Gloyale

All my Books indicate the EA81T and EA82T sensors to be the same. even if they are different part #s, they are the same size, use the same connector, and output in the same range. It is located under the thermovaccum valve, on the lower portion of the themostat housing area of the intake.

My first suby, an 85 GL wagon D/R. Went up on Mary's peak to mess in the snow. Everything was fine until I went to shift back into 2wd HI. It would not go out of low, and just made bad grinding noises. So I drove home slowly in 4-Lo. Pulled the rear axles later, and drove it for another 6 months in 2wd LO, till I bought a new body and swapped in my old engine. I was 19, and was scared of opening up a trans to fix it. Now I would. Wish I hadn't junked it, but it had been rear ended and was smashed up anyhow.

That is correct. But what you are missing is that the electrical input DRAINS the pressure, not applies it. So without the drain, full pressure i applied to the clucthes. But if the pressure isn't making it to the rear end (loose or leaking tube inside) then there is no pressure to control. The only way to know is to either test the transfer pressure at the plug I mentioned, or remove the extension and look inside. If you just open her up, and the tube is fine, then you won't know anything. So I would highly recommend taking it to a trans shop and telling them SPECIFICALLY to test the transfer pressure. Just start there, don't let them try to sell you a new trans or rebuild yours,....yet.

Sorry, you've got it backwards. The solenoid drains pressure from the transfer clutch to keep it from fully locking, and allows for a "differential" effect. When the solenoid is disconnected, or not powered, the drain is closed. This causes full line pressure goes to the transfer clutch, locking the rear clutch pack.(there is a mechanical, spring loaded drain that prevents overpresure, but it only dumps when transfer pressure begins to exceed pilot pressure) Bottom line, if he has a loose extension tune, no pressure reaches the clutches, thus no AWD.

This isn''t true. Well it's partly true. All 3AT autos are 23 spline turbo or not. But after 88, Turbo 4wds got the new "fulltime" 4spd, 4EAT automatic. The 4EATs all have 25 spline. Which causes confusion when ordering axles. I always have to order axles for 5spd turbos to get the right ones.

J-yards cannot sell used y-pipes, as they contain a Catalytic converter. It is illegal to sell or install a used cat on any car, in any state.

Every ea82T at the J-yard is another set that are going bye-bye. I'd love to buy every set I see, but I don't have the money. It's easy but getting harder and harder to find the parts.

No it's internal. It's a metal tube Between the Extension and the main case. It carrys line pressure to the rear extension. It can come loose inside and leak. Like I sadi, you can test and see if line pressure is making it back there by using a pressure gauge installed at the plug I told you of. It's got a square head, it's about 3/8" in diameter, and is on the tail of the extension housing. Basically opposite the rear speed sensor.

Im gonna say I think the high pressure line that carrys presure to the rear extension may have come loose or is leaking. If you dont' get mad torque bind with the C solenoid switch activated(which actually means switch in the "OFF" position/no continuity/ no power to the solenoid.) Then you have no pressure to the clutches. Even worn clutches will grab with full pressure. You can test it, or have it tested, by removing the small plug on the rear, drivers side of the trans, towards the top. Install a line pressure gauge there, and take a reading. Should be 7-11 PSI at idle in gear. 104-114 PSI at stall RPM in gear.

I'd pay a couple hundred easy for those. five lug conversion without having to find an XT6 would be well worth it. Besides, if I find an XT6 I want to restore it, not scavenge it. Course it would only work for converting rear disc setups. Unless you want to machine whole new drums.

Probably a clogged heater core. But....... Just something to think about. How old is you're water pump? What is the condition of the antifreeze/coolant? Ha the car ever been kept with just water in it for any length of time? Reason I say this, is that a Waterpump with rusted, rotted away fins can present the same issues. Pump shaft spins but very little water circulates. Now a OEM style pump has a cast impeller, that basically can't rust away(give it 50 years and maybe), but aftermarket ones often have crappy stamped fins. Those are the ones that do rust away. if you have one of those, and you had just water in 'er for any time, then this might be you're problem. I doubt it, because overheating ussually occurs as well with this type of problem. But it is a possibility. Does she get hot at stoplights?

