Gloyale

You don't. you could make a longer trailing arm, but then your transverse links would be like this / / rather than like this l l No way without moving the ENTIRE rear suspension. Everyone that runs tires that size on an EJ car ends up trimming or hammering a bit. I would suggest you need a set of 96-99 outback struts, and the trailing arm mounts for the same outback. then a tiny bit of trim at the front of the wheel arch. even then a 29" tire is gonna be tight. you probably will also need a full 2"-4" of full strut top/blocked down lift to clear them well.

first you are all "i can't do a proper swap or fix just gotta slap in bearings blah blah......" Now you are all " I am gonna swap in a bigger motor real easy" Why not just get a good working, proper 2.2? They are one of the best motors subaru ever built. Or a JDM NON_TURBO Ej20 (2.0 version of same engine.)

uhg. 100mm? why? Your cylinder sleeves are gonna be paper thin now. On a phase I block? Now those tall barrels around the liner will be even more prone to vibration and losing Headgaskets. That engine won't last long.

Better way is to pull that one pin from the intermediate connection at the trans. Reinsert after testing.

The only alignment adjustment on the rears is on the inner pivot of the rear radius arms. Just mark where the eccentric bolt is set. Compare the arms while they are out, they are ussually exactly the same but sometimes new ones a hair longer or shorter. If they are the same, put it back the same. if not adjust. for difference.

Did the the "mechanic" test the Lock-up solenoid? Like ohm it out? There is a temp sensor in the trans, but if it was that the light would come on solid not blinking. He could have tested it with an ohmeter. Not sure this guy really is the right one to work on this for ya. If all he did was drop the pan and look, you paid for alot of nothin except new fluid. You wouldn't lose "overdrive" since these cars just have a basic 4spd trans. you still get all 4 gears. You could be missing the lockup and not really notice the extra 500~700 rpms your running on the highway.

Check that's it's not just the inner tierods.

that's crazy. No way. All the same stuff has to be unbolted. Alt, PS pump, AC if it has it, gotta pull exhaust, intake, EGR pipe on pass side head, etc....... for 4 more bolts you can pull the engine. Put it on a stand, and securely and easily work on the whole engine all around. Engine pull takes 45 mins. Getting all that stuff off and then getting one of the heads off......an hour an half at least. I don't ever do HGs in car. Too important of a job to have the partial access for inspection, cleaning, and careful reassembly.

resistance for the hitachi distributor D4r80-03 is pick-up coil per 82 FSM (should be same part in your brat) says 720 ohms. 2wd Nippondenso distributors are listed at 160 ohms. Sounds like Chiltons used that spec instead of the 4wd. Chiltons sucks for these cars. Frequent disinformation. Do not trust Chiltons for specs like that. Sometimes they are good for pictures but that's about all. I would kindly suggest pulling and reinstalling hte disty to make 100% sure you've got it timed right. double check the leads from the disty to coil. Make sure the Black wire is on + and the yellow wires on -

Nah, but I can tell you how. It wasn't hard. If you got a jigsaw, and a screw gun, a few round files and some sand paper and time.

Improper adjustment of the TPS's Idle switch circuit. When you are cruising, light throttle, so light that it closes the contacts on the idle switch. This triggers fuel cut for coasting/engine braking, becasue it thinks you are "off throttle". You feel car slow, then hit a bit more gas which opens the contacts of the idle switch but also already your way into the % throttle open range. This creates the bucking effect. You need to test and make sure the idle switch circuit goes open at no more than a hair off throttle. There is a spec for a feeler gauge to use. Im guessing around .20mm.

No. Just no. Starter would not engage. NOTHING to do with fuel pump.

So, you aren't using the key? Just turning the switch with a screwdriver or something? When you turn the little "t" shaped recess in the ignition switch, if you are pushing "in" too much it can interupt the contacts for the IG circuit while completing the starter circuit. Put a test light on the coil + and watch that it stays lit while cranking. Honestly. I think you are chasing the wrong things. The distys in these rarely ever fail. and the chance of 3 of them being failed in one vehicle and still no change. Nearly zero. There is something else going on. It sat for along time. Any sign of mouse damage?

