WRX2FFU

Welcome! Nice car for sure. Glad you posted a pic. We like pics. Also, I just noticed your from indy. I am from Fort Wayne. There is a state subi site. http://www.indianaimpreza.com Check it out, lotsa great people from indy there. Also we are haveing our bi-annual meat at Tom Wood Subaru in a couple weeks.

Why didn't it leak? Who knows. Those are called crush washers for a reason. They are really only 1 time use....

Try looking around or doing search. Welcome I see your new. If you do it yourself you'll have more in bolts and nuts than anything. Bout' $50 in surplus steel...

3 Months or 3k miles...... I have had several "backup" cars setting. I only did them once a year... I put on between 1-3k on any of them a year. As long as the oil is full and has no water in it you should be ok.

Great Buggy! The best advise I can give is to get all of the engine build specs, parts list, possible mileage, and get the tune info maybe even take it to a tuner and have things checked with the tune. Is there a wideband o2 on there? If so what AFR's is it running at WOT. What boost is it running? Only run premium fuel. Also see what oil has been used in the motor and maybe even have an oil analysis done from blackstone labs. This will give you an idea of engine condition, and also great for viscosity and change intervals. Thye ej25d is not a boosted motor so I think you need to see what was done to allow for boost. IE: pistons, rods, etc. Thats a big turbo for only 220Rwhp, on an sti motor it would give over 400Awhp. I am betting the tune is really rich and/or super conservative. You might actually gain better driveability with a smaller quicker spooling turbo. With tuning of course....

I've a have a treadwear gauge. They are relativly cheap. 2/32 difference is a good rule, if you stay right there you'll most likley never have issues as long as your air pressures are good.

Do you have any funny noises when on the throttle. Maybe like a puffing or chugging noise? Have you had the codes pulled? Here is why I ask. The 5.4 is pretty well known for blowing spark plugs out of the heads, also even though the CEL is not lit the ecu can have stored non "hard" codes. It may need to be scanned by a better unit. For example: My 01' chevy 2500 was having some shifting issues, no visible CEL. I hooked up the OTC genesis, I had tps codes. Changed tps problem solved. If you have someone with a snapon, or otc, etc.... look at it they can drive the vehicle and log what it's doing. High end scanners are nice. I know yours is a Ford but... At worst you may want to take it in for at least a diagnostic test.

If it's done the way I posted. It can be done on about 3 hours from start to finish. Both sides. I don't even try other methods now. Just get out the big tools...

This is what I have done. Take knuckle off of the car. Drill out the broken Bolt. (I have just used bolts and nuts...) Gently pry open the pinch. I say gently becuase the knuckles are cast and will break if you bang on them too much.(done that) Then take a cutoff wheel and cut the ball joint off flush with the knuckle. Then take the cutoff wheel and cut into the balljoint horizontally thru the pinch. Just take your time and cut as much of the ball joint as you can with out taking any of the pinch with it. Then take a drift and a hammer and crush the sides of the balljoint down near the cut. At this point the joint will start to move and you should be able to gently rotate it 180 degrees and then cut it again. At this point the ball joint will be soft and you should be able to break it apart and get it out. Then clean and debburr/derust the hole so the joint fits in easilly. I then coat the joint and the hole in anti seize. Put the joint in, put in your bolt and nut. The seal the entire pinch with high temp silicone. The antisieze and silicone are not manditory of course but If I ever need to do the joints again I don't want as much of a job. I have tried several other ways and nothing worked. Pickle fork broke on one(yeah, that sucked), I bent a LCA on another, I also broke an entire ear off of a knuckle as well. So i decided to do it the above way. It seems like a lot fo steps but goes quickly. Most of the joints I end up replacing are well plus of 150k miles... Also just FYI, the ones where the knucle broke the ear. I did have to get a new knuckle. I did not trust welding it back. BUT I had to do ball joints on the new/used knuckle too. GRRRRRR! Good luck!

I didn;t think it would work either. Just not enough room in the block itself. I just did not have any concrete numbers other than the bore size differences.

^ No hijack. Just let me know and we'll see what you need. I got the starter mounted and tested today. YES! I also had some time to see what this is gonna look like. I "placed" the motor and trans to see where they set. I need to take out the pitch stop mount ad some of the trans tunnel. I want the motor up about 3-4 more inches.... Me tapping: BOOOring: Kinda cool pic though... Mounted starter: Test: BUUUHEAMOUPH: Almost home: In this pic, you can also see, that is about how wide the wheels will set...(i have a lot to do...) In this side pic, just for reference. The car will set aboout 2 feet higher.

The HF helmets are fine. I have one I use for friends and such. I also have a speeglass and i prefer it. It's just more comfortable to me. The HF units have good shade protection which is the important part. The speeglass has a lower "light" shade which also allows easier viewing when not sparking. As far as wire... I have gas() so it's not as important really. I run flux wire if I happen to run out of gas but try not to use it. I have had chaep wire weld just as good as expensive wire. .030, .035 will do most anything you need. I agree with abouve that you need to avoid sheet metal work with flux wire. You'll never get the desired result. For sheet I run 75/25 gas with .025 wire. I have used .030 but seem to get a lot more burn thru, especially with subie sheet metal. IIRC it has a high lead content and that makes it a little soft. Also and this is just me. If your doing flux or gas mig. Clean, Clean, Clean. You need to make sure where your welding is rust and grease free. Do some prep and you'll be a lot happier with the welds in the end. Another tip. Make sure you are comfortable and your torch lead is not tangled and such. It will make things smoother and eaiser. Granted you cannot always weld in comfortable postions but do your best to try. The best thing to do is get some wire, some scrap, and start making sparks!

