tcspeer

If you would like to learn to do your own bearing, I would suggest you get get a complete spindle and hub with bearing from wrecking yard. Install this on your car then get you a press from Harbor Freight and practice taking your old one apart. I posted step by step details on how to do this under the thread How to conquer the wheel bearing which you can find with the search feature here. Others here perfer the hub tammer, but the press can be used for other things also. The bearing in my 97 Legacy wagon are in one unit with three pieces, one race with the inner and outer bearing held in place with a plactic piece, until pressed in and then the plactic piece will be pushed out.

You might just need to check and be sure the elc. plug is connected good to the fan motor. I would get some elc. cleaner from Radio Shack (make sure it says safe to use on plactic on the can) and spray the heater control buttons. I use it on mine and it work goods.

The car is nice, I also like the river crossing picture, reminds me of some of the crossing here in Tx.

John is right, you do not need to remove the axle nut to get the drum off. If it does not pull off easy after removing wheel just remove rubber plug in back and retract the shoes with the star wheel. You will need to push the little adj. lever away from the star wheel, you can feel this when you get on it with a small screwdriver because the spring tenision is on it. Use another screwdriver to retract the star wheel, It's a little tricky at first but easy when you do it a few times. You will be pushing the handle of the screwdriver towards the ground, as the star wheel needs to turn upwards,from the back side of the backing plate.

Do you have drum brakes on the rear? if so you may need to adjust them. Pull the drums off and and make sure the adjustment star wheel is free.

What a great tip this is about turning the wheel and holding the spring, If you are the one that was first to post this Thanks. I have used this two or three times and it works great.

Go to junkyard dog on the web, there you can sign up and post what you need it is then seen by many yards around the country, they will E- mail you and tell you what they have along with cost. Their is a couple of places that will contact you everytime saying they have your part and they want you to call them, ignore them. the good ones there, and they are many will contact you with full information and cost.

Thanks, it sure fooled me. Things are not what they always appear to be. I once heard a quote that went something like this. Once a mans mind is streached to a new imagination, it is hard for it to reshape to the original. Once I seen it the way I did, i just didnt try to see it any other way. This crow sure dont taste good.

bratman, you are so right, After Nipper & Grossgary sent me a private message telling me I was wrong, I took another look and it was so clear, it was the light and the angle's that caused me to err so bad now as I look at the photo I can see the axle shaft so clear. It is like looking at hidden pictures in Highlights magazine they are so hid until you see them and then they stand out where you cant see anything but them. Another thing that threw me was the end of the axle being on the shaft, I just over looked it. To everyone here please forgive me for being such a jerk and full of pride thinking I was right. It is not the first time I have been put in place here, I do hope at age 56 I can grow up and not act so much like a child.

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The information in this post was useless so I removed it.

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300,000 is good, I had 288,000 on my 97 Legacy wagon and it was still doing well, but I let one of the timing belt pulley's come apart and the valves and piston's got together and made a mess.

Yes!!! 14 is gone, you are seeing part 12 in your photo #14 slids into it. Then the other end of the axle slides onto #14

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Removed by T.C. with my apology's to Johnceggleston.

Removed by T.C. to much foolisness by me in this post.

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Grossgarry, Nipper, where are you Guys at? I need some help here.

The stub axle is about four or five in. long it is spined all of the way around it goes in the hole of the diff. you can see this in pic. the other end goes in the end of the drive axle and is held in place by the pin you have marked. It is gone! Simpreza2 needs to go find it so he can get his car back together. I think the one you have circled is a rust spot, if you look close you can see it looks more like a star then a round hole for the pin. Where are the spines on the end of the drive axle? Are you going to slide that into the other hole and drive a pin through it and expect it to hold?

The stub axle will have a small hole through the shaft, when it slides into the hole at the end of axle, the part where you see the pin sticking up. The pin will then go down and through the stub axle shaft and come through the bottom side of the part you see in photo #1.

Does the front diff. on the standard share the same oil as the transmission I have not seen how the standard is set up.

http://bp2.blogger.com/_V6sLpU2JteU/SCO2E4AqoWI/AAAAAAAAA4g/nbTODvgXCiM/s400/Subaru.jpg Here is a picture of axle stub in transmission.