Gloyale

The AWD cars were Cable clutch until 97, so I doubt the FWD would be Hydraulic

Did you change the plug wires?

You can use a Legacy steering coupler, it is already extended about an inch compared to stock EA82 coupler.

96 Manual Outback will be a 2.2 with a 4.11 final drive trans. Cable Clutch. You can use any 90-96 Legacy or Outback trans. You will need to install the Speedometer sender from your Outback trans into the earlier ones. It screws in right where the cable goes.

Carier bearing or perhaps a rear axle.

Yeah and they would all have tons of rust holes and every bolt you tried to turn strips or breaks.

You did it wrong then. EA81 Radio console is super easy to remove, 4 screws. If you had trouble with that, I am scared for you're conversion.

I know that all the 87 (last of the Cardbed) EA82s all used the Denso disty. I would not just assume that it should have the Hitachi. Does the Coil have a blue top? that would be the Denso coil, and if so, then you should stick with the Denso. If the coil has a black top, then it is 99% likely a Hitachi, and you should find a Hitachi Disty. Either way, you can remove the Electronic guts from an EA82 disty and drop them into the EA81 disty body.

just remove the rear section of the driveline. Leave the differential in place.

Either of the first two scenarios would work fine. No swapping axles, you're IMP is AWD so it has 25 spline axles. If you have an electric VSS it will bolt right into the Legacy trans. Get a 4.11 rear end from a 95 or newer Legacy outback, or if you get a 90-94 unit, get the rear axles with it. OR.....you could have more fun by installing a D/R 5spd from an older GL and not have to swap the rear diff. Lengthened driveline required.

Damn, I wish my scanner worked. I am staring at the 88 FSM, 4WD System Section, and it lists all NON-Turbo 4wd as 3.9 Look harder, it's there.

NO, 87 and after, all the Non-turbo 3spds are a 3.9 diff as well Yours should be 3.9. Look at the sticker on rear diff, it may be covered in grease. Pull the protective film off and you will have a clear view.

+1

Actually, I AM used to sports cars with tight suspension. Problem is, real roads are not racetracks. My car is not even lifted, and without the swaybar, it handles MUCH better. With the sway bar on, the car would understeer until you went off throttle, then the back end would lean over hard then whip around unpredictably. That makes drifting, or even just hard cornering a wild ride. Also, if you hit bumps while already leaned into the turn the whole car would become unsettled. The inside front tire doesn't lift and spin in hard corners. The car doesn't jump around or become unsettled over bumps. And the initial turn in is much better entering a curve, so it is easier to bring the back end predictably around. Point is, if you aint tried it, don't knock it cause you don't know.

M8 x 1.25 Probably around 40-50mm long

Yup

I have seen quite a few people get lucky on these Phase II motors. It is totally worth installing a belt on it and then test running it. If the compression is good on all 4 you are golden Worst case pull the heads and put a couple valves in. Very unlikely htat the whole motor is *toast*

You don't have an LSD. You don't have a center differential either. What you do have is a Hydraulic clutch pack at the rear of the transmission that send the power rearward. Yours is binding, probably from a worn out solenoid or possibly just from stuck clutches. But either way, your binding around turns is in the trans, not hte rear end OK? FYI, the name for the tranny is the 4EAT.

Ummm........wait..... If you add a turbocharger to an EA81 you will get MORE horsepower not less.

Funny, I just finished installing an NA block with my old turbo heads(after welding the exhaust cracks) and a Spider intake. I love the MPFI Spider Non-Turbo in my 89 wagon. it is Sweet. Hopefully the OP of this thread will be able to experience the same joy eventually

So wait, you are running a Turbo engine without the turbo in the car? That could be a problem right there if you did not swap out the turbo pistons for NA. You're compression is down to 7.7 from 9.5. The ECU may not have the right fuel map for running such low compression. But, assuming it could run but just isn't, I'd start checking for any Vacuum leaks, cracks in the intake tube, and of course double check that the screw is in the rotor.

He wasn't suggesting adding an actual Turbocharger. That would increase horsepower. He was suggesting that you use a set of lower compression pistons, used in the turbo cars. Just add the pistons, not the turbo, got it? That would lower compression, and horsepower. I am pretty sure below 60. And then you could run really low octane fuel without risk of pinging.

There is no differential in a 4EAT. It is a hydraulic clutch pack. It may be hard to weld because of the layers of plates with friction material in them. Also, If this is going behind a EA82, he will need a later XT or a GL turbo/RX with 4EAT, or at very least the bellhousing/front diff section from one to use on an EJ 4EAT . And then there is the matter of the TCU. It will want signals from the TPS of the donor car. It may work without that signal, but will have a hard time deciding when to shift. Honestly, If you are going to a T-case, you might as well make an adapter to use a RWD automatic from a Sidekick, 4cyl. Ford ranger, or other small RWD truck

If you do choose to go without a thermostat, you shoudl at least use a restrictor plate. A ghetto way to do it is to simply grind off the arch that holds the spring and pellet on an old thermostat. The valve body will fall out of it and you have an *always open* thermostat. Flow will be a bit faster through the open hole, but not as bad as none at all.

JUst unbolted one side. Car handles much better without it, less understeer. The inside front tire has less tendancy to lift and spin. Espescially over bumps in the middle of the corner. Take em off.