carfreak85

I would do it myself, so it would be free. If its a sube guy, not too bad. If its a shop, you're gonna get hosed.

There is NO camber adjustment on old subes. Your best bet is probably to get a new, stright control arm and replace the bent one.

I've heard about the GSRs but can you shead some more light on this model to me? 4WD, HP, etc.

I seriously doubt this guy has problems with negative camber because all us old school guys a fighting to GET negative camber. You have a problem with POSITIVE camber, which is when the top of the wheel tilts out and the bottom tilts in: \ / This is what old soob's front wheels look like. / \ This is what negative camber looks like. My adjusters are all the way down on both my cars! Can I still be a member?

Wondering if anyone knows anything about this rig. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/Leone3.jpg

Well the obvious difference is that the Gen 1 spoiler won't fit Gen 2 cars. I don't think his has brake cooling ducts either.

I'm testing the waters on this idea. I just received a Kamei spoiler for my turbo wagon. I've heard that there is some interest in these and I figured I could lend a hand. I'm going to Western next year and I will have access to fiberglass and carbon fiber layups and I figured that I could fab some replicas up for sale if anyone were interested. These would be quality peices, not single layer (Read >1/8" thick) and could be speced out for brake ducting or oil cooler ducts. This is not for sure because I would be doing it in my spare time and I'm not even sure about testing, but who would be interested. Pricing is still up in the air but I think I could get them down around $150-200 for fiberglass or carbon fiber. So, whos interested? This is an example of the spoiler, sorry about tyhe quality of the picture: http://usmb.net/gallery/album216/IMG_0813?full=1

How difficult would it be to swap an EA81 front brake setup for a EA82 set up? Just the brakes, not the control arms or anything.

Yeah, yeah, yeah... Cheaper... I'm really happy that I kept the car the way it came from the factory, it is such a hoot to drive! I'm not making full boost though. 6psi instead of 7psi. I'll have to look at the manual to see if anything else can be adjusted.

Well the shop I had rebuild my engine put the plug wires on wrong. They were arranged 1-4-2-3, waaaaaay off, I know. Then my dad changed them to 1-2-3-4. Silly old man! I figured that he had them right and I spent half the day trying to set the timing on a car that couldn't hold a stedy idle with the timing light connected! Now its done, and its the best car EVER! Matt, you missed out!

I read in an issue of Sport Compact Car a while ago, and they tested a bunch of stock and aftermarket BOV and recerc valves. You know which was the most consistant with the least amount of boost occilation? The stock WRX recurc valve. No kidding.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/brats/bratcolors/82-jade.jpg

WOW, that is pretty cool! I might have to look for one of those!

Don't you see the hole in the bed infront of the rear wheel?:-p Oh well, it was worth a try!

Actually Matt, I don't know how you felt, because it FRIGGIN WORKS!!!! I LOVE this car! It has sooooooo much power! This has to have been the least powerful, yet funnest car I have ever driven! I love it, I love it, I love it, I love it, I love it, I love it, I love it!!!

Saw this today and I had to take a pic for all you eastcoasters! http://usmb.net/gallery/album280/IMG_0863?full=1

Turbo light comes on at about 2000rpm.

Well, I lined up the crank to TDC and the disty was pointing at #1 on the disty cap. This car is getting on my nerves! How do I check the centerfical advance?

I'm using NGK plugs. A tooth on the disty might be it, I'll have to check. Any other thoughts?

My turbo wagon starts and runs fine now. The shop I had rebuild my motor put the plug wires in the wrong spots on the disty. Now I have a new problem. The car has NO power before 2700rpm. I think it has to do with the ignition, but I'm not sure. We set the timing at 15* BTDC and it ran the same way, but with less power. We advanced it to about 20* BTDC and it is the same, but a little more power. I cannot even drive up a slight grade! The vacuum advance is hooked up as is all the ignition stuff. One question I had is about setting the timing. This tag under the hood http://usmb.net/gallery/album215/IMG_08262?full=1 says to disconnect the 2-pole connector under the coil. This: http://usmb.net/gallery/album215/IMG_08282?full=1 Is the only connector with 2 poles that I can see anywhere around the coil. Can anyone help me? P.S. It also backfires a little. Not HUGE backfires, but noticable skips in the idle.

Check the date on the post Ben, too little too late! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20643&page=1&pp=10

What about using the R-200 diff from a Nissan 300ZXTT. They are stronger than a Ford 9" rear end, beleive it or not!

Hmmm... Swap the alternator eh? Can someone snap a picture of the external voltage regulator for me? I dont think I've seen one before. Some pics of what wires need to be cut etc. would be very helpful too.

Just like the title says. I'd like to know of a good place to buy swampers in the Seattle area.

I'd also like to hear some input on this.