Gloyale

Just a guess, (forgive me if I'm wrong) I'll bet he installed the roll pin before bolting the axle through the knuckle and bolting the whole knuckle back into place. Then while wrestling the knuckle the axle got stretched too far. Remeber kids, the roll pin should be the first thing out and the last thing in when changing Suby axles.

The heads can stay on. But I urge you to pull the cam cases back off and put the O-ring in. If you don't you may quickly ruin those nice new Cams and you're rockers. The O -ring NEEDS to be there or else the valves will not get oiled properly.

I used to believe the same stuff about the partime boxes being better than the full time. That was uintil we lifted my buddies 91 Legacy and started wheeling it. I've seen him bounce through water breaks with only 3 or even 2 wheels on the ground, and he is getting plenty of power to both axles. Only time he gets stuck is when he has one wheel on each axle spinning. Just the same as a PT box with open diffs at the axles. I know purist will still say it's gotta be locked. And to an extent I still agree it is *better* I just want to point out that if you've got good power, good tires, and maybe an LSD rear diff, The AWD EJ box would still allow you to do plenty of good wheelin.

Maybe you got a 25 spline turbo axle??? if so the hole in it is too big. You need a 23 spline axle

You don't have to, but if you do, then you will end up in the right spot. Otherwise simply eyeballing the rotor to point at #1 works fine too. Glad you got it figured out.

Carbed= 8 degrees 85,86, MPFI 25 87+ SPFI And MPFI= 20 Vacuum line disconnected and plug during setting timing. Be careful advancing the timing for power. It can cause overheating. listen for any pinging and retard the timing if you have to.

Definately change the oil before cranking. But if you have popped a freeze plug, you're frewsh oil will quickly be contaminated again. So Please just do this first: Pull the valve covers. Add water to the cooling system to fill it. Watch both side heads to see if any water is leaking out of the freezeplugs in the heads. This happens fairly often. It's really easy to diagnos. And if it's not the problem you'd have ruled it out and can continue to the headgasket tests. If you end up doing headgaskets, you'll need those valve covers off anyhow.

Intake gaskets can leak into the combustion chamber. The Can leak Externally too. They cannot cause any signifigant amount of water in the crankcase. Externally leaked coolant CAN NOT Drip *down the spark plug hole* If that were true, road water splashed into the engine bay would do the same thing. I've had my engine wading in deep water before, and water CAN NOT leak past the spark plugs. Second, if it leaked to the combustion chamber, it would not be much, and it would not fall past the rings. Firstly, because the intake valve for that cylinder would have to be open. Assuming that the intake valve for that cylinder is open, and water did make it to the cylinder, it would pass the ringsBecause it's a flat motor!!! Gravity will pool the coolant at the bottom wall of the cylinder. No WAY is it going to leak sideways past the rings. Plus the intake is a high point in the system, the most you'd lose sitting is a a few ounces. It would sit in the cylinder until cranked over then *burn* Only the smallest amount of vapor could possibly enter the crankcase this way. Sorry if I am seeming blunt here. I just hate to see disinformation spread here. This line of thinking is going to send this poor SubieNewbie on a wild goose chase. His problem is either headgasket, or a popped freezeplug

Dude, if water can leak past you're spark plug, you've got WAY more issues than a coolant leak. Meaning basically, NO, it can't. You misdiagnosed you're leak. There is absolutely NO WAY for coolant to get from the intake to the crankcase, at the gasket or otherwise. Not without leaking past the rings in the cylinder, which it would not do on a running engine, it *burn* and be expelled with the exhaust, or cause a hydro lock if it was a ton of liquid. But no Way in hell would it go from the intake to the crank case. The OP here either has a very bad headgasket leak (I doubt it) or he has a freeze plug in the head that's poped(likely).

:lol: :lol: :lol: I just upped my boost to about 12 psi. That should help it along.

The right side is the side that gets driven through the gutters with all the salty snow/slush in it. Mine were the same way after only a few years of having my car in :-\ Wisconsin

Problem with that is we are all sharing the same planet and finite resources. It not saving Them from themselves, it's saving all of us. Those people who are still drivng 10 MPG hummers are shortening the supply, increasing the demand, driving the prices up for everyone. I won't even address this other than to call BS on free markets working "all the time" If that were the case, we wouldn't have needed the government to prevent diseased meat, asbestos in our houses, and lead in our paint. Free markets driven solely by profit frequently do not take things in the right direction. Ussually the profits come at the expense of the health, or pockets, of some other segment of society, ussually the poor. The concept of how completely *Free* unregulated markets work is a fictional. It doesn't work in the real world.

I would suspect you're ignition system. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Can't hurt to change them out. You could test the TPS with an analog(needle) multimeter. Watch for an even change in resistance while openi9ng and closing the throttle. Also inspect the MAF and the tube from it to the intake. Could be leaky or loose. Beyond that, you may have a coil problem. 20 city/24 hwy seems pretty average for a turbo wagon. Fix that rear wheel bearing immediatley. I've heard (and personally seen) the rear wheel lock up while driving. In one board members case it actually caused him to lose control and flip the car at hwy speeds. Not good.

