try to wiggle it... any slop not attributed to the ball joint indicates a loose/worn wheel bearing. also possible is that the axel nut has become loose and is possibly stripping out the axel to hub splines. see if theres any metallic dust around the nut, and certainy apply large large wrench/extension pipe and torque it down. recommended 145 ft/lbs... meaning about as tight as you can get it without flipping the car...

i also used jb weld in an exhaust stud on 68 new yorker. brake cleaner'd the hole, painted the stud with a thin layer of never sieze, and packe the hole with jb weld, then put a thin layer of jb directly on the never sieze, and inserted. this was in 1982. apparently markus of darkness is still using the motor in a 68 charger... amazing stuff that jb

ignition/cam timing is always the first thing that comes to mind if youve got spark and fuel. center of three lines, then, one cam up and one cam down. then check to see if your disty is at #1 when flywheel is at tdc, then pull plug #1 and see if you get compression stroke when the disty is at #1.

it IS called the inner tie rod. you can test it by pulling the boot loose from the rack and having assistant wobble the steering wheel while you dive under and grasp the inner joint, where it screws onto the rack. you will feel if the loosness is actually at the rod end, or if the rack has slop at the bushing. i havent had to replace an outer tie rod end on a sube yet. ive replaced three inners on the 8 subes ive owned since the late 80's

sealed bearing... same old same old requires no love till it dies

are you wanting to sell this or pass it on to a good home? *hint* lol im itchy for a road trip, and have a towbar....

ea82 inner tie rod ends are listed as power manual variable rate three parts possible http://beckarnley.com/

been there, recently.... still undecided,myself

gauge is either electric or has a fragile plastic line that you run up into your dashboard.