Gloyale

Turn off the switch on the top of the steering column.

The right side is actually the output from pump. Passenger side. Although I would suggest using the ports on top of the block fairtax mentioned.

I am gonna say master cylinder. Hillholder on that model would only affect the left front. Older ones it was a set diagonally, front/left rear/right. But somewhere around 94 they went to just the front left.

Yup. I made that thread during the teardown of my own 96 legacy Outback 2.2 trans. Yours will be identical except the # of teeth on the ring and pinion.

+1 Take care of both the covers. leave the main alone unless it seems to be gushing oil. A bit of weep, leave it.....best not to replace those unless spliting case.

4.11 low was nice. AWD viscous center not so much.

There is not an o-ring or any sealant used on the backing plate. Just loctite the screws. There is not supposed to be any gasket on the oil pump. Espescially not paper. Use a good sealant. Something that actually sets though, not that stinky blue smeary stuff for "racing" applications or the High temp Orange stuff either. I wouldn't use that 518 either. Looks smeary and will leak within a year or 2. I'm telling you. Permatex "The Right Stuff" is the best. There is a small o-ring that seals the passage. Good quality blue rubber O-ring from subaru is best....but any good rubber o-ring will do for 5 years or so. Install the crank seal AFTER you have reinstalled the pump.

I built one using EA D/R front halves and an EJ lower shaft and tailsection. Turned material off the Hi-Lo shift collar, and ground the edge off the 4.11 ring gear. Worked well except EA and EJ gearsets have different profiles to the teeth. Blew up second gear after 2-3K miles. That's why the FT4wd EA gearbox is needed to complete the swap. Recipe: EA D/R case and upper shaft, with FT4wd gears pressed onto it. 4.11 EJ lower shaft with FT4wd gears pressed onto it. FT4wd difflock or AWD rear section will work. Use appropriate spacer on the pinion shaft for which ever you want to use.

Definately won't plug and play. 2000 is Physically shorter by 2" and all the electronics are different. If you do remove it for anything replace the O-ring on the input shaft.....helps ALOT with the Delayed engagement.

I'll bet they left out the large circlip that holds the outer race. I doubt the spindle is damaged.

Yeah that maroon is one of the worst. IIRC 87 was the first year were some models got 2 stage paint. Maroon being one of the colors.

Offset is in the piston. Wristpin hole is offset .5mm to reduce "walking" at the top of the stroke.

EA82 shafts have "pads" to denote the slight variations for FWD, 4wd, and Turbo models. I don't believe EA81 have that.those pads. and that is only on original suabur parts. The new crap from china doesn't have those pads.

You can install the offset pistons with an old crank and vice versa. The crank and rods are the same only piston changed. And the pistons can be swapped without splitting the case halves. You just need to make sure if the pistons have arrow......make sure they are pointed forward. I am still baffled about what pistons those may be. They really look like EA82T pistons, but the dish is not nearly deep enough to be those (7.7:1 comp) Perhaps EA81t??? weren't they 8.5 Comp??? They are the only pistons I don't have here to compare.

Make sure it isn't balljoints/tierods first. Also, it's worth checking the condition of the pivot bushing in the control arm. If you don't have wheel play and grumble......I would suspect wheel bearings ONLY after all those other things are checked. In my experience you almost always get wheel play and grinding sound before a bearing is bad enough to shake while driving.

That is actually almost the same part as the AAV used on XT models with the Spider manifold.

Nope. M11 x1.25 Very hard size and pitch to find taps and die for. Not impossible.......but very hard. I gave up just used an old bolt and cut grooves long ways down the side to make a block chaser. Got any spare bolts???

I don't think they had 4eat Dual ranges. Manuals with 1.44 low and AWD center diffs.

Cool. Alough thinking about it....not sure if the enamel is "better" paint but lasts longer. It's pretty dull and ugly though.....especially the white ones.....blah.....yuck.

The problem arises from the fact Subaru called 2 completely different cars, the SAME NAME! Wagon/Sedan/Coupe GLs are EA82 cars. These are the ones that use the "longer" shafts. The bigger jointed one is for the turbo cars. Hatches, and Brats GLs (and DL's) are EA81 cars. Carryover models from the older line of the early 80's But when you try to order for an "86 GL" you get parts for both.....mostly EA82 cause there are more of them in the later 80's. To make it worse...each had a 1.8 engine......differnet 1.8 engines! To avoid this just order for an 84 Brat. This will exclude the EA82 cars from the list because they started in 85. I'd be like ordering parts for a Jeep " Cherokee" and getting parts for a "Grand Cherokee" Though it sounds like they got you the right one now. EA81 shafts are about 2" shorter than the EA82 shafts. Compressed lengths will vary slightly, it's the installed length that needs to be right.

90,91=4.11 final drive. 92-94=3.9 95-99 should be 4.11 ( Ex. LSi, GT and Outback) Plug and play. Might have to swap the cable Speedo for the 90 to the new trans. Rear mount plate may be slightly different too but swappable.

You need to cut out the top part of the lower core support. You can reinforce afterwords by welding in a piece of angle iron into the notch created. Drill holes in the angle first for the pins on the EJ radiator to sit on.

NAh.....that still doesn't have the holes in the correct place for the water passages in the EJ22 heads. There needs to be a hole dead center above the bores. That gasket the holes are off to each side a bit around each bore.

O-ring on the passage Sealant around the rest of the flange. I preffer "the right stuff" brand from permatex. But any good quality black or grey ATV will do. Although I will say "the right stuff" will work longer, and it sets up quicker too.

First off.....That word in that context is offensive hate speech. The mentally challenged community and society as a whole is pretty clear on that by now.......I would have thought....... But your cultural ignorance and insensitivity aside.......... Your contribution had nothing to do with the topic. Mine did. So who's ruining threads?