Gloyale

the 2 White wires at the Alt splice toghether and go then through the fusible link in the box. The other 2 wires are: 1) a tap off the 2 merged ALT output wires going into a Slow blow fuse block 2) the other side of the SBF coming out and on to main "BATT" circuit to the interior fuse box. Your problem is almost undoubtedly that wire fusible link. replace it with a 2 Inch section of 12 gauge fusible link wire.

Yeah, sounds like you've been exposed to a bit too much lead already. Step away from the keyboard, Mal'right........Your advice is bad, M'kay.

probably some fix in a bottle crap someone threw in at some point. Just use sandpaper and a block to clean it up and put hte new ones on. Seriouslty though....get the OE style. The triangular Fel-pro ones will fail sooner than you think.

The car in that video has alot of valve clatter and an exhaust leak. Can't hear anything over that.

neither of those things is essential i put discs on my 84 wagon, no grinding anything, and no proportioning valve works great.

also 4cyl XT non-turbo

opinions from those that have not done it most likely. Seriously, unless you are hard core drift racing, you don't need the swaybars. The car will have slightly more body roll but not much, and it will soak up uneven roads better so for most driving it will feel much better.

Not really any different. Maybe quicker ratio. Just as hard to find a good one. XT 4cyl is literally just an EA82 chassis with a fancy body. I look for nice 2wd loyales in the wrecking yard. They ussually have the best chance at being good non-leaking racks as they have not been abused offroading. But they are all nearly 30 years old now too.

For my 98 Forester, I pieced toghether a rebuilt 93 EJ22 using a set of 97 pistons. Matched "a" and "b" pistons to bores. Ever since the first fire up there has been a fairly noticable piston slap until warm. If it is average temps. say 40-80f it will not slap right away, but begins after a min or two and then keeps slapping until engine temp rises to reading on the gauge. But in cold wether it slaps right from the get go. It has done this for 40k miles now, never any shavings or oddities in the oil. runs like a top and doesn't slap after warmed up. I kinda like it now. it's got a cool rythm. I will worry if it ever changes.

nah just remove the links. it won't hit anything.

I drive at least or faster than 120k regularly. Just did a 500 mile road trip with lots of highway driving.. And I have 8 inches of lift, much more top heavy than your Outback. You would have to be cornering massively hard back and forth transition to even come close to upsetting the car to teh point of danger with no swaybars. Just remove the links. Leave the bars and ziptie up the ends.

I hasve no front or rear swy bar on my lifted 84. 31" tires and it still drives fine. Handles better than a stock jeep wrangler lol Never hads a worry about rolling or spinning out. Just a bit bouncy on rolling roads.

Yes the front one, a little lower than the other is reverse

check the cable mounting at the pedal box. Seen a few now were the mounting was flexing/tearing in the pedal box not allowing the cable to actually pull. A few reinforcing welds will fix it.

weld the tap onto the end of a bolt.

The rear sensor does not have an effect on the fuel trim. Only the front one. Rear sensor is for monitor of cat efficiency.

Yup. Once cam cases are fully sealed and torqued, you are good to go adjusting valves. Just make sure that the valves you are adjusting are closed.

yes. Fine for all out wheeler machines. Still annoying to pll axle for road driving. And I will never be convinced that driving with welded diff and axles in is "OK". Needless stress on drivetrain and actually could be detrimental to emergency steering i.e. swerve for deer or other. Not useful for people who drive on pavement a lot. And might just want a locker now and then on a rough road. like I said I am highly interested, just want a paper trail and assurance that I will actually get a product or a refund.

Replace the charcoal canister.

no just............no

It will if it's the newer style with solid stubs going into diff rather than hollow. DOJs.....meh......never had a problem except hyperextension. Get yer travel limits (i.e. bumpstops, shock length) correct and the newer OB/LEG/FOR DOJ with the male stubs will be fine. Rear outer RCVs almost never have an issue except torn boots. Snapped entirely axle shafts......well......still a problem. But I wheel with Toyota's, Jeeps, and Fords and they all have things that break too. Subaru is infinitely easier to repair on trail if you bring parts. I've dropped jaws by swapping a stub axle in 20 mins with one 1/4 drive socket wrench and a punch. Get the company to provide some real time estimates, and a recipt for payment recieved describing what and when they will deliver me a product, and I will drop the $......Gotta be legit paper trail though.

Click the link I promise it's not a phishing scam lol

crickets? Really?

H6 Outback= 4.11 Legacy = 4.11 Outback =4.44

I would pay $300 for one that was made and I could see a test of. Heck, I'd buy 2 However, I don't see 50 people throwing down $300 (or $600) a piece for a prototype run and then having it not fit or not work or someone walks away with $15,000 of our money.