I think he meant 10w-40 motor oil. Fine for the motor, just doesn't hold the rockers in place as well as grease.

Nope, Disk brakes came on Turbo cars. Some GL-10s are turbo, but not all. 2wd discs set up will not work for 4wd cars. Rotors and calipers are the same, but the hub that the rotor bolts to is different.

There is one hose coming form the aircleaner theat just points down at the drivers side head. Connects to nothing. Looks like the one in pic. should go on the forwardmost outlet on driver sidfe of aircleaner. As far as not starting. Do you have spark???? have you checked all the fuses? espescially the hazard/horn/clock fuse? and the Eninge meter fuses? Double check disty and coil connection. I would think if you had spark and alot of fuel, it would at least sputter. Verify spark and then check back.

Ah,,, but is it worth it to him????? I'm sure they have great engines, Just is it really worth it for 20 year old cars when good condition bottom ends are so easy and cheap???. It's not to me. If anything, I would split the case and install the new bearings myself if I were going to go "rebuilt". Same end result, 1/4 of the price. With EA82s being literally thrown away daily, I can't justify $2000 just to have a warranty. I mean, what decent condition EA82 won't run for 3 years???? I've been trying, hard, to kill an already questionable turbo motor for almost 2 now. It was pieced toghether from 3 rusty motors sitting in the back of the Junkyard as a temporary solution. But it keeps rockin, even as a 4 wheelin rig. I have a completely rebuilt engine ready to go for it when this one finally croaks. It cost me about $800 for maching and parts(reusing old pistons), plus welding the cracks in the heads exhaust ports. Of course I am doing all the teardown/reassembly labor myself. I used a low mile (70k) carbed block and crank, so all that was needed was a very light honing of the journals for the new bearings, and a light honing in the cylinders to seat the new rings. That kept maching costs and complications(finding over/under sized bearings and pistons) down signifigantly. Most of the money I spent went to the heads. I'm sure I could have just swapped pistons and the bottom end would still have been fine.

Grease works way better. Just don't use long strand wheel bearing grease. Anything else though, CV grease, high temp bearing grease, or the best, engine assembly lube/grease.

Uh,,,, we are right at the foot of the coast range. In fact, right next to the highest peak in the coast range(Mary's Peak, 4185 ft.) You're thinking of Albany out in the middle of the valley. There are plenty of mountains, just not right in the town proper. I'd love a Corvallis wheelin trip. Like I said, I;'ve got the bright red Turbo wagon with 27's. And My buddy George has a lifted Silver Legacy with 225/75/15s. Meet up at my shop????? on ???????? at ??????? o'clock.

Alot of water???? If it's alot, or if when you add water, it goes straight to the oilpan..... Then you have a popped freeze plug in one of your heads. Remove the valve covers. There are 3 small freeze plugs in the head. Look for the one that popped out.

Assuming you're t-belts are installed properly, this should be real easy. Rotate the engine to 0 TDC on the timing scale. Look marks on the CAM pulleys. You want the passenger side up and out by 45 degrees, and the drivers down and out 45 degrees. If it's opposite, rotate the crank a full 360 to get them to that position. That will be #1 cylinder at TDC of the Compression stroke. Now the rotor of your disty should be pointing roughly at #1 on Cap. If not, remove it and reinstall so that rotor points to #1 on Cap. There is a dot on the disty gear, alng that dot with the notch on the housing shaft, and it should drop in to the correct position. Pictures worth a thousand words

Specs form Fuji are 22, 43, then 47 ft lbs. Most board members here I believe run a higher final torque. Like 55 to 60 at least. Carefully though, don't want to strip threads. Recently, after doing alot more EJ Headgaskets, I've adapted some of the newer EJ torquing techniques into my routine for EAs. Specifically the final tightening by degrees instead of raw torque. I ussually go 35 ft lbs, then 45. Then I back each bolt off 90 degrees. Retorque to 45. Then I go 90 degrees further on all bolts. If I use cheapo Headgaskets I often retorque after the motor has been run for a while. *** Either method should be done with lightly oiled bolts(10w 30). Oil the threads, and in between bolt head and washer. Otherwise the friction will produce higher torque readings, without actually clamping hard enough.

Should be like this: Cylinders Driver Front Passenger 2 1 4 3 Back Disty should go Counterclockwise, 1,3,2,4, with 1 ussually being the one that is rearmost on the cap, cocked slightly towards the master cylinder.

5 times the money of just buying a wrecked NA GL/Loyale motor and swapping heads and pistons. With only 80 some horsepower they're bottom ends haven't suffered much yet. I bought an 88 GL motor (told has bad HGs) for $30 bucks last month. Although clearly the CCR motor would be a superior replacement, but is the cost really worth it to you?