Gloyale

There are 2 switches on the clutch pedal. One for starter interlock, the other is for the cruise control. the starter one is at the bottom of the stroke the CC one is high up, and should have continuity when the pedal is "up" and open when you step on the pedal. That same cicuit also loops through the Brake light switch too. There are 2 cicuits in the brake light switch. One is 12v in/out to brake lights. The other is noramlly closed, and opens when you depress the brakes. Again this is hte same loop as goes though the Clutch switch so both switches need to be continuous when neither pedal is depressed.

97,98 EJ22 heads have larger valves and roller/solid rockers which, combined with Cam profile are what make them inteference.

Guys....it's the EGR temp circuit code, not the solenoid code. The EGR temp circuit code would only be on cali spec models. You need to check the manifold and see if there is a sensor there right at the base of the EGR. If not, then that will explain the code. Either manifold swapped into a Cali car, or more likely a Cali ECU swapped into the Tennessee car. Just to be clear, it's actually lighting the CEL solid with a real code? You aren't interpruting the model code flash of steady 5-5-5-5........which IIRC would be a manual, 49 state SPFI car.

It's a DOJ type CV. Looks like a late 90's legacy driveline. Some models have this type, others it's just a Ujoint. My thought is that it won't have enough slip. it's not a slip yoke. When that axle starts going up and down that joint may not have enough travel. Scott, look into Nissan and Izuzu drivelines. Same input ends at the trans, and flange at the axle. Get 2wd model one from nissan will have slip section in it.

Thinking you meant 5000 lbs. You won't find any OE struts for ANY vehichle that will handle jumping a 5000 lb car. You will need Nitrogen charged long travel offroad racing struts to be able to jump and not blow out every time.

Wow......Subaru engines are going up in price around here. just paid $650 for a 96 EJ22 $1300 for a SOHC 2.5 Pick n' pull yards are a little bit cheaper.(still nowhere near the prices Gary quoted)......but when I'm billing customers I'd have to add that labor in too so I just have the yards pull them. Don't have time to search around for cheap engines and then pull them myself. Time is money.

Cable operates a gearset that is hooked to the flapper door in the ducting that controls how much air goes over the heater core. Go back to the bottom of the cable, and check to see if the gears that are operated by the cable are still engaged to eachother, and can move in full range of motion. If that is not the problem, then you may need to pull the selector cluster and see if the cable housing has pulled out of it's mounting.

Spec for idle on that car is 700 rpm +/- 100 ......so, that means 800 should still be acceptable. The inspector is being a picky jerk if he's saying 850 is too high. I would check all the vac hoses and replace any stiff/cracked ones. A tiny vac leak can cause a bit of high idle.

Pull the stereo and check all the connections. 9 times out of 10 when there is a short, it's from wiring that was messed with not the factory wrapped and connected harnesses. I'm sure you did a good job but we all make mistakes.

You definately got FWD struts. That part # you gave doesn't even come up as a good KYB #. You want KYB 341065 for 4wd. 341065

Spark plugs + wires or maybe a Cam Position sensor. All 3 are easy to swap out to check.

Disconnect horns, try again Repeat for each load item on that circuit.

Hmm......No yard around here sells 2.5 heads for $65 bucks......espescially not pulled already. 2 heads for $150? Either the yards in CA are super cheap or you are maybe a bit out of touch with what heads for a PHASE II 2.5 cost. I just paid $1300 for the last used 2.5 I bought........and it probably needs headgaskets.......grrrrr......anyhow. And besides, there is no need to buy new heads. First off, get a T-belt, and install it and then retest for compression. you may have gotten lucky, espescially if it's an automatic trans. Then if you do have bent vavles, likely you will. pull the heads and have new vavles installed. Definately don't order headgaskets from Ebay. Dealer only or you will be doing them again.

That could also be a 2.0 version of that engine. Could even be an 1.8 JDM market had alot of them. Heads, timing belt, everything else is the same but smaller displacememtn. Look below the alternator at the front of the block. Will say either EJ18, EJ20, or EJ22.

It's not a simple relay. But there is a "control unit" It's mounted up above the hood latch pull. Has 4 or 5 wires into it. The yellow wire is tach signal wire, if this wire is not recieving the pulse from the coil, it will not power hte pump, or the solenoids on the carb. The blue/black wire is 12v out to the pump......put a test light on it with the car running, and watch to see if it stays consistent.

4wd happens at the back of the trans. lo range reduction happens up front. single range boxes do not have the 2nd rod that connects the rear's 4wd shifter rod, to the front, were the LO would happen.

The compressor will not engage for a few reasons. #1 Low pressure in the system. If there isn't enough pressure, the switch by the dryer will not pass power through to the circuit that drives the clutch. Test for 12v on the BY wire into the switch(no volts = problem with microswitch under dash) and 12v on the RW wire out of switch(no volts = pressure too low) #2 Sensor on the front of the pulley out of place, disconnected. This sensor must make a magnetic pulse, that pulse is seen by the pulser/relay mounted up behind the glove box and in turn the relay engages clutch. If the sensor doesn't pulse, then the relay won't close the clutch circuit. Not sure how to test. #3 Thermoswitch in the evaporator closes grounding circuit of the pulser relay. test RB wire at the pulser for continuity to ground...disconnected from pulser. #4 Compressor clutch itself failed. Jumper 12v to clutch to manually check if it engages.

It's the intake tube. Acts like an elk call.

Valve not sealing correctly. Rule this out with a compresion test. But if the injectors Ohm out O.K. then I'll bet it's a burnt valve.

It's not rigged. They just don't bother explaining that the Subaru has either a VLSD, or traction control (VDC)). Nothing was rigged. The Subaru did it. the others could not. I will say though that testing a Manual trans subaru would not have done so well unless it was VDC not VLSD. And I dont think the VDC models come in manual.

This. Look at the side of teh trans. If there is a long rod with balljoints at each end running along the side of teh trans, it's a D/R. No rod, Single range.

They should be installed OPPOSITE from how they are shown in this picture.

My bet is the rubber mount at the BACK of the shifter mechanism has come apart, allowing the shifter to rub on the driveline. Especially pronoucned when the trans lifts at the back slightly like under decel or hard reversing. The 2wds are also known for wallowing out the rollpin hole that holds the shifter "u-joint" yoke to the shaft. Similar to the older 4spds. Seach General Disorders thread on the 4-spd sloppy shifter fix.

Check the hoses at the thermo vacuum valve are intact and hooked up correctly according to the sticker under hood or FSM

Yeah, and a "built" VW motor makes about what a stock EJ22/25 make. They are typically in much lighter cars than our subarus too so the load seen is lower. They leave the bolt out because it's so F$#$in hard to get at behind the oil cooler. doesn't make it good practice, and I've seen the bad results of that too. I owned VWs for years before subarus.....there is no comparison. Do what you want but you will wipe out your Throwout bearing, Pilot bearing, and over time the trans input shaft if your adapter plate is off center, or shifting around under load.