Well, switching the front to five lug is very easy. XT6/Legacy/Impreza front knuckles and struts make it easy. But as S'ko said, the rears are the hard part. But Nubchux is right, that a thick spacer will add stress and funky offset issues, IF it is 1.5" or more thick. But what about a .5-.75" spacer. Pop out the stock studs, and design the plate with the 4x140 studs pointing IN, and the 5x100 pattern pointing out. It would then bolt on with nuts on the back side of the hub through the original stud holes. If the plate could be kept thin, definately under and inch, I think the stress and offset issues would be minimal. One could easily "convert" the fronts using EJ or XT6 struts and knuckles, then just an adapter for the rear.

Welding cast is a touchy affair.

Cam seals are good to change while the engine is apart. I'm surprised nobody chimed in about the common "while yer in there" items Front main seal, and the oil pump O-ring are both really good to do with the timing belt change. In addition, it's not a bad time to replace the thermostat and waterpump too. But they shouldn't tack on tons of extra labor for that stuff. Maybe $200 extra including parts(gaskets and seals are cheap) It seems they aren't doing the ft. main, oil o-ring, or waterpump. So you could wait until one of those things shows signs of needing service, then do them all toghether. Or in 60,000 miles at you're next timing belt change.

I think you need the control arm mounts a well. Since the front end of the of the control arm is bolted to the crossmember, and the other is bolted to the unibody. Between the crossmember there is a block, or spacer. There is no block at the unibody mount however, so you need need the taller mount forn the outback or to fashion a block. At the rear, the trailing arm mounts are a similar affair. However I suspect that because of the length of the arms and the nature of the design, you can get away without swapping those. In fact they may not even be any different come to think of it. Seems to me that using just the ouback struts and no blocks to lift gives you the best real ground clearance advantage. The drive train stays up high, all the lift transfer to actual inches of clearance. Stress on the drivetrain I suppose would be the only worry, but seems minimal.

Problem is that the FWD fuse isn't powered. Check it with a meter. What I mean is that when you put a fuse into the FWD holder, it doesn't "power" anything. One side of that fuse holder is connected straight to ground, the other side to a signal wire on the TCU. When you put a fuse in it completes the path to ground for that signal wire. Only a Millivolt signal is used. When grounded, it tells the TCU to send FWD(95% duty cycle) signal to the C solenoid, through a seperate wire. So you see, running 12v to that circuit is a bad idea, and could damage the ECU. What you would need to do is use the E-brake handle switch to ground the FWD holder. IIRC, most "brake" lights on the dah are already poowered, and get turned on by grounding through witch on the handle. If this is the cae, you could easily make this mod. If not(12v at switch), then you would need to use a different switch, or use a relay that ground the FWD holder when 12v from handle is present.

If any car has been neglected, it can and will "let you down" And BTW non of my EA82s have come to me in pristine, well cared for condition. Every one I've had to go through and make repairs and and replace wornout stuff. You're statement abouyt EJs and EA81 beinbg more reliable is laughable. I ee so many broke down Legacys. And guess what? It' ussually the same crap as an EA82. Timing belts, overheating, leaks, and headgaskets. It can, will, and does happen to any car that is not mantained. And for the EA81, it sure was a great motor. Too bad 90% of them at this point are 1 foot in the grave. And they aren't immune from anything. They breakdown too. I was jut given one recently that doesn't run right, and overheats. ea81s are great, and EJS kick rump roast too. BUT...... 10,000,000 or so EA82s produced is no fluke. I've driven NOTHING but EA82s (until 3 years agos) since I turned 20. So lets see, that means my first EA82 wagon took me reliably cross country, several times, and every where else for 5 years before you even started driving. I'm gonna trust my direct experience, and say unabashedly that the EA82 is every bit as reliable any other Subaru engine. The only way they will let you down is from massive, longterm neglect. And really that is YOU letting YOURSELF down.

You've basically got it. But you may not want to cut the wire.I would use an extra little length of wire, and a few spade sonnector and make the Reistor "plug in" to where the solenoid was. That way, if for some crazy reason they spot it, and make you get it replaced, the orignal wire loom is still intact, and a new solenoid could be plugged right in.

