Mykeys Toy

Is it possible the ground to the block is insufficient?

Is there a common ground somewhere that I didn't see? Battery is grounded to body and engine I do not remember seeing another. 83 sedan.. I have my fuel issue figured out now I don't have oil pressure voltage or temp gauges. I need some Ideas or point me in the right direction.

Sweet! thank you. Now jumping the wires sounds a whole lot easier than running wires back and forth for a relay. Who knows which wires need to be jumped?

I don't suppose that the fp relay is black or sometimes blue bolted with the hood release bracket?

98 legacy GT seats.. The lean a little too far back for my preference but they are waaaaay more comfy.

find the adjustment bolt on the top front side and let it down a little... my guess is that it was adjusted for a little more height which also makes it more stiff.

So I pulled the Weber today and played with it. I believe my problem was binding linkage. I may have over-thought the assembly and overtightened the nut because it had a little play... a mm or two. fixed that, just backed it out a little and and Bam! no more sticky feeling. Unfortunately I was messing with the butterfly first thinking it may be the culprit and be reversed 180 and stripped one of the holes pretty good and one of the screws is now a basket case. Any ideas on where to find parts or would it be better just to send it to someone and have it done? Mike

I believe I did add washers however I still need to move the cable bracket or fab one up it is currently too short and at the wrong angle but I have forcibly made sure the linkage is backed out all the way, so if there is binding I will have to find it elsewhere or just haven't seen it yet. I will check it out in a few. 3 hours later.. I did find one potential problem with my washer being too big so I swapped it around with a less broad one and now clears though I don't think it would have been major since it's only job was to keep the factory throttle thingy ( gotta love the technical terms ) from hitting the Weber linkage. Still not seeing the problem so I suppose the next step is too remove the carb and check for other things that may cause binding or possibly being stuck open/closed. I hope the gaskets survive.

Will have to check for fuel dumping. Choke is not connected to power so it is all carb. The adjuster screw with spring is not touching anything.. I havent removed the linkage to give it a little love yet so I thought I could leave it be for now.

Gen 2 weber swap. Anyone have an idea or three for why she wants to idle between 2500 and 3500 depending on how warm the car is? I have corked all the remaining vacuum ports and hoses as per example on my hatch. Throttle cable has slack. What else is there?

Why not account for the height difference by recessing the mounting surface more and leave just enough space for it to breathe. Maybe Idasho already did take this into account I really don't know. In my mind and feel free to expound and disagree but Mounting and leaving no space at all between the carb and filter cover would not affect much if it can still get plenty of air from the sides.

I cannot say for sure on the Gen3 cars but for Gen2 the knuckles are the same, the big difference lies in whether you had an early 83 or older with solid rotors and later 83 and newer had vented rotors. Mike

Well then I stand corrected and will not not be joining the fun this year.. Crap I have so much to do!

I got tired of using my head so I have a stick in the back.

I did not use the return I removed the y connecter and just have a fuel in.

I love it! that's all I can say.

The windshield isn't really hard at all I have removed two or three one was already broken one broke on us and we got one good one now residing in our sedan.. The real trick is to have two people doing this and getting the seal to release.. The seal is how we broke the one. Should have used something other than screw drivers.

This isn't a write up per se. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/weber/weber.html The write ups that you have seen are pretty much the same as an ea82 just minor differences. It really isn't that hard unless you have a bunch of factory options like ac and power steering. That is what is kicking my @$$

I have done a weer swap but the car came equipped with most of the stuff for factory a.c. that I would like to keep for future reinstall what do I need to plug for the interim? Aaaand I have the exhaust tubes coming up from the heads and really don't know how exactly to plug them.. I can get pics if necessary I just don't have them now. Any help is appreciated since this project has taken far too long already.

Bring the whole family and you will never leave. muwahahaa!

Give it time yet Twitch. I thought it was after the show last year? Besides you have to give people time to get over the excitement of WCSS before they can get to starting this... I for one am looking forward to getting to one of the brat meets. I just don't think it will be this year. Mike

I am only sure of the charcoal cannister but that will need to stay until you actually do the weber swap. The egr is easy if you have aa piece of metal a geinder amd a drill. Just block it off aand use the old gasket. The rest at least in my car is confusing and my maajor set back.

The carter weber you are currently running is a feedback ( ECS controlled ) one barrel carb. The Weber should if tuned properly will get the similar mileage to the one barrel you are using as long as you keep outta the skinny pedal. I have been in the process of the same swap and I did have to get a hitachi intake to do it. I am still not done but I have AC stuff and other crud I have no idea what to do with.. So I am not the best source for info but I can tell you what I do know.. I believe vin 5 is hitachi and 4 is the one barrel feedback carter/weber. I may have them backwards but one way or another thats pretty much it the carb. I did not have a problem with cold weather start so I cannot say there may be other options to resolve that issue but as far as I am concerned the 32/36 is an upgrade for both mileage and performance. I would see what can be done to alleviate that issue until you actually have problems with the carb. Then do the swap but I may be influenced by my inability to get my own swap running. Mike

The difference between vin 4 and 5 is the carb mostly. One is the hitachi and the other is Carter/Weber aka feedback carb. The water pump looks the same on all my cars and have both vin codes. The oil pump difference is none, it is a matter of idiot light and guage one mounts horizontally and the other is vertical. The gauge type will plug in from the bottom and the other to the left side if looking at it from the front of the car. If say your other pump has the plug that fits the side and need it from the bottom remove the bolt and put it into the other hole change the switch and your done.

Ok so some progress.. not much though. I still need to plug the tubes coming from the heads and I have a lot more crap under the hood that needs to be plugged or removed but that is difficult to sort at least for me. The Fuel pump works so I tried improving the ground ( added a ground wire and tapped existing. ) That did not fix it so will be running a more permanent solution through the car via relay, My temporary fix is wires taped to the battery down the fender and back to the pump which works but looks extremely ghetto. I think once I get the stuff under the hood worked out my high idle will probably go away. It won't idle under 3500 RPM. I miss driving my car the mileage is awesome.