tcspeer

I removed this post, sorry I just repeated something that was already covered.

I agree they could stand to be a little more clear. I have never seen the Bentley manual but I will keep a look out for one.

Lucky is right you need to take at least three minutes, to compress the tensioner, to remove the crank spocket it should come off by hand but you may have to gently work it off with two screwdriver just be careful and dont pry with to much force. If you will get a Haynes manual it will give you good photos and details on the whole timing belt job.

Nipper, that is a really good thought on checking the belt, Mjez remember if you check the timing dont try to get the lines on the belt to line back up, line your timing marks up and count the teeth like the Haynes manual shows. Those marks on the belt wont line back up until a lot of relvolitions have been made. If the marks on the belt can still be seen you might be beter off just to do it over, and check the tensioner as Nipper suggested.

Mjez, I cant tell you what is wrong with your car but I can tell you what I do when in this sitution. I take my car to a local shop here that has lots of fancy test equipment, I get them to tell me whats wrong and then most of the time I can fix it myself. The mechanic knows all I want is a dignoses and it usually costs me around 40.00 or 50.00 dollars. Maybe you can find someone there or even pay Subaru to find your problem. I wish I could help but my thoughts have already been mentioned.

I agree with the other two posts, check tires and wheels first. I think you have lost a wheel weight on one of the wheels and a good balance should fix it.

I am thinking maybe coil pact also. Did you check and make sure your vacum line that comes from the idle air control valve to the air filter tube is still on, this is a common problem after changing spark plugs.

I dont know if I need one yet, but I think it must be a right hand drive, so that means I will probably have to buy a new one. I remember someone on here trying to put one from a right hand drive to a left hand drive and saying the line connectors are on the wrong side. I think it is one of the few things that wont swap from one to the other.

Thanks Nipper for the tip on the lights, I had no idea how to go about trouble shooting that issue.

Last night I went out and pumped the brakes around five times they held fine, then I started the car and the pedal moved towards the floor. The car has brakes but they are not as good as the ones in my other postal wagon which is a 97, this one is the 98 that I paid 100.00 dollars for back in April. Its now close to 2.000.00 dollars that I have in it,but I would not sell it for that as the right hand drives are getting harder to get. I also noticed when I stepped on the brake pedal the park lights and dash lights came on.

Thanks for the tips, I will bleed them one more time and check and make sure no wheel cyclinders are leaking, if that dont take care of it I will replace the master cyclinder.

What is the best way to test the master cyclinder, I replaced the front and rear brakes and then bleed them, but it seems like their is not as much pedal on this 98 legacy wagon as most cars.

Thanks, I found 599 Ultra Grey, could not find the Threebond 1215.

What is the best sealant to put the oil pump back on with? The anaerobic sealant it says to use in the Haynes manual, I cant find around here.

I hope you are right I was worried about bent push rods.

98 Legacy wagon 2.2 If you have the timing marks lined up and the belt off, what would happen if the cam spocket got turned back about one turn?

Wal mart has a scanner for under 100.00 dollars that works great, it is made by Innova and it is digital OBDll. Mine has 3100 in top right corner I guess that is model number. It comes with a really good manual also.

I would suggest removing radiator and washing out the dirt and bugs in the coils, be gentle and dont damage the fins.

I use one almost like this only it has a long bar handle, it can be bought at Harbor Freight for around 20.00 dollars. I think it is called chain wrench. You can hold it with one hand and break the nut with the other hand without any one their to help. I also use the belt as Handtool says only I wrap it and then duct tape it so it dont fall off.

This is good advice but also check and make sure both caliper pins are sliding in and out, usually the bottom one with the little rubber boot will give problems. You can make new boots for these with vacum line hose of same size.

I just took one apart on a transmission that I removed from a 98 Legacy. If you want to do it clean it good, and mark with paint marker the coverplate and trans. body. You will have to take one bolt out and then turn the cover plate to the left. It is threaded deeper then you would think. This cover cap has the big O- ring that needs to be replaced, and then the seal is very easy to replace. I think the seal came out with cap as stated in the other post. I seen no reason to be over concerned with the torque of the cover plate I think if you screw it all of the way back in and match your marks you ought to be fine. There was no pressure on the axle stub from this seal or cover that I could tell. The reason I checked this out is I have a 97 Legacy wagon that needs them replaced, so I done the practice on a transmission that was already shot.

My steering yoke went bad, but it did not clunk, it just rattled on rough roads. It may have started to clunk if I had not changed it. You might also have your struts checked.

Mine was doing this a while back, replace the whole thing they dont cost much and are very easy to change. You will need someone to hold it open while you install the new one.

Hope it turns out well for you, we just replaced one in ours from the junk yard, seems fine now but I guess time will tell.

Thanks for the tip on where to get the transmission for my Legacy, I got it for 650.00 and it works great. Everywhere else I checked was closer to 1,000. If someone else is interested in used Subaru parts the # is 1-800 252-7045 they ship U.P.S. and they are located in Austin Tx. I priced drive axles their and they are 35.00 and spinde and hubs are also 35.00 much better prices than I have been buying parts from other yards.