Well, it's worth taking measurements to see if it will work.

Neat! Watching.

The ej22 sleeve is 9mm larger on the inside. I am not sure of the thinkness of the sleeve itself. I sure it can be decreased a bit. I am just not sure that there is enough room on the block itself to fit them. You could be getting into coolant passages, also might run into crank clearance issues on the bottom. Without taking measurements I can't be sure. Sounds like a ton of work just to make some free pistons fit. I did some basic CR figures and I guess your right. The CR would be in the 9.7:1 to 10.5:1 range. Really only about 1 point over stock though. That also depends on which heads your using and which head gasket as well Also I am not sure of the differences in piston deck clearance. Basically I believe unless all the measurements are made and then calculated no one would be 100% sure, unless they have done it... which I am not sure anyone has.

Thats a 9mm bore size difference. Not sure if there is enough room. Your gonna have to measure it andd confer with a machine shop most likley. Not only that but the cost of making this work will probably be more than just getting an ej22 block. The stroke on both motors are the same but your also gonna need to measure piston skirt length and wrist pin hole location as well. I am also not sure your comp ratio would go up. Both motors had about the same comp ratio. IMHO not worth the hassle. I may be wrong though because I have never tried it... Hopefully some of the motor builders here will chime in. I am no expert by any means...

Looks great!

It needs bolted/rivited into place IMHO. I would use silicone to seal ti.

I am gonna do this on my legacy too. It will only have 3 windows and I needed a new windshield anyway. A sheet of 1/8 or 1/4 in polycarb is cheaper than new window glass anyway. Here is some info on both. They both have advantages and disadvantages for use as car windows. Key characteristics/differences, Acrylic(Plexiglass) compared to Polycarbonate (Lexan): More likely to chip, less impact resistance then Polycarbonate. (still 10-24 times more resistant than glass) Less likely to scratch. More of a consumer (household) level and is easier to find at hardware stores. Does NOT yellow after time. Better clarity and can be restored to optical clarity. Key characteristics/differences, Polycarbonate (Lexan) compared to Acrylic(Plexiglass): Impact/chip resistance is much higher with Polycarbonate. (about 30 times more resistant than glass) More likely to scratch. Substantially more expensive. (roughly 2 to 3 times) Used for more industry applications Bulletproof when thick enough. More bendable. More formable. Yellows over time due to ultraviolet rays Easier to work with (cut, less likely to break) Poorer clarity, diffuses light, can lighten I was gonna use the polycarb and then have it covered in clear rockblocker to help wih scratches and yellowing. Other than that Poly is better for me but way more expensive.... I have worked with both and have broken wayyyy more plexiglass than lexan. To me the ease of forming and cutting of the polycarb offsets the cost of screwing up the plexi by breaking it.

A 700r4 should be very the same, bellhousing wise. The hub distances my be different depending on torque converter/flexplate. I was gonna use one but I am not gonna need OD so I went with te thm350. Plus it's a super easy trans to work on and rebuild on the cheap. Plus it's pretty bulletproof. The biggest issues are the oilpan/ starter clearance. Motor mount location(stock ones won't work). The mounts themselves need to be custom built to fit around the headers as well as a custom cross member. Getting the kickdown cable to work on a subie throttle. If you use the OD trans you'll need a TV cable adapter, and a TCC lockup kit. Just from my babbling here you can see the adapter/hub are only part of it.

I have thought about that. I might. I want to make sure it works first. I have a ton of hours in this so far. It's gonna be hard for me to just give the info away. I don't want to sound like an elitist rump roast but I am sure you understand. I am just so invested in this, and it's hard. I will most likley not build a unit for someone but the blueprints can be copied. I may/will do a seperate write up on it when I am done. This would include the blueprints in PDF and all of the descriptions. The cool thing about this as well is that it would work for an ej motor as well. The rear of the eg33 and the ej are almost exactly the same. 500 hp sti motor anyone?

Thanks guys! I did loose about a quart but I figure with an oil cooler and possible remote oil filter I'll gain that oil back. I can't wait to start on the chasiss. Thats where the real fun will be and it wil start to look like something.

^ I still do things that way but when it comes to making a subaru motor run a chevy trans I had to crunch some numbers. So it's official. The motor and the trans are one unit. I just need to finish up the starter mounting, and turn some dowels for the dowel holes to finish it off. Soon it's gonna find it's way over to he car to start fianlly laying out the frame rails and engine mounts/crossmember/trans mount. "PLATE" BOLTED TO THE TRANS AND THE HUB ON THE TRANS: "PLATE" HUB/FLEXPLATE BOLTED TO THE MOTOR: TOGETHER:

So I got all the trans holes drilled and tapped in the plate, I also got it all cut out to size and sorta cleaned up. Next will be the motor holes and the hole for the starter. Then the two should be together. YAY!

^Right about the dealers. Most bigger ones could care less. The biggest key like said above. Be willing to walk away if your offer is not accepted. I usually pick a price I am willing to pay, and don't budge. If you don't get it i guess it was not meant to be.