WRX2FFU

I am going to be doing an h6 in my 1st gen legacy. INHO you'll want a whole car. This gives you the ecu, wiring, etc... Stuff that to piece together is possible but time consuming and maybe more expensive. You can get decent svx's for a G or less...

Nice meter. Looks like it will be pretty decent. I don't use digital meters though. I have an old simpson 260 that I dearly love. It's bulky and combersome sometimes but I can pretty much do anything with it. I have to emply math skills sometimes to use it but it keeps me sharp. O-scope for everything else "difficult".

My opinion is to keep it. Especially if it is paid off. I would look at cheaper alternatives for the sunroof repair as well as the exhaust. You could try aftermarket cats from a parts store and a muffler shop. The sun roof well for now use clear silicone and seal that sucker so it doesn't leak on you. Fix it later or never. The clear silicone can be easilly hidden and most people won't notice it. Or look for a good sunroof in a junk yard and have the roof cut off and then use that to replace yours... The big thing as well. If it will not pass smog then in selling it your gonna take a loss and limit your buyers becasue if they are local then they are gonna need to fix it and you'll be paying for it anyway with a huge loss in sale price.

Ok, got some pics. This is what it looks before it goes in the soup. Six hours in the soup. Still has minor surface rust but when I spray it with brake cleaner before I paint it it should be good to go. I might even put it back in for a couple more hours. Next to a subaru knuckle so i can compare what was to what will be.

So I am cleaning up my chevy 4x4 knuckles to be used on my upcoming "Godzirra" legacy project and I am thinking this sucks. I got these knuckles from the junk yard. They are old and really rusty so I want to clean and paint them with ceramic paint. Ok, no big deal right? Wrong! They are really rusty and just all around crappy and to clean them would take forever. I think to my self - I wonder if electrolosis would work? So I get a cheap plastic bin from big lots, A 99 cent box of baking soda, an old battery charger, A junk chevy truck rotor, and some water. I fill the bin with water, then dump in the box of baking soda mixing it in. Clean off a spot to hook the clamp from the battery charger on the rotor and set it in the tub of water. Then I cleaned a small spot on the knuckle to hook the other battery charger lead. Put it in the water. Stand back and plug in the charger........ Well the charger loaded down as it should and within seconds i could see bubbles coming from both pieces of steel. I could not remember which lead to hook to the sacrificial piece so I moved them around after a few minutes and got them right. So the thing has been setting for about 4 hours. The water now looks like sewage but it is working great. So if you ever have any rusty metal you want cleaned with out expensive chemicals or lots of elbow grease, give electroliosiss:grin: a try. I'll post some before and after pics when it's done.

Yup, mine was an auto

^^^^thats pretty much the list. You also have to have an ea82 starter and have to space the trans back about a 1/2 inch. I run the impreza fwd axels on mine. I am getting ready to go thru a major revamp/rebuild (gonna try to run 35x13.5x16 tires ) and will have some stuff for sale. Like a 3.90 lsd. lengthed DS, front axels, custom D/R trans mount, possibly redrilled flywheel, and other related stuff as well as 4" worth of lift componants. Pretty much everything needed to duplicate my car minus the D/R trans.

Looks good! Now, make a "kit" to swap d/r trannies in the ej cars and you'll have a huge seller. I have a d/r in my 90' lifted(4 1/2") legacy. IMHO, the trans is just as important as the lift for off roading. Keep up the good work!

Scott, do me a favor and measure the rear diff clearence on a flat surface or me. I am just trying to compare to my 90 leg wagon with 2" blocks and OB springs. Sorry to hi-jack, Thanks. Looks good! Todd

My latest pics.......... I know they are really bad... Cell phone:rolleyes:

Very nice site. Good job!

great work! That is awesome looking.

Well yes i understand that. BUT, exceeding the speed rating can be dangerous coupled with the speeds mentioned. Tires CAN come apart quickly at those speeds. Realistically the speed ratings can be exceeded without any problems, and usually the speed ratings are underated by 10% or so. I am just saying that it is very possible for the tires to not like speeds exceeding their ratings. I have had a tire start to shred the outer tread at 150. It was an H rated tire. It had less than 10k miles on it. It may have been a defect and i got a new one for free but i did not tell them when it started to come apart. I was just trying to make sure people understood that it can happen and to be careful.

A better question is would it hit 130 before or after the tires gave out? Most normal passenger tires are not rated for speeds above 118.

RAR! and welcome. Post some pics of youre legacy. 98' OB struts and springs. 2" lift blocks. I bought it this way though. Lucky me! YAY!' I love whoring pics!

Thanks D! The main bar design will contiue down with spacing for 3 maybe 4 bars getting shorter side to side as i go down. The final "bar" will be 1x4 turned at an angle. There will be a skid plate attached to that as well to help protect the exhaust and oil pan. I may loose an 1" of down clearence but i should be able to smack rocks and stuff with the bottom "bar"/skidplate and not worry about a thing. I am going to custom make new swaybar mounts to incorporate the back skid plate mounting. I may remove the FSB completely but not sure yet. Thanks for the comments.

So we started working on final fiitting and mounting of the main supports. Then we figured the spacing for the top bar. I also wanted to incorporate reciver stock on both sides to slide the winch mounting plate into. These points will accomidate multiple accessories that will be made as well a stablizing the removable winch/plate. I keep saying we. My friend Drew is a lot better welder and fabricator than me as well as a fellow subie nut. This is him in the pic with the reciever stock fitted on the main mounting points for the top bar spacing. After many hours we finally started to final cut stuff. I did not get a lot of pics of the top bar in progress because we were pretty focused and i just forgot:) . So here is the final pics of what was done yesterday. Like i said we have a lot left to do but the idea is there.

I had a pretty good day yesterday. Got some more done on the bumper. I am pretty happy with the progress so far. The main mounting points are done and the top bar is on. It took a while with a lot of fitting and changes. I have a lot more to do but the idea is there now. In these pics i had the trimming of the stock sheet metal done. So now i had to figure out for sure what i wanted which changed a lot but we started drawing. Here we test fitted the main mounitng supports 2x4 1/8th wall. We also set the top bar in place to see where it was gonna be and how high we needed to put it. We quickly realized we would be able to reuse some of the stock mountings. We just had to drill the holes all the way through the unibody. I wanted to be able to take the bumper off so instead of welding it would be bolted.

Sweet! The only thing to remember is the Autozone alternators suck. When I have used one i have had to replace it more than once in less than 6 months.

Welcome!. That is really clean!

your sick! Cool:-p

Do above said maintenence. I think if you have have trouble there will be enough USMB er's that would help you out too. Make sure you have access to the internet, via wireless laptop. McD's has free wifi. Film the whole trip like those vw guys...........

Well i started today working on my custom front bumper. Getting the cover off was a PITA. Lots of broken bolts. I finally got it off and made some cut reference lines on the "body" to clean up the front. I also made some measurements and PB basted the crap out of the stock bumper mounting bolts. I think i am going to remount the new bumper in the same manner by bolting the whole thing to the unibody. It's not a lot right now but a start. Next is to get the stock bumper off and then gather the steel and start cutting and welding. PICS! YAY! Before: Today: You can kinda see my trimming mark in the last pic. Its the metal behind the bumper

13's I might paint em' don't know yet. I like em.

In IN they don't necsesaraly(sp?) do that any more. If you have a title for an out of state car the BMV just wants to see the vins match, of course you have to have the car there for them to look at. To the OP, you should be able to apply for "lost title" with a bill of sale.