Gloyale

nuetral switch on side of trans? Not closing to tell the ECU you are in nuetral?

you still haven't done a proper leakdown. You rotated the engine and opened valves. Me thinks you're chasing ghosts. If the belt didn't break or slip, there is no bent valves.

o-rings where the cam carrier meets the head.

.010 Valve lash is too loose. assuming you mean inches. The subaru spec is .15 MM not .010 inches. which would be only .006" not yer leakdown issue but not correct either.

turn the crank 720 degrees and you will have opened both intake and exhaust valves on all cyls, lol. You don't rotate during leakdown. You set one cylinder to a point where all valves closed, and then fill cylinder and see how long it takes to "leakdown". Read result. Then rotate 180 to the next cyl, then repeat. Don't rotate the crank during the test or you throw it all off. you could pull the T-belt off and set all valves closed (Pass hash up, Drivers hash down) then you could rotate all day....still will throw off readings as you will be compressing and "decompressing" the air each time the piston goes up and down in the bore.

the regulator from an EA82 car can be modified to fit.

wh are you rotating during hte leakdown? set the cam to where the cyl you want to test is closed. Hold the crank from turning, fill the cyl with compressed air. FWIW, these aren't aircraft engines. They won't hold 100% ever. If it's mostly holding and not just wooshing straight out it's probably fine.

OPs car in this thread would not have this MAP setup.. his is on the top of the intake.

In your 2nd pic, the item behind the one held in your hand, that is the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor or MAP (not MAF) they seldom fail, but it is a possible source of trouble. At least check around it and all of the intake manifold for air leaks.

looks wet above the thermostat housing. I am guessing water pump. They aren't always noisy, and can leak quite a bit of coolant when they fail.

cruise faulting and rev limiting tied to CEL? sounds like a VSS issue.

manual or auto? again, will it rev past 4K? if not there is a problem likely with teh Speedometer connection to the ECU. defaults to a rev limited state...right around 4k. checked the CEL yet?

you will need to use a set of 95+ rear axles to use the 96 rear diff. 95 + diffs have internal engagement, with axles that have stubs that go into the diff. OR alternately you could swap the ring gear onto the 92 carrier and keep the diff's external stubs that way.

you mean MitsuBOSHI belt. different company. They are great belts and supply many of the OE belts to Subaru. mitsubishi does not make belts.

the real fix is to replace the O-ring on the input shaft. Trans-x has NOT fixed every issue for everyone whos tried it. It DID NOT work in 2 99's I tried it in. On;y replacing the o-ring did. I am wondering why Rooster is so promotive of it. Does he work for them? IDK But at any rate take this "Fix" with a grain of salt. Trans-x swells the rubber seals and "etches" the driven plates. I do not think that is long term good for the trans. My personal opinion would be to avoid this product.

Yes his 98 has the DOHC 2.5 (EJ25D) Should have replaced it with a 2.2 but anyhow.... My guess is the spark plugs and/or there is an air leak between MAF and throttle.

check the ECU pinouts for any year. There is a reason that they provided this signal to teh ECU for proper startup. Many threads about no start EJ Swaps before they hook up this wire.

92 MT is 4.11 92 AT is 3.9

First off...there is NOT a neutral safety ANYTHING in a manual trans subaru. There is a clutch switch interlock, so you can't start without depressing the clutch. No codes for ECU not connected to ECU. Nuetral switch in trans is to tell ECU wether it needs to idle rolling in nuetral to a stop or let you keep rolling, pushing the engine when in gear. It may not start actually. It must see the cranking signal to properly set mixture for cold starting. Many people end up with no starts on EJ swaps from not connecting the start circuit to the ECU. Sometimes it will still start, but with excessive cranking needed. Ebay plunger sets are notorious for being incorrect. contacts may work, but the plunger length may be wrong. I stopped buying any Ebay parts they've gotten so bad. Just be careful.

Not just repinning. The AWD control is different, uses 3 speed sensors, Different TPS signals, etc.... you must use a phase I trans. 90-98 If you want 4.44....(which you don't need, you'd be fine with another 4.11) But if you want 4.44, get a trans from a 96-98 Automatic Legacy Outback (not-outback sport) or from a 98 Forester. For 4.11 : 90-91 Legacy. 95-98 Legacy

one end clips to the Battery + post. The other end clips to the small spade on the rear of the starter (solenoid) You will want to connect a "double up" spade onto the starter, and then reconnect the original wire to one spade, and with your starter switch on the other spade. If you don't, the ECU won't see the signal for cranking voltage.

inside of exhaust port. Almost all the turbo heads crack like this. Doesn't cause running issues, because it's after the combustion chamber. But you will lose coolant, not knowing where it went (out though the turbo lol) and then overheat. This is the single biggest reason to avoid EA82T. You can fix and tend to all the other issues, and this one will still bite you in the rump roast. If you want to keep that RX start saving for the EJ swap now.

this happens to almost all the turbo EA82s CleanCrack2edit by Dans Subaru, on Flickr thats why i said keep the 84

A basic standalone switched setup 02061502_zpscsqtiizo by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And a setup that can toggle between standalone or "on with low beam" 02061503_zpskfpseh4g by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

course wire wheel in a drill makes short work of it. Don't use a cork gasket just reseal with "the RIght Stuff" RTV or equivalent Firm rubber curing RTV.