carfreak85

I thought that all RXs or turbos for that matter had 3.7 final drives. This seems to say otherwise and it was recently updated. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gears.htm

We're running Mobil 1 10W30 synthetic motor oil in my old man's Rex. I might run it in my wagon after everything gets rebuilt. I don't see the need in my non-LSD rear end, non-RX tranny, and my engine with only rebuilt heads.

Here are some pics: http://usmb.net/gallery/album216/Rally_T_wagon http://usmb.net/gallery/album216/T_wagon_T_upgrade http://usmb.net/gallery/album216/T_wagon_engine

Can we get a button to delete posts please?

Anything can be done, but how much do you want to spend on fabrication?

Theres a set of KCs on my hatch and I've got a set of Hellas that will be going on my wagon.

I'll have to look for more, but for now here are some of my favorites, let me know what you think: http://usmb.net/gallery/album282

Sounds like a really, really bad ground or short in some part of the ignition switch/ entire system.

I would just replace them. Preventative maintenance will do wonders for the long term reliability of your car.

I don't know where mine went either! I just made some new ones for the throttle/cruise junction.

Tell me something about those shocks on the rear of that wagon!

This is what I got. I have the cruise control that sits behind the passenger's side strut tower, so mine's a bit different, but I hope this helps! http://usmb.net/gallery/album272/IMG_0778?full=1http://usmb.net/gallery/album272/IMG_0779?full=1

NGK. I've used them on every sube I've ever owned and they've never let me down. Plus thats what FHI suggests using. CSK seems pretty cheap to me, at least in Washington.

There are EA81 GL-10s. I've seen 2 GL-10 coupes, but they were both 2WDs, doesn't mean they can't be wagons or 4WD.

Glad to hear the engine is stronger! I'll put this on the table. In a year, when the VRI gets strightened out (Messy rooms and all), bring the brat up here and I'll see if I can't get you on the dyno for free. I just want to see some numbers!

YEESSSS!!! Congrats Ed! Glad you finally got that sucker done! I have a feeling Dan will be going through the same deal with his brat. On a side note, I think emmissions is a great thing, not because it sucks all our money or saves the environment, but think of how poorly the carb and tuning of the engine before compaired to now! I ber you're going to get more power and better mileage now than ever before. You should also get that puppy dynoed so we can have some numbers for your build.

I think they would. It also contains tire inflation info and other important tidbits like that.

Depends on what your plans for the car are. If you plan on driving on the street or driving fast then go for the alloys. Lighter, stronger and just plain look better on a street car. If you're planning to go offroad, get the steels because if you bend a steel wheel, you can hammer it back into shape on the trail and replace it later as opposed to an alloy wheel where your basically F'ed. It all depends on your plans, so I hope this helped.

I am pretty sure it was 4WD. Off of a 1600 and was missing the the transfer case on the back.

In my Power Transmissions clase, one of our projects is to disassemble and reassemble a gearbox. We went out back to pic a trans and I saw the sube box just sitting there and I went mad! I never realized they were so simple inside! Mind you it was missing the back half of the case for some reason and had already had all the case bolts removed by some dingus who couldn't put them back, but I now realize that trans work is very easy on these cars! No pics, sorry!

I hate owning an obscure sube sometimes!!!

Do any of you turbo owners have the hose that connects from the thermostat housing to the turbo? Mine has a hole in it and Schucks and NAPA don't even have a PN for it. It is molded so I can't just use any old hose. Anyone? Mods feel free to move this. Might be able to get some pics.

Dashboard too, also the front suspension, stiffer and lower than non turbo cars. Fuel pump, aircleaner/AFM. Thats most of the important differences between the two engine types, I think...

I would do it myself, so it would be free. If its a sube guy, not too bad. If its a shop, you're gonna get hosed.

There is NO camber adjustment on old subes. Your best bet is probably to get a new, stright control arm and replace the bent one.