Gloyale

Are you using the correct mark on the Crank pulley? The Keyway should be straight down at TDC, and the little mark on the ear on the cran k pulley.

You need a new radiator.

Could also be at the top of the fuel filter, were the vent line comes off the filter.

Code 35 is just for the airflow meter. You have the oddball old SPFI system that uses different codes than all the others. But most of the parts are still the same. I think you have a bad MAF, or it isn;t completely hooked up (clamps on the snorkel? all the PCV hoses hooked up?) Good news is you SHOULD be able to use any SPFI MAF from 86-94 GL/Loyale

Great. You are gonna love it. BUt I want to point out something very important. IT IS a 3-door. If you call it a *hatchback* you will get EA81(Brat,Hatch,Old Wagon) parts. Almost none of which are interchangeable. And you will confuse people here on the borad. EA82 = 3-door or coupe. EA81 = Hatch Welcome to the board

Yeah, but you really don't need those. Leave that bar up in place, there is no need to drop it unless you are going 4" lift or more(NOT including strut lift) and then only drop it an inch or two.

TPS, RPM, and Speedo.

EA81 and EA82 lines come from the front of the tank. Not entirely up on top. You don't need to drop the gas tank IIRC

Yes, see my post above

Did you install them backwards? pushing the tops of the strut out instaed of tucking it in?

You said that there is 12v to the pump connector. You mean the one back at the tank? If you are getting voltage there, the relay is not the problem.

all that code means is that the Oxygen Sensor is outputting bad data. The computer has no way of knowing if the bad data is because the Catalytic Converter is bad, or if the Sensor itself is faulty. Sensors go bad alot. Catalytics on the other hand, well they are chunks of metal with no moving parts......not really prone to failure ya know. Replace the sensors first. 90% of the time, that clears this up. Then if you do need a new cat(s), you have brand new sensors ready to go in them.

BUt if it was going on an EJ, the different bolt holes would not matter. What I'm saying is, an EA81 Flywheel can be used in an EJ swap. With a 4spd D/R just by hogging out the crank bolt holes. OR....with an EA82 5spd and clutch if it simply had about 2mm turned off the base The step, friction face, and clutch plate bolt holes are all the same between EA81 and 82 flywheels. The major difference is the overall thickness.

Many models had the *redundant* belt arrangement. It works well, as long as both belts are the same type and age.

EA81 and EA82 Flywheels are very similar. Same depth step, and the EA82 clutch bolts on. Difference is EA81 Flywheel is about 2 or 3 mm thicker. It wouldn't be hard for a machinist to cut some meet off the back. This is just what it looked like to me comparing the 2, but I haven't actually tried it. either way would require hogging out he bolt holes.

Well sure enough....I went to the shop today to test the theory that this pin swap on the ECU was the cause of my SPFI EA81 failure.........Swapped the White and Green wires in my disty plug, and bam......I now have spark and a running fuel pump while cranking....and a bit of timing to do still with the Disty. I just picked up a radiator today from Hondasucks so thankfully I will now be able to actually be able to test drive if I do get it running.

Bad wire from pump connector to pump. Unscrew the wires, solder a new wire up using the old connector ends, and reassemble. But hmmm.....if you are running the pump by powering the connector end of the wires, then the wire must be good....idk...you're on the right track for sure.

Good to hear all went well. As a note.....What you are reffering to is not the hub, it is as you note(?) the outboard CV. The hub is what the wheel is bolted to and the bearings inside it, known as wheel bearings. The only other thing I can think of is that you're bearing may have seperate and the inner race come out? still there is no way if it was bolted in on the outer end.

That would simply yeild a a single range EJ part time 4wd, as the Dual range action all happens on the mainshaft before the gearset in the front section of the case. And really that wouldn't work with shaft lengths and diameters anyhow. The EJ main shaft is totally different. That is still the only option I can see working. There could be 2 combos . Combo One: FT EA82 D/R front case, upper shaft and gears, Lower shaft and gears. (Outer section and gearset only, remove the EJ center pinion. EJ 4.11 ring gear and pinion shaft (center section of 2 piece hollow lower shaft only) PT EA82 D/R hi/lo gearset swapped in if 1.59 reduction desired. Combo Two: P/T EA82 D/R front case, upper shaft . FT S/R EA82 Upper Shaft gears pressed onto D/R upper shaft , Lower shaft and gears and(Outer section and gearset only, remove the EJ center pinion. EJ 4.11 ring gear and pinion shaft (center section of 2 piece hollow lower shaft only) I believe either combo could work. although each requires parts from 3 transmissions, at least one of which is rare either way. *4.11 ring gear teeth must be ground off on the corner or they will hit the D/R shift collar on either set up *all of this is theoretical......my last attempt was at best experimental and grenaded, so use this advise at your own risk.

Did you also test the ground continuity at that connector? If so and it was good then bad pump, otherwise possibly not grounded well.

Well, O2 sensor issues can cause poor mileage and throttle response/power........but if you smelled burning rubber you may have a timing pulley seized, or other timing belt issue and youre belt is about to let go. I would suggest having the timing belt checked before even attempting to start the car once more Not to scare you too much, it is simple enough to inspect by removing the radiator fans, the Alt and A/C belts, the crank pulley, and then of course the timing covers. You should know quickly once the covers are off if there is any problem. If you have the money, you may want to install a new belt now even if OK, as you are about %90 there already. But seriously, check or have it checked.

NO. not without parts from a D/R FT EA82 trans as well.

No clip, but there should be a a big locknut on the outer endc of the hub? Didn't you remove that for the axle to come out intially? Or do you mean the Axle pulled out of the outboard CV joint?

Under dash, Near ECU. They are for putting the ECU into a test mode. They should be toghether for testing and disconnected for all other operation. If you have spark, I would bet on the Relay. What year and model are we talking here?

Hmm......Motor to crossmember nuts are M10 x 1.25, and so should be the bolts that hold the mount to the engine. THough those should not have been disturbed for a reseal? And exhaust manifolds? do you mean the ASV spacer?