Gloyale

Is it possible that the brake backing or *dust* plate gotten pushed against the disc? That combined with a very slight wheel bearing play could cause this. Whenever teh load goes back through the hub the disc could shift a tiny bit and rub on the backing plate. I had it happen once and it really freaked me out. Similar noise can happen if your exhaust or heat shields get pushed near the driveshaft. When you're off throttle the Trans shift the other way on it's mounts and this can move the driveline a few Millimeters and touch the exhaust/sheild. Sounds like grinding brakes or bearings.

I added a few things

The fan should come on any time the Coolant is over 198-205 degrees. Time has no bearing on it. When it get's hot, is the radiator hot? both radiator hoses hot? If not then you have no circulation. Either the thermostat is sticking closed, or the pump impellers have rotted away and you have no pumping action. When was the waterpump last done and has it been run with just water in it for any time?

I've never needed the special tool for EA brakes

Well, the bottom pic is the one with the Difflock lever. It has an XT pitch stopper bracket on it. So it's for an XT, not sure how to tell if it's XT6

Yeah, that's cause it's a copy of the air cooled VW drum brake setup. Anybody ever read "How to Keep Your VW alive" by John Muir? I think there was even a subaru version done later. Subaru used the VW as the starting point for there design in the early 70's. At that point the Beetle was(and still is) the most numerous car on the planet. I guess Fuji figured that to be a good starting point.

Why in gods name would you want to replace it? First thing I do with a new Subie is to unhook that infrernal thing! EA82s they are bolted to the back side of dash to the right of the steering column. 2 wires pink connector. Not sure about brats.

You should read this thread about replacing the exhaust studs. It can be done without removing the exhaust pipes. In fact it is very tough to remove that exhaust pipe(uppipe/crossover) with the engine in the car. You have to jack the motor up a bit really. But yeah read this, it's a long thread and there's some bickering but you'll get the jist of how to solve a stripped out exhaust stud hole. I'm sure yours is and that's why the stud fell out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73815&highlight=helicoil

You should read this thread about replacing the exhaust studs. It can be done without removing the exhaust pipes. In fact it is very tough to remove that exhaust pipe(uppipe/crossover) with the engine in the car. You have to jack the motor up a bit really. But yeah read this, it's a long thread and there's some bickering but you'll get the jist of how to solve a stripped out exhaust stud hole. I'm sure yours is and that's why the stud fell out.

Fix that exhasut leak cause it could be causeing way overrich mixture in the cylinder and making the engine work hardrer. Then check you're timing.

I slapped together a EA82 Turbo out of spare parts to get a car from Oregon to Wisconsin. The heads I put in are Gen 1's from an XT. The valves we're rusty as sin so I had to swap them out with ones from a different head. Anyhow the BTV cracks in these heads were tremendous. One cylinder it was 2 small parallel cracks leaving a little block in the middle. All buckled up a bit and definately could get my fingernail in a bit. Cracks went nearly all the way down to the bend in the port. But the exhaust ports looked good from the bottom so I went with em. I had to beg the machinist to even exctract a broken cooling line bolt, he didn't want to even see them with those cracks. but in the end 20,000 miles and 3 cross country trips later the bottom end is dying (rod knock) but the motor runs great. Good compression, good boost, no coolant lose, no smoke, no overheating. I wouldn't worry too much Daeron

It's important to note that the Vacuum actuator is mounted the same and looks almost the same on both the S/R PT4wd and the FT w/diff lock. The difference is that on a PT trans the lever it operates is up top of the transfer case section. On the FT w/diff lock it operates a lever near the bottom. If it has a rod running along the side of the transmission, attached to a small lever above the dipstick(front right of trans) then it is dual range. If it has that and the vaccum actuator then it is a FT D/R from an RX. If it has that low range lever but no vaccuum actuator then it is a PT D/R.

I've never tried to insert anything into the crack. I don't think that would give you an acurate assesment. The crack could be less than .001 wide but still be a crack, and how would a gauge fit in there? And a ruler wouldn't work unless you removed the valve seat. If I have a question about those cracks I ussually pull the valves and inspect inside the ports. If the crack extends into the portion that starts to bend there may be trouble. But even then there is hope because that wall is fairly thick there. On an NA motor I wuln't expect themn to be too bad. For me, If they vac test good then I use them.

Post in the *wanted to buy* forum or start looking at junkyards. If you want new ones probably have to call a subaru dealer and your banker for a loan:grin:

Test if it's the thermoswitch. Place a small jumper wire or just a paperclip or something across the terminals that connect to the thermoswitch. Do this with the key on and the fan should fire up. I've had problems with poor connections at that clip. If the fan doesn't fire up, then run 12 volts directly to it. If it still doesn't fire then that's your problem. If your electric fan isn't working that can cause it to get hot for sure. Check your Coolant temp sensor. The 2 pole one on the back of the intake. That's what the ecu uses to decide how rich to run and what to set the timing to. If it is bad, reading cold always the ECU will run the engine rich and advanced timed, causing high temps.

Well, I just recieved the brand new bearing. It has zero play at all. $52 dollars for pressing, $12 dollars seals, plus $34 for the bearing. Plus the $50 for the used knuckle. So my attempt at a $50 dollar fix turned into a $150 But the answer is no. These bearings should not need to have preload to have tightness.

Yeah that's a good point. While you've got the dash out. Grab the little cable in the center of the speedo cable housing. And see if it spinns freely. If so it is likely broke. It should be engaged with the trans and only spin when the wheels are moving.

As someone who lives near the windy city, I can't tell you how how many times I've thought something was wrong with my alignment only to realize it is just really strong wind. You may really have an issue. I'm just saying the wind can really blow around here. Sometimes you just can't keep it straight no matter what condition you're front end is in.

I am not an expert on Brats. But I would have to believe that as long as the dashes are the same, and the plugs fit you are good. Both dashes being from the same model, Manual or auto would help to insure compatibility

Thats what I figured, but though I'd ask.

The vacuum diaphram of the governor could be sucking in ATF out of the trans. Pull the vacuum line off of the governor and see if there is ATF inside it. If so that is likely the problem. Replace governor. to clarify. Did you just add two quarts? or drain it and then fill with only 2 quarts? I would flush all the fluid and refill. Capacity is around 6-7 quarts.

Sadly not all GL-10s have a sway bar. Most I've seen don't. GL-10 Sedans seem to usually have them

Theres was an XT6 in the local yard here before the winter. I'll go check again. I'm happy to get them for you if you cover what the yard asks and shipping. Gotta find out if it's still there first

Can you put EA82 hubs onto an XT6 arm? I mean can you swap just the four and five lug assemblies between the 2? I thought to say do a five lug conversion you needed the whole arm, axle stub, bearings,etc...all of it. If so it would mean unless you're doing the five lug swap you have to get EA82 arms.

Wow thats a great set of pictures for everyone.