Gloyale

I've got a whole 86 EA82t disty. I'd sell it for $30 plus shipping

Sorry, I can't agree. I live in the town where they built them. My son's grandpa worked on the assembly line installing the cranks and piston for years. He says that when they put them toghether often scratched bearings and nicked crank journals and pistons where *acceptable*. Not to mention that there are like a dozen bars around the factory. A couple on every side, literally across the street from every entrance. So the whole plant was half drunk(or half the plant was completely drunk) after every lunch break.

Correct. FWD manual trans uses Gear oil for the whole thing. Automatics, the trans(rear) potion uses ATF, the dipstick/filler tube is on the left side of trans. The differential portion of the trans(front) uses Gear oil, dipstick on the right side of above the axle stub.

A Cherokee? I have several friends with Cherokees and they are piles. My friend Dave's had a piston skirt crack, leading to the piston breaking eventually and crakcing the #5 cylinder bore. Cost over $1300 just to do a minimal rebuild. The jeep had about 125k miles when that happened. Then his transfer case ground itself to pulp about a year later. Not to mention, his ABS system, which uses and electric High pressure pump rather than a vaccum booster for power brakes. It operated in strange ways, pulling the car violently left or right during breaking(Probably from bad wheel sensors). When the High pressure line blew out($192 from dealer,not available elsewhere), we replaced the ABS with a Conventional Master and booster. This is all on a vehichle with less than 150k miles. But maybe your Cherokee won't be as crappy. Wanna sell that D/R fivespeed?

Here is a good kit with everything included http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1994-Subaru-1-8-GL-DL-Loyale-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQihZ013QQitemZ230166595878QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I was worried about the excact same thing with my trailer. When the trailer rocked or leaned over the box would rub the inside of the tire. Not rubbing constantly, but still scary. Glad I didn't have a flat, and glad you where able to deal with your's without too much trouble.

My car burns and leaks a bit of oil, so I have to top off the oil every 2-3 weeks. When the car was ticking and there was room for oil I added a half quart. After another week, it was still ticking a little, so I added another half quart.(it was tad overfull for a bit) At this high a concentration I change the oil again after 500-1000 miles since the *cleaners* in the ATF break down the oil a bit. No more than a full quart till I changed the oil. I had to repeat this through about 3 oil changes before my ticking finally stopped(almost completely). Now I just change my oil every 3000 miles or 4 months, which ever comes first. If the ticking comes back after an oil change I now add about 2 ounces(2 shots) of ATF with the oil and that's enough. I'll run with this small amount for the full 3000 miles.

I believe the EA81t ignition module is the same as the one in the early, Flapper MAF 85,86 EA82Ts. I think the better way to remove the *star* magnet on the shaft is to punch out the roll pin on the bottom that holds the drive gear, then remove the whole shaft.

I would suspect the coil as well. Maybe test it for proper resistance and voltage. Could also just be a bad connection to the coil or disty as well

:eek: :eek: :eek: That would be a problem. It's a big one too because to even attempt to repair it you would have to split the Transmission case. I would look into sourcing a transmission, rather than tackling the repair. Although..... a good transmission shop may be able to fix it for minimal cost, at least parts wise. Still the labor would be spendy.

Hope this helps

I hope you don't think I was trying to put down you're motivation to replace. I am very glad that everything is worked out well. It certainly can't hurt to put the new ones in, My point was that for an engine with 270,000 miles, the HLA's would have still worked for as long as the engine will, and with a little time and driving, and some ATF (really, it works great) You could get em to quite down a bit. It just wasn't nessecary. But more power to you for putting the love in to you're Soobie.

