Gloyale

There is absolutely no reason to use new bolts. They are steel bolts threading into an aluminum engine. If you torque them too hard you will rip the threads out of the block before coming anywhere close to breaking the bolt. FelPro perpetuates this myth so they can sell you $100 worth of totally unneeded bolts. Subaru does not advise replacing them and their dealer service departments don't replace them. Again, this is a myth.....not applicable to subarus.

Is the car A/C equipped? If not, the ground for the relay should go through a few of the big connectors behind the fuse box, and then on out to the ground bolt that is on the drivers side strut tower. Check that bolt.

More tidbits. Comparing pictures of pistons in the various years FSMs I found that the pistons with the longer skirt, and more of a "squared" shape to the cutout under the wristpin, match the description of 85,86 sedan/wagons and 87 MPFI non-turbo XT. All the non-turbo pistons 87+ are shorter skirt (20 mm) and have a more curved profile under the wristpin, as well as being offset wristpins with arrows indicating left or right side of engine. Soooo.....since there is no vent/baffle on the back of block, we can assume it's not an XT block. Must be 85 or 86 N/A either carb or SPFI. Now to get weird. 85 FSM shows 2 different compression ratio for carbed cars. 9.0 and 9.5 both using the same cams. The 9.0 was in all wagons and GL sedans. the 9.5 was only in the DL sedans. Then on to 86. Carbed cars......9.0 retaining the same cams as 85. SPFI cars (FWD wagon/sedan) are 9.5, with new cams with longer duration. '87 Carbed 9.0, SPFI 9.5......all using the new SPFI cams, and all offset with arrows. Side note* this use of SPFI cams in the 9.0 carbed is why I set 87 model carbed cars to 20 deg. BTDC timing instead of 8 deg. BTDC like older carbed cars. I think Fuji was doing away with carbs, and didn't bother adjusting the timing spec with the new cams.

Yes it will fit. But it begs the question, why wasn't the pump changed out while the timing belt was off for the HG's? I would not put a used pump in. Not worth the work for the risk. Get a new one, and use a metal subaru gasket.

The bearing in the column is probably toast. Seen it several times.

Autozone only scans OBD II cars. Any 94 or OLDER subaru needs codes pulled using D-check or U-check modes (green and black connectors)

FWIW, I repaced a faulty sensor in a 2001 legacy recently. The old ones had two seperate sensors, one for the gauge, one for the ECU. Sometime around 99 they cahnged to one sensor with 2 circuits in it. This is the type that was in the 2001. As I warmed up the car the Temp gauge went very high, very quickly...... not immediate, seemed related to engine temp/time running but only idling 5 mins the temp was almost to red. I hooked up the car to a scanner that showed real time data .The the ECU showed a temp of only 145, not even warm yet. By the time the thermostat opened, and the car was at normal temp......the gauge was PEGGED to the max in the red. But the ECU only showed 185, and that matched the engine condition which was not steaming or boiling over, not actually overheating at all. In the end, I swapped the sensor on the coolant tube, and all was normal after that. The owner had been to 3 shops, had head gaskets, radiator, thermostat and fans changed to solve "overheating" when in fact it was just a faulty sensor lying to the gauge. Could have saved himself $2000 in parts and labor.

Fusible link box. Check the main spade into it and the spades of the links themselves. If OK, then test IG. switch.

ECU fan signal wire can be connected to the yellow wire at the A/C relay.............OR............ if your car doesn't have A/C, simply disconnect the thermoswitch in the radiator, and hook the ECU signal wire to the yellow wire that grounds the fan. But this leave teh ECU grounding the full fan load, not just a relay.

let me guess, you got a 2" over stock lift kit? with no drop on the crossmember? Loosen the inner boot small clip, and then slide it up the shaft and reclamp. Keeps it from being stretched all the time and ripping.

Alignment will affect tires, but not the AWD.

I'm thinking this is an early SPFI block. Like from an 86, 2wd non-turbo GL. First off, there is no arrow desingnating which direction is front. that means these are not offset wristpin pistons. That puts them in 85-86 ranges. And SPFI would on;y be in 86 and would be 9.5:1 compression vs. 9.0 carbed. My best guess.....but definately not offset so pre-87 for sure. Also, all EA82 blocks are threaded for knock sensor.....look closely.

+1 espescially plugs and wires.

I've got a customer local here with 3 of them on an 81 DL FWD 1600 wagon. He woudl happily part with them in trade for some stockers and a bit o'$.

A tank and pump from an Fuel Injected L-series (MPFI or SPFI) will work and have baffles to prevent starvation in corners adn braking.

hate to argue but the Legacy raditator will not just "Bolt right in" to a loyale. Legacy radiator is taller by a few inches. There is no way unless you modified the lower support of the car. Also, what hoses are you using to attach EA82 to larger diameter fittings that would be on a Legacy radiator? If you used the stock hoses then you didn't get a Legacy radiatorl. I am guessing he just found you an all metal Loyale radiator. Because Legacy radiators are also plastic and aluminum.

If not balljoints/tierods/wheel beraings, then go to the radius rod bushings.

Gotta just drive out the pin wtih a small punch

Older GL's used a very heavy duty enamel paint. Single stage, no clearccoat, thick and chip resistant. Some colors of late 80's GLs and all Loyales they changed to a base coat/clear coat 2 stage type. These tend to peel the clearcoat. Many older cars that have had body work also got a 2 stage, so sometimes parts of an old GL will peel, while other sections are still enamel.

Why did you remove the charcoal canister?

Front of the rack, right on the other side of were the steering shaft comes in. there is a large, thin, flat locknut (36mm, 40mm?) and in the center is a 14mm head bolt. Loosen the lockring, tighen the 14mm bolt in the center, and then tighten locknut. You may need to drop the rack down a bit to unlock the large nut.

Pumps rarely "fail" But it is a good idea to remove it, tighten/reseal the screws that hold the back plate on, and then reseal it. There is no "gasket" for the oil pump. There is an o-ring, and the rest of the perimeter of the pump body gets sealant. I like permatex "The Right Stuff" but other RTV types will do. I've never needed to take out the large hex plugs. Replace the crank seal AFTER you reinstall teh pump. Having the seal in place can make it difficult to get a perfect line up and seal. Too many problems smearing sealant or rolling the lip of the seal. Just drive it in after like any other seal.

Definately the older ones you would CUT all voltage to the solenoid to give full pressure to the AWD clutch. Not sure if the newer ones are reverse as Presslab stated above. Either way that's the track you need to be on....a switch on the Transfer solenoid.

98 should be a hydrualic clutch. Just unbolt the slave and set it aside. Everything else will be the same.

Was the oil pan removed and resealed during the headgasket? I've seen EJ's burn lots of oil when the o-ring that seals the vent tube that submerges in the back corner of the oil pan. Can't quite figure how, but twice now pulled engines for HORRIBLE oil consumption, and BOTH had no o-ring on that tube. I believe it's supposed to be sealed and submerged in oil so no airflow moves up that tube. Serves as the drain back for any other oil in the PCV system, but when it's not sealed at the bottom it becomes a source of sucking oil/vapors from low in the engine instead of up high at the Valve covers.