Yeah I meant casting. I just moved cross country, and when we unpacked the only keyboard we could find was this old one with the sticky "S" key. You may have noticed alot of missing "S"s in my pots.

Everyone is missing the fact that there is a tool for pulling that axle through. It has nothing to do with splines or turbos or spacers. All ea82 axles fit the hub the same. The problem is that the axle is supposed to be super tight, press fitted inside the bearings. It's not getting stuck, it's waiting to be pressed:) Fuji makes a tool that is basically a slide hammer that threads onto the end of the axle. My method, when they are stubborn, is to pull the caliper, hub and rotor. then carefully pry out the grease seal. Now I use two pieces of angle iron to span across the gap of the bearing opening, one on either side of the axle. Put a big washer and the axle nut back on and tighten against the angle iron. Once it bottoms out, you may need to pop it off and use additional washer stacked to pull it through more. This is a good time to shoot some grease on the bearings. Then reinstall the grease seal and the hub/rotor/caliper. The end of the axle should be out far enough to get the nut on now, and then pull it through the rest of the way.

Well, that sounds like you are pretty sure about the 5 pd stub shafts. Damn. adly, I don't have an AWD 5spd at the moment either. I jut want to ge thte EJ installed first, using an adapter. I wonder what EJ power will be like through the 3at? As far as a 5 lug conversion from XT6. Firstly, I don't have an xt6 to scavenge. Buying one or all the parts would be spendy too. Second, I am not sure I want to be saddled in the future trying to find XT6 rear discs, pads, bearings, etc. Plus, XT6 axles would be too long for an EA81 as well, so now I'd be mixing and matching 4 axles and not just 2.

NO WAY.. The EA82s have almost 10 feet tighter turning radius. I've measured.

I doubt that the header(crossover/uppipe) is the reason for those cracks. BTV cracks are almost a garauntee for any EA82 suby heads, turbo or not. Look at the cating on the bottom of the head EA82 = Gen 1 EA82 = Gen 2 EA82 surrounded by a full border= Gen 3

You'd be better off swapping parts the other way. Take the good stuff off you're carbed one and put them into the Gl-10. But to do the swap you'd need to Swap the entire engine(Carbed ones have higher compression pistons)Or if you want to use the High comp low end, at least swap the heads and intake. Swap the front crossmember. The Carb one wil not leave you room for the turbo exhaust. Strip the harness and ECU out of the Turbo car, strip it down, and install it in the Carbed car. And lastly install the MPFI pump in the Carbed car. IIRC there may be a few other little problems but that is the jist of it. Easier to do up the GL-10 ey?

I am going to disagree with GD here. He just hates EA82s. But I've driven my EA82s and EA82 Turbos all over the US. Cross country to wiconsin and back 3-4 times a year, often in the winter through, North Dakota, at -10 degrees. For the last 6 years. No problems. Also done a few trips through Nevada in the summer, fine as well(with a good radiator and fan) Because I do my mantainence first. I've never had an EA82 breakdown for any reason related to the engine itself. I've had Alternator failures, and a blown radiator hose. But that can happen to any Subaru engine or any car really. The one thing that is slightly less "bullet proof" is the timing belts. I always do mine a soon as I get a new Roo. And I always carry a spare set(including tensioners) in my trunk. Never had a timing belt break on my own EA82s, cause I do the mantainence first. I think that the fact that the EA82s are that much newer makes them the better candidate to an EA81 car. Plus the EA82 was available with SPFI instead of carb. Better millage and arguably more reliable. I think an EA82 could do everything you need. I would take one to Mexico in a heartbeat. I would have tools and spare parts with me(because Subaru didn't sell cars in Mexico) I'd have T belts, Alt belt, Alternator, water pump, coil, and maybe an axle. I would want excactly the same spare parts list for an EA81(except t-belt) or an EJ22. So basically GDs whole issue with EA82 reliability boils down to a set of $40 belts, which won't break if you replace them before you go. I don't know If I'd want to go THROUGH mexico or stay there for extended time with one. But do all you're mantainence and then go for a trip, you'll be fine. There is a thread on about a member who took a ea82 wagon to mexico, I think all the way south and back. No problems. With a MPFI engine out of an XT no less. Talk about no support for parts!!(MPFI non-turbo could be the least produced EA82 engine style)