Subaru has actually made 3 different engines with displacment of 1.8 liters, breaks down like this. 81?-84, and 85-89 hatchback and Brat have whats an OHV(no timing belt)1.8 designated and cast with the number EA81 85-94 Wagons, sedans, and 3door coupe use an OHC 1.8 with 2 belts designated EA82. It is essentially an adaptation of the EA81. An improvement, but not much really. This is the engine you're Loyale has. Both of these types where generally reffered to as "L-series" around the rest of the world, regardless of the name in each country. 93-96 Imprezas got a totally new generation of motor, with a single timing belt, Designated EJ18. It shares basically everything in common with the 22(EJ22) and shares basic block with even the newer 2.5 and 2.0 liter engines. So you see, in almost every year, there are 2 possible Subaru 1.8 liter motors. Add to that Subarus pension towards calling all there cars in a year either 1800's or GL(in 86 Brats, hatches, Wagons, Sedans, Coupes, and even the XT, where also either DL, GL, or GL-10:confused: ) Then in 90 they stopped with the hatches and brats(ea81), and everything got easy for a while. The EA82(Wgn,Sdn,Cpe) became Loyales and where the only model with 1.8 liter besides the XT(which also share chassis and engine with loyale) so everything was easy. Then in 93 with the introduction of the Impreza came the brilliant decision to make the trim designation of course what? ....... L Adding to the confusion. Yet another L model with a totally different 1.8 liter. Oh and Haynes books suck

I had a CEL that would come and go on my 93 leagacy, it was from the knock sensor. I'm not sure, but you may be able to use the "read memory" connector under the dash. Even if no code is present now, it will tell you if the code was triggered in the past. After replacing the knock sensor no more code.

I don't think that's normal. But I'm not sure, and I don't have a dual range trans here to look at. Anyone else know?

That's something new i didn't know. It probably would be good to put one in.

I'm going to tenatively agree with Bucky92 and say coil or at least coil related issue. The fact that the tach jumped is an indicator. If it was a fuel issue the tach would be unaffected. Check the connections for the disty and coil, and check for codes.

Do brats not have a proportioning valve? On ea82s, whether drum or disc, the valve function is the same. Only the last foot of line at each wheel needs to be changed.

You mean rear differential? It takes 80-90w Gear oil. 2 plugs on the bakc of the diff, one drain, one fill. Fill until the oil just reaches the bottom of the Fill hole.

+1 for intake. Seems like a head gasket failure would not *fill* the cylinder. Typically HG failure to the water jacket will suck a little water on each intake stroke, but not so much as to cause hydro lock.(plus the compression could push back into the coolant chamber, so it wouldn't be a sealed cylinder, so less likely to lock) If the intake gasket failed however, every time the intake valve opened, it would suck in coolant, then the valve would close and water would be trapped in the cylinder, and have absolutely nowhere to go, = Lock. Pull the intake off, then test the compression.

You may be saddened to find that the tick may not go away with new lifters. Honestly, The ticking is ussually caused by aerated oil (bad pump seals). If you are going to replace anything, i'd start with those. Then I'd try a halfquart of ATF in the oil for a few hundred miles. These HLA's are stationary, and really have no way to *wear out*. The've either gt bubbles in them or are sticky, either way, replacing the HLA's themselves is work that's not nessecary to fix. Think about it, these are the same HLAs as before, and nothing has physically changed them, they just bled out and got air trapped in them while off the engine. It won't hurt anything to replace them, I'm just affraid you're throwing money and parts at something that is not the *real* problem. Oh yeah, and how would a *valve job* have helped with this ticking? Lapping the valves has nothing to do with the HLAs?

Don't play around, set it right.(there is an actual spec for this, no need to guess and *hack*) Set the timing to 20 degrees BTDC like it suppossed to be. Not at TDC. 20 degrees, with the green connectors plugged in.

Check the insides of the bulb sockets for corrosion and clean them. remove the rubber boot on the back of the socket. Pull the metal bulb receptacle out of the plastic piece, and you will expose the ground wire, If it's corroded, clean it, or cut and strip a new sectioin. Reinstall the receptacle with the wire contacting the metal in a different point.

this doesn't seem right. Should have 12v on both sides of the coil. Do you have a spare you could try?

Smoke won't come from heat alone. There has to be something burning/steaming. Sounds like you have blown headgaskets and/or cracked heads. Is this car a Turbo?