Gloyale

Pins, espescially that one are important. It keeps that bearing from spinning in the case, and keeps it from walking fore/aft where it could interfere with the pinion or the gear set. They should protrude about 2-3 mm above the bearing seat. If you find that a bearing has spun, and the seat in the case is worn/damaged it's a throw away.......or post apocolypse, you can take a slightly blunt point punch, and hammer "dimples" about every 5mm in a zigzag pattern. The edges of the dimples will be raised and provide for the clamping force required to hold the bearings still in the case. similar to knurling a piston. This is particularly important for that large input shaft bearing, as it has no pin to keep it from spinning.

this is either a timing belt break or.........since there is some spark still... more likely a rotor screw falling out. Infinite random timing generator

Grab the tail of that upper shaft and give it a wiggle. It should not move at all. If it does, that's the culprit.

I mean the large one at the rear of the input shaft. You will have access to it to check it if you have the transfer section off.

Most common failure I see is the upper shaft rear bearing. Pretty easy replacement if you open the trans.

Here's what I use for removal Don't know about this particular seller, the price is crazy low. But a tool like this from here or Harbor Freight or wherever, snap-on if you want to pay $600 for it. https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Puller-Hammer-Internal-External/dp/B00G1RXFVM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508102687&sr=8-3&keywords=hub+slide+hammer

It's thermovalve that was used on the EA81 manifolds. It's between the Intake coolant passage and the heater core return. It can be eliminated and use just a elbow or bendable hose to complete the connection.

Yeah, Really only GL-10's got the full sliding moon/sunroof. I did have an 85 GL with a pop-up/out sunroof form a VW that was pretty cool. And my 84, ea81 4wd sedan has a pop-up factory sun-roof too.

the gunk on those washer connectors is there to protect the contacts from battery acid, given their proximity. It's a protective lithium based di-electric grease. perhaps they re not making good contact?

So the Automatics use an electronically controlled, multi-plate hydraulic transfer clutch. There are 2 "common" ways it can fail.....although that is uncommon. 1: plates wear out, no friction. Very little drive to back end and lots of front wheel spin before it kicks in. Solution, replace the friction discs (or stack another plate set in there 2: Transfer (duty C) Solenoid fails, sends full power to rear drive all the time. Binding when making tight turns on pavement. Solution, replace solenoid. related to this is that the transfer drum can get grooves mashed into it from the torque bind, and then even after replacing solenoid, the plates can hang up in the grooves and still bind. If you find these grooves while replacing solenoid, you must lightly grind them smooth, or replace the transfer drum if they are too bad.

manual or auto? they have different failure types. Although it's really uncommon. they AWD is pretty reliable.

you will get improved caster angles if you spin those strut tophats 180 degrees.

+1 runs doesn't mean not damaged.

That would be a traction control system issue, not an AWD. unless your 02 outback is a VDC model, it will not "redirect" power anywhere. Power will go out the differentials through the easiest route. Which will be the wheel with the least traction. When a wheel spins, you need to let off the throttle enough to allow it to regain some friction with the road surface, then apply throttle again. repeat.

Swap the tank. It will make your life easier. But it shouldn't be your issue if you are losing fuel pressure. If anything a limited return line will yeild HIGH pressures not too low. Maybe you got a junk pump. I use a Walbro 255. It is loud, but works great.

there is only one adjuster. Not one per cable. One cable may be stretched. Or if someone has forced the piston back into the caliper without rotating it, it may have destroyed the helical self adjustment for the E-brake. I would replace that caliper.

Yeah. Based on the lack of understanding of how AWD and Differentials work, I would say you do need technical help on how AWD works. Lightly let up on throttle when this happens, and the wheels will not spin/engine rev.

Yes. Shifter would need to be modified. May even take swapping pedal box to get a clutch cable that works, may not.....not familiar with 1st gen swaps just second gen.

What flywheel did you use? Positive the friction disc is not upside down? (hard to do) Inspect the clutch fork and pivot?

yes. still quite a challenge. You'd want to get an 02/03 ECU and harness setup or just go standalone aftermarket. Other things needed: 90-94 turbo Legacy, 02-07 WRX, Baja Turbo, or 04-08 Turbo Forester crossmember larger exhaust system Upgraded brakes at least to Dual pot Outback or Forrester front calipers and upgrade to 00-04 Legacy rears. Or go full WRX brakes. Trans and clutch if you have a manual.......Gonna want to get a WRX or Turbo Forester or Turbo Outback 5spd and clutch set. You will need to upgrade to hydraulic clutch to use those trans.

Are the cams removed? You may just be seeing valves in their open state. But anyhow, if they are bent, it's probably from jumped time at some point. Valves will need replaced.

sounds like they may also have been wanting to reseal the trans oil pan as well. Which does NOT require removing anything but the pan itself and replacing the fluid. I suggest finding somewhere that knows Subarus locally other than the dealer.

Limit switches at both ends of the track and door switch are all involved. The unit itself is in the passenger side rear quarter panel area...above the rear wheel wells in the interior of the unibody behind panel. Whole system sucks in my opinion. I usually disconnect the motor and leave the buckle in the locked position on the pillar, and just unbuckle the belt each time. I actually like the motion of reaching down and then up/across shoulder to the buckle. As opposed to flipping my arm up and over to reach behind to get belt, and then pull down like conventional. That motion hurts my shoulder.

if you can post some pics I can try to identify. If it's a factory subaru carb it's a Hitachi. Also we need to see how the choke is operating. If you can post pic of it in warmed up state. might be just hanging up on the cam.

I would happily do a swap project. For alot less than properly rebuilding an EA82t.