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Are you talking swaybar endlink/s? If so don't worry about it. It might make the car handle a little bit different but probably won't be that noticeable.

Welding the center diff should do it.

I have thought about it many times. If I did it I wouls want it moveable. Casters that would hold the weight of the crane and whatever I am lifting are expensive as hell. Thats what kept me from doing it. I also want to build a rotiserire but have the same issue with the casters...

No problem. Parts look great! It saves a tone of elbow grease, and is good for the environment. The funny part is that you waste a tone of time just watching the crap in amazement. I will almost never wire brush or sandblast some parts again.

Cool! thanks for the info. I have been looking closely at the r200's and also the irs 8.8 ford diffs which give me cheaper options for gears and lockers. The irs fords are also cheaper and more plentifull too. As for the trans? time will tell. I have 2 setting here so I might try to build one eperimentally with cryo'd new stock gears. I hate to get too much away from subiw parts but I have to be realistic if I want this thing to do any of the fun stuff. I am not building it to go to cars shows. In the end I think having a good subie motor and keeping all independant suspension is pure enough for me for what this will be. I gotta say that your build inspired me a few years ago so thanks!

What broke in the r160? Gears or stub shafts? was it welded? The trans. I know. Until I try it we'll see. I won't be launching it so...?

I don't see why the d/r 5speed wouldn't hold up to the eg33. It's not that powerfull. I'ma gonna run that setup in my offroader so i'll let you know.

Kinda un related but.... Unless your pulling oil into the carb your blue smoke is most likley ring issues.

Adapter plate... if you wanted this option. The thing to think about is, how skilled are you? A lot of the mechanical is basic but the wiring is a bit more involved especially when switching to a newer turbo motor. It is doable but time consuming. You'll most likeley need the car to be down for a while. Even skilled swapers take 2-3 days at least.

Any year ej20,ej22, ej25 will bolt right in, you can also fit an ez30, eg33, er27. Chevy 350 or and small block v8 will fit with mods. They will all fit. Some of them might be a bit tight depending on the radiator but they all fit. All the ej series blocks are the same size on the outside. I am glad your here but for parts you might check out rs25.com for a lot of suggestions. I have a 98 imp. L wagon and have gotten tons of ideas and bought some good parts pretty cheap there. I have converted the whole front end over to 2.5rs and you can too or get jdm bumpers and stuff as well. The simpleest way to make it scary fast would be do do a turbo motor swap.

Welcome! Old subies are great. They will do things that amaze and delight.

$ ez30's cost more. But if money were no object why not an sti engine? Good torque and with the right tune you'll net 350 hp with out a problem. Good torque too. Plus you could call it a turbo prop!

I can understand that. If you need to know what it's doing then dyno? Seems like a lot of work to try to make it work in any other car than an svx just for a bit of feel. I have an svx shell with no title. It has a bad trans and no wiring but the motor would bolt right in.

I would be eaiser to just bulid a test stand and run it on there...

We have a local guy selling an adapter plate from an ej20 to a 700r4...

^^^ Ture there is a bit of slop but the thrust bearing in the flywheel will take most of that abuse. The two studs in the bottom align it good enough in my opinion. Do what you will though.

No dowels in mine either, wheeled and DD for over a year. If it's bolted in then why would dowels be needed?

Got the ea flywheel and old clutch and pp mounted. Bolted right up. Test bolting the motor and trans to see whats needed. I also got some plate to make the adapter. I got the template made as well. I had to rough cut the plate it with the torch. Just need to clean it up and drill some holes.

Yeah, I ran into this with my scrap metal place. They had everything but. I settled on a piece of 5/8 plate steel. $20 and i just have to cut it out with the torch and fly cut it in the mill. Little extra work but worth the price difference.

Cliffnotes: Not all Napa's are company owned stores. A Lot of them are jobbers and can sell you anything they want as an alternative. Buy all parts at NAPA company owned stores, or inist on NAPA company parts IE: Balkamp... as stated above. Just as an example in my city there is only 1 Napa owned store and about 13 other stores owned by jobbers.

I've used the max life and had good luck but only with vehicles over 150k. I also like lucas oil treatment on the "smokers" i've had. Works well too.

Not really. I have been fooling with idiots trying to finish parting this svx. I did get the the trans and motor fitted and have the template made for the adapter plate and hopefully today I will start getting it together. The svx is getting pulled out later today and I am gonna start fabbing up the frame rails.

Making it out of 3/4-1" rigid emt would be cheap and easy too. Ypu could weld or bolt it together using pipe connectors.

Looks great! I love 1st gens.

I make it a habbit of putting stuff away and getting rid of junk. Be it scrap or just garbage. I also have a big storage area that is not so organized but I can find a part if I need it. My workspace I keep clean. I hate to trip over ************ and thats what it stems from. I have very little time to work on stuff sometimes and If i have to clean up a project to do another I get pissed. Plus If I lose something that I needed because I pushed it off to the side for room for something else I get super mad. It just takes a lot of practice and patience. I am now a stickler and if my shop is not pretty neat I am upset. Yes, there are occasions where I think "damn, I wish I would not have gotten rid of blah, blah, blah". That goes away quickley though.