86BRATMAN

Radius rod plates Radius rod to lower control arm Radius rod plate to tranny crossmember Strut to knuckle bolt 1 Strut to knuckle bolt 2 All parts shown have been exposed to the east coast. Actual apearance my vary:lol:

From our conversation earlier I'll add this, is the car on level ground? What do you have it supported with(jackstands, wood blocks) I probably already asked that but I don't remember. If the car is unlevel where it is sitting that could be part of the issue. Now Lest go a step at a time and hope it goes easier. Take off the wheels, you'll see the strut bolts onto the hub with two bolts that Jon mentioned, both are 14mm heads, one at the back of the strut is a pinch bolt that clamps the knuckle around the strut, the other will be one the side of the strut going through a flange into the knuckle. Take them out and use a rubber mallot or something of the sort, and hit the top of the knuckle to get the strut to come out. It will take a few minutes to get it out, just be patient and don't bend the backing plate too much. And watch out for the brake line, it should be attatched to the strut as well. You can take it loose from the caliper if you like, but it will have to be bled afterwards. When you get the strut loose you'll be able to get the lift block off of it. Now slide the strut back in its hole on the knuckle, or if you removed the brake line set it aside. Repeat for other side. Radius rod plates. Grab your 17mm wrench and socket, and take loose the bolts on the lower control arms on each side(2 bolts per side). Put something in place to hold the weight of the tranny, and remove the 4 nuts holding the tranny crossmember to each radius rod plate. When you've got them free you can position the plates exactly where they need to be. Engine crossmember, aka complete pain in the rump roast... Go ahead and put both of the plates in place that have the bolts attatched to them. as long as you have them on the correct side the small hole in them will line up with an equally small hole. Put a screw, like the ones that hold the interior peices in place, into each hole and tighten them up. That will keep you from pushing them back up and out of place. This would be a good time to lower the body of the car a bit if you can, that way the floor jack and bottle jak you are useing can be more effective. You'll have to fight, cuss, kick, scream, beat, and beg this thing into place, but it will go... Eventually... When you get all the peices put in place make sure its all torqued down, then reinstall the radius rods to the lca's, struts bolt back to the towers first, and then install into the knuckles. Raise tranny back up and install crossmember. Tighten all the motor mounts and go around and give everything you've loosened another check just so it doesn't come apart. I can probably get pictures of most all of this stuff tomorrow evening, about 2-3 pm your time if you need it. And if you need help over the phone tommorow I'll be availible by cell...

He has the vf7.

The drivetrain is basically the same, yes. Except the composite intake manifold, and intercooler caps. The rear suspension changes should make it a little bit more capable auto-x car, but I think rally will suffer. And the fact that they downgraded the brakes is just plain stupid.

I've seen pictures of it while plastered... It didn't help...

Alright, put away the 3 wagon..... We came here to see a subaru...

The ea82 is wider than the sohc ej series, which is wider than the ea81. An ej22 or sohc ej25 wouldn't require as much widening as the ej20* or dohc ej25. Dohc ej's require chassis widening even in gen2 cars.

ABS control box should be under the dash. At least thats were it was on the turbo sedan

You can use the others. But the canadian models will have the correct trim peices to make it look stock.

Reminds me of one dad had back when I first got my license. Ours was an 89 DL. I put that car through hell and back. I like it

I should have been more clear on that as well. I don't mean normally as flat and even across the tire. I mean normally as in how 4wd subaru's wear tires. Disproportional at the outer edge...

I have been having the same problem in my n/a ea81 lately. It only does it if the temp outside is higher than the mid 70's. I have tracked it to the radiator. And I'm waiting on the replacement to come. So yeah, another vote for the radiator.

Maybe a little denatured alcohol is worth a shot too. There have been quite a few people use that to pass the test. Only problem would be if they tested the fuel for it. But good luck and keep us updated.

The axles may not be as troublesome as some of the posts have lead you to believe. For the gen2's it is as simple as swapping the doj cup with the appropriete 25 spline doj cup regreasing and reinstaling the boot. I don't have any gen1 axles to experiment with, but I would say it would not be more involved that that.

I like it.

I know this link is a multiple time repost. But its well worth the look. http://members.optusnet.com.au/~kerrtw/gallery.html

If it were me, I would be tempted to put in an ej22 and acompainying awd box. But I also realize the historic significance of these generation of cars. And the level of modification it would take to fit everything in there. I would have to think hard about the decision.

It does look good. And I don't think the price is bad at all if everything is in order. Good luck!!!

At least they think like me:headbang: Back to the topic, no it won't cause your wheels to wear out at all. Your tires will wear as they normally do. They were designed this way, for reasons we don't understand. So what you are seeing is normal.

Please don't hi-jack threads. There is a classifieds section solely dedicated to the selling of Subaru's by private individuals.

Well, they are in the possession of a guy I know. He wants $40 for them with usable tires, one is missing a center cap(which I have but no retainer for it) They will fit your brakes perfect. Its just the wagon wheels that have issues with the ea82 brakes. I think they look absolutely excelent on white vehicles. I had a set on my white brat back in the day, just wish I could find pictures...

Hello, and welcome to the site. Good to see more international members popping in. I know I'd sure like to see some pics of your car.

I'd recomend finding a new mechanic because that is untrue. All subie motors since 97/98 are interferance and are equally prone to bending valves if a timing belt breaks.

I got mine for $250 in rough shape, but with a spare ej22t with blown h/g to boot I couldn't complain. I resold it local made money, and kept extra engine...

Good catch. Now that I've went back and looked at the manifold. The idle screw is grease covered in the first pic.