86BRATMAN

I've only got about 15 of the ea81 style:lol: . I also have a few of those steelies here too. too bad I don't have an ea82 rear barke drum though to give them a good test... I could test on the steelie/ea81 drum tomorrow EDIT::: I'll take a center cap with me if I go junk yarding tomorrow...

ea81-I shift when it runs out of pull. I don't have a tach so I really can't tell you rpms...

Ok, as long as you know what you've done:grin: . My personal choice would be. Closed deck ej22t, dohc ej25 heads, custom forged pistons to get comp ratio back up to about 8.0-8.2. H-Beam rods, stiff valve springs, stock cams. Fp green turbo, big front mount, either a Link Plus ecu, or autotec(sp?). Usdm 05+ LGT 4.11 tranny with ppg gears, and upgraded center vcd, upgraded front and rear lsd's. And the lightest car I could stuff it into.

Personally, I'd still try it if you can find some. I'm not too much on taking people's word on something until I at least try it. Your car has the silver steelies right?

They should fit, have you ever tested them on your wheels?

You just opened up a bag of worms. Each and every person has their own feelings on motor options.

Do I know!!! That the same condition I have... I hate it when red and green are side by side... insta headache for Shannon

Oh that spot... Subaru used different color spots on the springs to designate what they were for. A spot that big is good for at least 7.31456809 wheel hp though.

Looking good Connie. Every time I see your body work I get more motivated to do a bit more on the hatch. And I know I'm partial color blind and all, but those springs don't look yellow to me, just a little rusty... However if they were yellow, there would be a horsepower joke inserted here-->

:lol: There was a time when I cared, but I'm on medication for that.... Ok not really...

Yes all civic motors from 84-87 were 12 valve. You forget the good looking body style crx, you know the one where motor swaps are worth the time. 88-91 crx hf has an 8 valve 1.5L, I was wrong on the horsepower, but who really cares.

I was wrong on the wiper size I said above, I appearantly was thinking of the rear wiper for some reason. But proper size is either 16" or 17" depending on where you look it up. An extra inch isn't going to hurt anything. IIRC stands for if i remember correctly.

I'm not sure on those either. I read something that said one thing and then stuff saying the other.

There is one trim level of CRX that I'd put money on the ea82... The CRX HF. 8 valve, 50hp, and gears as long a a cold winter night...

I've still got an ea-81 pan laying here.

Yeah, I had to do those with a boxed end wrench:dead:

Look at the back of the motor, to the driver's side of the throttle body. Down on the block, single wire running to it.

The best place to get the sensor is from the dealer, you'll pay more for it, but its worth it. There is a number listed on the sight for a Jason who works for a dealer out west who can hook you up with a good deal. Just had to check about the maf cleaning... Can't be too careful with those.

Tick of death. And by no means a litteral interpretation of whats going on when it happens. The hla's(hydraulic lash adjusters) on the rocker arms sometimes get oil starved and tick, think manual valve adjusters too loose.

I have seen them go bad, when they go bad they won't comunicate to scan tools either. The fact that you are getting codes shows you have a good ecu. What were the exact codes and corresponding numbers?

Not to worry, thats a foam wrap to keep the heater hose from rubbing on the support that is right there at it.

That a bunch crap to make the intake noise less, well noisy. That big black box is designed to hold a chanber of air for quicker throttle response as well.

Yeah, I mean I've got two 1.8 liter honda blocks in my building. One made 130hp stock, the other made 170hp. I don't have any notions that my 1.8L can do anything of the sort.

That looks damn good. Except for them tires:grin: . That actually looks about like stock ea81 camber...

The jdm transmissions are really no different than our usdm models. You could find a known good tranny here for a heck of a lot cheaper than a jdm unit. What procedures have you used to determine what is causing your torque bind?