Gloyale

It's actually a Legacy. Lifted. This one.

No I'm thinkin more like loose clamp, or a tear around one of the PCV ports in that rubber tube.

Did the intake tube from the MAF to turbo get disturbed?

Nope, no limited slip. It's bone stock 84 4wd Sedan. EA81, 3spd Automatic pushbutton 4wd. Still debating SPFI or EJ conversion. It runs so wel, seems a shame to take a car that is COMPLETE and original and mess with it. I almost wish it had already been butchered, then I could feel good doing whatever I want.

and another, from inside. This set of donuts was better, we had been spinning in a perfect circle for about 8 revs, before my friend started actually recording. We were quiet dizzy afterwords.

Finally got he Vid of our last snow storm. This little 84 4wd does the best donuts ever!

We'd need to get a line on those crossbred kits too. Or find a secret stash of a few hundred *extra* XT6 rear ends.

One of the four idles costs as much as the kit with all four. I think the kits are fine. My biggest thing is changing the belts at 50k, even though the *spec* is higher. Change the belt often, worry less.

Oh yeah! I forgot. In order to rotate the whole choke spring housing, you will need pop off the little tab on the flange that housing bolts to. It's easy to knock it off with a screwdriver and hammer. Or you could get in there with a little file, but the metal is so soft, the *chisel* method works great.

Yeah, the pump operated, Factory installed stystem, is the only one you will ever find in the FSM. Well, like I said, the buttons can be tested to make sure they are making contact when pushed. Other than that, you could VERY, VERY securly support the front end on jackstands. Then try operating the cruise control (i"d limit speed to about 30ish) see what type of signals are reaching the Servo/Control diaphragm.

The starters are the same since the early 80's. The contacts can go bad in any year. I ussualy just clean them up and bend them in towards the plunger a bit. Heavy pieces of copper, no real need to replace.

Broken choke spring. You can drill out the rivets, open it up, bend a new tab onto it, and close it back up. Just make sure to unwind it a bit since it's shorter now.

So, those 4 wires should run back into the cab, to a control unit. You need to try and verify that those wires are intact, and the control unit has not had any wires come loose. Probably a good idea to test continuity through all the buttons on the control panel ( the buttons mounted on the dash) Other than that I don't know how to fully test the unit.

Fuel pressure test? Both at idle and under load?

That's because there isn't such a thing. The engine doesn't have a *speed* it has *revolutions per minute* or RPM which of course we all know is the Tachometer. If you're tachometer is working, then this isn't the problem. Most likely they miscommunicated that it was an ENGINE code for a Speed sensor (as opposed to the same code being thrown by the Trans computer, auto only) Again, have them replace the VSS.

Install a relay, you're wife won't ever notice anything different.

Actually, the whole engine management system changed in 87. Along with some wiring colors and connector types throughout the whole car. You really must have the FSM for 85 or 86. And I can tell you, the 86 FSM is much more clearly laid out and user friendly. The 85 books are still oddball and read like comical Japanese translations from godzilla movies.

His contention that the signal "wasn't making it from the speedometer to the ECU" is BS The 2 devices, Speedometer and ECU, recieve a parallel signal from that sensor. If the Speedo doesn't display, the ECU still knows how fast the car is going as each unit processes the signal seperately. I have learned in the past that a defective speedo head will not throw a CEL or Trans code (4eat). BUT a defective VSS will deprive the ECU of it's speed signal, and trigger the CEL and trans codes. Tell them to replace the Front VSS

Okay, sounds like you are sure the rotor is held secure. I was just trying to be sure. Removing the distributor cap shouldn't make ANYTHING electrical happen. So my guess is that you have some wirering that is loose or shorting. Check the 2 wires that run from disty to the coil, make sure they are not touching anything. Check you're negative battery connection to the block(near starter and disty) You may want to give the wire loom that runs out of the disty, and over to a round connector near the passenger side strut, it can get melted by the turbo. But really, first thing is verify the timing of BOTH belts and the disty are all correct.

There were actually 3 different cruise control setups used by subaru. 1 was factory installed. It uses a electric Vac pump. The other 2 are dealer installed, utilizing engine vaccum. 1 of the dealer installed systems utilized the steering wheel mounted controls. The other dealer installed setup uses engine vacuum and a single control panel that mounts on the dash, right of column. Ever seen Cruise in a DL wagon? What he describes is this system. Dealer installed. The speed sensor signal should come from the dash speed sensor in the dash that the ECU uses.. Start by checking that the Vaccum canister, mounted to passenger side strut tower, is hooked up. It will be the round black sphere with a hose that comes from eng. vac, and *T*s through a check valve, and the other end goes to a Vac diaphram also mounted to the passenger side strut tower. Check that all hoses leading top and from this canister are good, and getting vacuum when eng. on. Next check the vacuum hose that runs from that vac diaphram, along the firewall, into the cab and down to the vac diaphrahm at the gas pedal. Make sure it well connected. If all that sorts out well, THEN start troublshooting wiring and sensor issues. But be assured, this is a Subaru installed system.

Try operating the windows while the door is fully open, if it works open, but then not as you close it, it is a sure sign. Although yours could be bad enough that it never makes contact. What's really funny is both times I've seen this scenario, it was on 3-door coupes. Never seen this problem on a wagon. Your idea of just running a new wire is right on. Just make sure you splice into the door harness side of the kick panel connector, that way if you ever have to replace door, you can simply unplug like factory.

You should have removed the drivers side cover. It is the side that determines Ignition timing as it drives the Disty. Not to belabor a point, but in an earlier post, you say "distibutor spins freely" It shouldn't spin freely, it should only spin when cranking engine. If you can spin the rotor freely then it is not held on by it's screw. What you are describing for symtoms is EXCACTLY what happens when you lose that screw.

So you used the XT center race, and the SVX balls and cage? is that correct? sounds too easy. How has this setup held up to stress?

It only takes a screwdriver and a 12mm wrench to remove the plate from the back of the solenoid portion, and pull out the contacts. To the OP: have you tried putting 12V directly to the solenoid? Jumpering it, so to speak? If you do this, and it cranks every time, then you're problem is in the starter circuit. Perhaps the starter relay itself has carbon scoring on it's contacts, and is not able to handle the amp load? If this was an Old Gen I would say the Ig switch itself is going because they had no relay.

I don't see how this would cause the overflow to fill up? are you saying coolant is being pushed out, and then air is being sucked in when the engine cools down? Interesting theory, but I'm going to say no because I've run EJ radiators without any overflow tank at all, and they ussualy find a good level. This is iffy. Based on a parts per million calculation, and as often as not, is inconclusive on Subarus