Gloyale

That white calcium is NOT from Subaru OEM coolant conditioner. It's gotta be some other "fix in a bottle" like Blue devil or something. It's definately not the green conditioner that subaru puts in. That stuff doesn't cake up like we are seeing here.

fuel pump from the RX will be needed for a swap. i'd EJ swap the RX if i were me. converting the 84 to AWD/4wd is more of a hurdle. More fabrication. for carrier bearing, and would need to source a full rear suspension and diff. none of the trans will bolt to the EJ without adapter or a case swap.

good description but technically water circulates though it from the lower passenger side of the block and returns it's water to the water pump.

no. they must be split. It's mostly so that the deck can be mounted true and parallel to the centerline of the crank. debris is an issue but true location is the bigger issue.

no. engine oil cooler sandwiched between the oil filter and the block.

not needed. part of the OE hitachi carb.

Belt may not be different. Kit difference could be water pump with or without second bypass port for oil cooler. Autos got Oil Coolers, MT's did not (mostly)

looks like the Bowl vent solenoid. Should not be part of teh no spark but it will consume TONS of gas without a working one.

Yeah, you would think but actually it ends up being a nightmare to keep them merged. It ends up being a nightmare to cleanly install. Easier in my opinion to set up as seperate harness, and then tie in the few items that need to be shared. I have several full TCU wire looms sitting around seperate from the Engine looms. What I meant is there is only TPS signal that has to be specific to the type of ECU you use. You can't use a 92 TCU with a 96 ECU......the TPS signals won't match. 90-94 ECU must use 90-94 TCU but could actually run any 90-98 trans. there is no MAF signal to any TCU of OBD 1 or pre 99 OBD II cars. Torque cut signal wire from TCU back to ECU isn't really required, it just helps the ECU adjust it's map when Torque converter lock up is cut, but it will work fine without. Either way....it's only one more wire. RPM and VSS get tapped in same place as the EJ swap ECU would tap in. Compatible with any pre 98 EJ or EA signals from vss and tach. Of course, yes you would need to supply the loom with a power supply and a ground, but there is nothing special about it, doesn't need to be "merged" or "match" the ECU setup. If stripped right, all TCU grounds will happen in the trans at it's main internal ground. No need to setup the diag connector unless you have a SSM lying around . Subaru OBD II in the early years did not allow TCU access through OBD port. Yes. And it would be far more efficient to do it that way than to undo an existing swap, strip down an entire new donor harness and reinstall it all. EJ swaps are alot of work to redo for no reason. Yeah, that would be silly to go that route rather than simply splicing in a few wires. 95% of the trans wiring is self contained in it's own harness already. Just gotta match your ECU to TCU type.

I really don't think so. Inner tie rods are essentially the same, and that's the weak link of the racks. Get a good EA82 power rack and throw it in there.

lack of oil changes

??? No different than a harness strip to run an EJ in an older subaru. Not that difficult in terms of getting the engine running. Now the DCCD control of the six speed? not hard, just $$$ for an aftermarket standalone controller. readily available though.

The TCU harness can be thinned out just like an ECU. The on;y issue is you must match the TCU type to the ECU type (i.e. OBD i or 2, and Proper Phase) I assume Phase i here, but yeah obd i or II is key as the TPS signal will be shared between teh 2. Other than that the entire TCU setup is standalone, and pretty easy to thin as there is only the 2 plugs to the trans unlike engine which has tons of connectors. PM me if you want to talk about getting one thinned down for yer car.

NO GATEs! -------chinese sub-standard junk that will kill your engine. Japanese (NTN or KOYO) rollers and Mitsuboshi or OE subaru belt. Contitech, meh....maybe. Paraut, Aisin or NPW water pump. FWIW, sounds like you have an XS. you will also want to replace the Camshaft and crankshaft end seals. I would invest in a tool that holds the Cam sprockets for removing the cam bolts to access the seals. like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX5P1Y8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06XX5P1Y8&pd_rd_wg=FhZf8&pd_rd_r=WDEEBGFSCXB2MH6F72R0&pd_rd_w=qvDFb

x = base model XS = higher end (heated seats and mirrors, rear discs, etc...) XT = turbo XT premium = turbo with premium interior and electronic controlled temp.

that's not the sleeve separtating. The sleeve doesn't extend to the top of the deck. top of the sleeve the seem is about 2~3mm inside the bore. The aluminum "caps" the top of the steel sleeve. also that is an optical illusion making the piston look closer on one side. Wouldn't hurt to mic it to make sure the bore is not out of round, but even if it was, you wouldn't be able to see it with the eye. That is unfortunately pitting at the fire ring. Based on the size of the water jacket that's a 2.2 right? so it will use the compostie gasket which should seal fine fine. If it's a 2.5, it will still probably be fine, for a while anyhow. y real solution to "fix" it would be to disasemble the block and split it and have the decks machined. .01mm is the limit....so that might not even take away those pits. Desperate? you could try to carefully fill and squeegie with JB weld. Then "resurface" with a straight block and fine sandpaper.

king springs through primitive.

You need a single pole Double throw without a center off. Basically both solenoids get one wire to ground each. doesn't really matter which, you could test for continuity to determine which wires are which, or start from scratch and run your own. Then the 2 other wires, one or the other should get 12v+ at any given time. Check the wires inside for 12v+ with key on. That is the supply, the other 2 are 12v+ out to either solenoid.

you will hate the manual AWD trans first time you got one wheel spinning in deep snow and can't go anywhere. Doesn't matter front or back, one wheel spinning = done with a standard AWD (DCCD 6 speed and modified/heavy duty vsld setups excluded)) The 4EAT (auto) will walk you out as long as you"ve got 2 wheels at an either end with grip. And will crawl better over rough steep terrain too.

what is the code # ? different sources apply different wording to the code.....so to be clear about what the issue is we need the number.

IIRC, ea81 tanks all have the clearance for rear diff, even the 2wd.

fixable. Might need to replace the ECU (it's under the passenger side carpet) Change all fluids engine oil, differential and trans fluid, rear diff fluid, brake fluid, and expect to need to do wheel bearings. other than that there is no reason to junk it if you can clean it to your satisfaction.

doh!

It' not uncommon for the bearings to not quite seat by hand all the way, but the force of bolting the case toghether may push the fully into place. To check if this is Ok in your case try one of 2 options. bolt the case together with bearings in but no crank., Measure the inside of the bearings, and then compare it to the diameter of the crank pins. OR...... Install the whole deal with the crank and all but put plasti-gauge strips int eh bearings and then open it all back up and inspect/measure the plasti-gauge strips to determine clearance.

For what reason? If anything use anti-sieze when you put the nuts on. Do not use ANYTHING on the end of the stud that goes into the head. Anything will act as a lube and will contribute to stripping the threads out of the head.