Even if you had trubo stuff I wouldn't on an ea82 car. Not if you aren't racing it. 130 hp is plenty for a offroad Ea82

Lsi were not turbo. just fancy

well, not always. The system has no way of detecting a mechanical failure. One of the springs or clips in the rocker assembly could fail. I am not saying this is it, just a thought. It's worth at least checking under the valve covers if the issue is as bad as OP says. I still bet carbon buildup

Hey. Just a crazy thought. (aka drunk) What if the AVLS components on one or more valves are jammed in a way that the 2nd valve gets full lift always.? Either mechanically or from a Oil Solenoid fault? This would yeild more air, lean ratio, ping as timing and fuel are set for one valve per cyl full open off idle not 2?

yeah, the EJ cars the tank is even more vulnerable. i like your designs very much. I may have to borrow some ideas to apply to my Forester DD. it's stock, but i've got skid plates on front and on rear diff. I'd like to add an Auto Trans pan skid or at least a beefed up pan, and of course the gas tank guard. I don't "wheel" it, but every now and then i see a road or trail i want to try and i feel like i should be ready to try anything that presents itself without worry of catastrophic damage.

Are you swapping hte entire wiring harness into the DL? Like headlights, tailights etc? Way more work than needed to get a running EJ22. But I guess that's one way to put a tachometer into a DL. lol Also, I see a fuel pump, regulator, and plastic filter up there in the spare tire well. Please tell me that's not the pup your using? That is a low pressure pump. And that fiter is NOT meant to be pressurized to the 35+ psi that the correct type pump will run. you need a pump from a SPFI or MPFI GL/loyale or equivalent type replacement.

that's not from an 88. Unless you got Brats and Hatches in 88 in Norway. It looks to be an EA81 chassis components. Definitely a 4spd D/R trans.

in an 80 or 81 model?? the reason I ask is the lines are smaller in those first 2 years.

NA 87 4cyl XT in the US were basically the same as the later 88-90. First year of the spider intkae. there really is no !/2 year version here. The odd duck that is known as the 87.5 to us int eh states, is the 4Cyl turbo model w/digidash, air suspension and Spider intake w/turbocharger. Hotwire MAF and Optical disty. I have an FSM that covers this fuel setup, but otherwise the cars are the same as later 88+ oh and no turbo xt4 in 88 just the XT6. **** Important disty/ecu note **** All 87 (and 87.5) us models that used the optical disty, w/round connector, MPFI or SPFI, have ECU's with the Ref and Signal pins of the disty swapped. Only these 2 pins are reversed, and other wise disty and ECU can be swapped from other years. But you must swap the 2 pins at the disty....since ECU pin swap is more difficult but you gotta reverse the position of the Green and the White wires in the disty plug.

From the description of the location it is one of the 2 directly around the oil pump main output where the O-ring is. This is the worst case. What I would do is remove the pump. clean the area well. using leather or fiberblanket, make a protective layer over the oil pump cavity and make sure to block off the suction pipe and the output hole. using a mig welder w/ co2 argon mix......place a washer over the broken bolt. make a quick spot weld in the center. might take 2 qick zaps to build up the tack. Then place a nut onto the washer, and repeat to attach nut to washer and bolt head. LET IT COOL!!! after 7~8 mins, remove by turning nut with wrench. I defintely would not just run it like that. Recipe for disaster, main oil pressure loss.

just test the Alt output wire. unless you want to know what each device uses specifically.

Yeah. the double 180 degree loosening is a widely repeated mistake. After the first 180 they are floppy loose zero torque. Never seen it in a Factory FSM Typo following EJ engines around the Webs. Use subaru FSM data, not Alldata......trust me they are frequently misinformed unfortunately.