Gloyale

The old Cruise systems won't work over 70. I've read it in owners manuals. And sincve it's basing that speed on a simple 4 pulse/ rev reed switch I imagine it could be off a few MPH. My OE ea81 crusie never worked (probably after the digi-dash removal, they never hooked it back up. So I Installed a Legacy vac pump, cruise computer, and an EA82 pedal box w/diaphrahm. It's wired in to the factory EA81 controls to look stock. Works up to 85 now. (as if my EA81 w/3at 4WD would go that fast)

if you didn't replace the trans with another turbo trans, you may need to install a regular, non-turbo ECU. The turbo trans have slightly differnt valve body, and aaccordingly have a different TCU. I put a turbo trans into a non-turbo car and theTCU caused problems, as soon as I put the turbo ECU in everything was normal. Easy plug-n-play swap for the TCU's

I think it's because these gaskets still have an entire side coated in a thin rubber type material. Where the material is exposed to the openings in the head, the layer flakes off, eventually clogging raditors, and leaving a ragged edge that I feel is the way that the combustion pressure start to seep under the gaskets. The newest MLS type have what seems to be a soft metalic coating on all the mating surfaces, but none on the open/exposed area.

The rear tops will not fit. Later Legacies and Impreza (and forresters) have a slightly wider, and not equalateral, bolt pattern. You will get more lift, and clearance for tires by simply installing outback struts. Front Outback struts/spring assembly will bolt right in, rears you will need to swap your OE tophats (possibly springs) onto the Outback struts. Springs will depend on whether or not your springs are the tappered top type.

Original gaskets have no specific marker in the exposed corner. First style of MLS (which may have been used at factory by 99) has Rivets with open holes though them. Second (newest style) MLS have detents stamped in the corner, but not an actual rivet with hole through. so look at the upper exposed corner. Solid = graphite Rivet w/hole = early MLS Stamped Detent = Current MLS

You could easily swap the 1.8 wiring harness onto the 2.5 engine. Probably have to swap thorttle bodies though to keep the matching TPS. As you have pointed out, there would still be the issue of a knock sensor......don't know what to say but sure it could be solved.

ugh.......that will work for a while. Then the first hot day you'll overheat cause now your radiator is full of "sealant" Funny how people ask for advice on a forum and then don't listen to answers

You can, but when the tool is ussually less than $10 bucks...........and makes it SOOOOO much easier (nearly automatic) I preffer using the tool. Same tool ussually has slots for pulling the door card clips as well so its a win/win

1. Puchase 2 new front wheel bearings, About $150 or less 2. Remove your existing knuckles 3. take the knuckles and new bearings to a maching shop, and have them press in the new bearings, shouldn't be more than another $100-150. That's half the price of the ridiculous $750 quote you got. And you'll have new bearings, instead of another set of old ones waiting to wear out.

If the headgasket is just leaking externally, you are fine to keep on running it. If it's not losing coolant, making smoke, or overheating, you are fine. I've had EA82s with weeping HGs before, and as long as you keep them full of oil and coolant, they will keep on running. $1800 is WAAAAY too much for the HG job. Ridiculous. I don't even charge that for EJ25s I'd say $1000 tops. $250 parts $200 machining $550 Labor

Okay, first a model and year would help. But it sounds like you've got an 82-84 GL with an EA81, and the two filter setup. There is one filter under the car, in front passenger side rear wheel. This one has only 2 lines, The second filter, is in the engine bay, near the strut tower. this one has 3 lines.....Fuel in, Fuel out, and a vent out the top, and is probably the one he gave you. This one may have been removed and replaced with a non vented one......the vent hose comes out of the firewall just to the side of the Vaccum booster for the brakes.

Yeah, you'll need to stick to the 87 wiring harness, intake, and distributor. There are a few differences in connectors. And there is a difference in the pin arrangement on the disty for 87 vs. later years. The Reference and pulse wires are reversed, so if you need to use a different disty for any reason, you have to swap the pins in the connector for the disty. None of that matters if you just swap your disty and intake onto the new engine.

You can cut out the large white wire, and the ALT plugs. YOu just need to save the ends of the ALT plugs to slice onto the EA wiring, you won't be charging through the EJ harness, you'll be using the original EA ALt wiring except for the ends. NO wires should be attached directly from the battery, if you want ot pull your constant power from the Battery, it needs to be fused. I personally like to take power from the fuse box. Looks cleaner and will be fused and fusible linked.

You can cut out the large white wire, and the ALT plugs. YOu just need to save the ends of the ALT plugs to slice onto the EA wiring, you won't be charging through the EJ harness, you'll be using the original EA ALt wiring except for the ends. NO wires should be attached directly from the battery, if you want ot pull your constant power from the Battery, it needs to be fused. I personally like to take power from the fuse box. Looks cleaner and will be fused and fusible linked.

You forgot custom lengthed driveline.....needs about 2 inches added to teh front section.

Sweet. Looks great. I think I would've put it on the other side so it didn't block the "over the shoulder" view out the back......but it's still awesome. I've been wanting to make one of these for my cars........I'm definately taking notes.

Uh...... I've put SOHC 2.5 pistons into a DOHC block,crank,rods.......works fine. I've also compared SOHC and DOHC 2.5 rods side by side, they are the same. The one difference in the setup is the piston height, and also the length of the wrist pins. SOHC pistons are "shorter". And they have a wider (width clip to clip, not diameter of pin) wrist pin hole which uses the longer wristpins.

Well, it would have to be a scan. Books are copyrighted, and the publishers want money (even FHI) for them. That said, there are some scans of some FSMs out there. Just gotta search.

Look inside the door pillar for the VIN tag. It will have tire sizes on it.

I'm kinda far away, but I've got fenders, a good bumper, and a radiator if you need them......kinda need to get rid of stuff so I'd be glad to donate it.

Bingo.......unless you swap pistons, you'll lose compression. Swapping pistons does not require splitting the case, but you will DEFINATELY need the oil pan off and the engine on a stand.

The crossmembers are the same, PS vs. NON......it's just that the way they are assembled, you can't really take the rack out of a PS crossmember without driliing out the spotwelds that hold the Jackplate. And in fact, lot's of the late 84 EA81s had a bolted on jack plate like the EA82. So you might get lucky and be able to bolt in a PS rack. Then you would just need the pump, lines, mount, etc...from an EA81 w/PS. Not really that hard. Easier in my mind than swapping the whole darn crossmember.

I've got a JDM 2.0 block I'd love to part with if anyone wants it.

Works for EA82 power steering....not sure about EA81 3" or 4" (4" barely makes it, but it works....due to the long flat spot on the column end of the shaft.)

4 inch lift on an EA w/power steering? You should be able to use a stock Legacy Outback steering coupler (96-99)