Mykeys Toy

Congratulations!

Have you got back to dropping that motor in yet? I wanna know how it runs... Hurry up darn you!

Well the sender is showing 12.79 ohms and the gauge hasn't moved from full since June. Going to have to look into a potentiometer.. It has more than a few good uses.. Kind of audio nut also and helps with just the right amount of resistance to one speaker or another for perfect blending.

Welcome to the family! I have many people that i would call friends that i have never met and many others that have bent over backwards to help me and others keep our rides on the road. This board rocks. Mike

That would be great Abe! I was hoping it would be the sender. After unplugging it and turning the car to run the gauge did not move, still pegged. So I tried jumping the wires at the point of sender, still pegged. From what I have read and what has been posted. The problem is going to be wires or gauge. Still kinda hoping it is the wires. I am much more comfortable with fixing ,patching and splicing wires than cluster removal since the last time I neglected to remove the steering cover and something else that got scratched up when I did so.

I am glad you found it. I am sorry I didn't get to the pics I was going to take for you.

OK well some progress.. THe gauge doesn't move when the sender is disconnected... The snag is I lost the wire in the loom then again when it goes under the dash. I will get there a good schematic would help haynes and chiltons both suck eggs.

I am going to assume this lack of pressure is recent. And that you have bleed the brakes all the way around to make sure. So I got a new master at teh autoparts store for $50 no core and once it was bench bleed ( I waited over a year to do it ) The brakes were awesome. Almost as good as my hatch with rear discs... Touchy but fun on anything that isn't pavement.

So which is it Stella or Lily? .. Kudos Brian She is a fine rig..looks good dirty to. Oh I hear some Floyd in the background....OOOOH I need a dirty woman.

recognition would be cool, just not necessary to me..It is just a friendly competition with a bunch of other subafreaks and helps keep some of the ideas n creativity flowing.

I will try to get a pic for you this afternoon. Unless it has been replaced It will be right there.. I usually don't even jack the car up because I can reach under with everything I need.

After Rob sent me a cheat sheet for my temp gauge and got that one worked out... I thought it might be applicable to the fuel level also... Sometimes the gauge will read ( I never know if its correct ) Anywhere from 1/4 to full. It reads full more often than not.. It could be the sender. But in order to check I think I need to know what the resistance range is supposed to be or am I thinking backwards?

Has any one swapped a gauge from one cluster to another? I believe my fuel gauge has died a painful death and would like to laid to rest.

Very cool project.

It really depends on the noise. If it is a clicking noise then it is axle new or not sometimes you get a lemon. If it is more grinding squealing or howling it could simply be an axle nut not tight enough... it happens. You could very well be right about the bearings. I hope that helps narrow down the possibilities.

Throwing in one more tidbit here. For troubleshooting challenged. This might only apply to the blue FPCU. The Big black wire on the FPCU plug is hot only when the key is on not acc. So is the yellow wire though I think that may be the trigger. The two blue wires share a plug Are the supplied power to the pump and not sure what else. The small black wire is fuel pump ground. So to make it all work I added a ground wire put spade terminal on it and plugged it into the ground supplied to the pump and jumped the tellow wire to the two blue ones. Now maybe this is long winded but I did just wake up and thought I would share so maybe someone else doesn't have to do all the testing and double checking that I did. Good luck Mike

I do not have a turbo car so it may be different but all of my gen 2 cars have always had them just in front of the rear passenger side wheel on a triangular plate held up by three 10 mm self tapping bolt/screws.

Ah so now that I have time and show is over went back to trouble shooting.. I have power everywhere including fpcu and @ the pump but something isn't making the connection to send the ground back to the pump. So the question is will it hurt anything to pull the ground output wire from the fpcu and and replace with a good ground?

I realize this is a little late but on the Daniel Stern website there is a diagram to wire up a relay for ground switched cars. I did use it for headlights but in theory should work for the horn also. Basically you use the hot for a trigger but the factory ground wire for the horns is now the the relay ground so that leaves the + feed to wire up and the + output ... relay is done. Then ground the horns if not mounted to a grounded metal body part. Good to hear you got it going though.

That would be a toss up between Turbone and Suberdave

They cant all be the best ever for everyone.. Most of my balloon deflation had to do with vehicle issues and not being able to show up on Friday. Aside from all that the BBQ truck was kinda scary so I passed my tickets off to you while others were lining up. On the up side that was one of the coolest mudpit dirty fun tracks to date. I thoroughly enjoyed watching others play in it.. I am hoping to partake at some show in the not to distant future. If I am able I will help wherever I can Just ask. My work schedule is the only thing that may complicate my helping. I have only the most vague idea what it takes to organize the event and think maybe a few different people each year should help with planning. different ideas and or perspectives. IDK just throwing my thoughts out there.

It was great to see old friend and make a few new ones for the short time we were there... Now where are the freakin pics? I showed up too late to get any of my own.

He wanted your food!

So it turns out my car picked this exact time to back out several screws on the back of the cluster so it was a ground issue but I would not have found it if I hadnt pulled the cluster.. Now for the IDK There is one plug with a black wire and one yellow with red stripe and I have no idea where it goes... OK you caught me I only mostly removed the cluster a friend did the unplugging, So what is it and what does it go to?

Well I found one wire that had unplugged so now I have a voltage gauge again. Still looking for the power source for the other two so I have something to trace back. I tried looking at the schematic in a Haynes but got my nowhere I can only kinda read wiring diagrams.. Cougar is right not a ground issue. I double checked. and used my trusty test light. Is there something that needs to be jumped with a weber swap when you had a interference carb? I didn't think so but I am really struggling here.. Trouble shooting makes me wish for explosives. ok only fr a few minutes at a time.