archemitis

thats the best way to find subarus! by word of mouth. all of the ones in the paper are overpriced, and over driven. good find!

i thought some new hondas are the only ones that use a wideband o2 sensor, stock from the factory. that would be the win!

i have ridden in several turbo cars, and they all bounce around. thats what fuel injection does, theres no system that holds it at stoich all the way through the throttle position. this is not a guage to be used for tuning. you need an egt.

i never get peepl to answer specific questions anymore, its all about peepls planned mods lists lately. hard to get good info from the peepl who know, because they dont filter through all the crap to find the few posts that reely need good hands on info. just my observations.

did i read that right, at full throttle the other lights turn on? on both subaru efi systems ,i have hooked an autometer guage up to, mpfi and spfi. they both did the same thing, as well as other cars i have driven. at part throttle, after the o2 sensor heats up, it will bounce back and forth from full rich to almost full lean, a couple times a second. then when you floor it it goes all the way to rich, 3or 4 bars on the right side of the guage.

looks fun as a dune buggy!_! what was your reasoning for going with the small tires? the look like mean tread, but what about more ground clearance =] not a flame just a question

as long as they arent hitting your front strut/springs, you should have all the room you need. i hammerin the room for clearance isnt toohard, since its pretty thin metal

pull em out. the part that sticks through the drum stays there, and holds it all together. should be very easy, as people pull them on the trail, without removing any other part.

har! ye be smokin too much crack matey!

use the nuts under the hood, to make the cable housing longer, make sure you still have a little free play, so the clutch doesnt have pressure on it all the time. if you adjust it and it is loose again in a day or 3 then your cable is about to snap, and it would be time to replace it with a junkyard or new one. hint: its so easy i made my girlfriend pull her junkyard one, and change hers, by herself.

holy ****, that looks too clean, i thought it was fotoshopped.

sorry, this is my favorite part about building a motor =] you might hear talk about not making you intake too smooth becasue it will cause fuel to pool, and reduce the amount of fuel mixing with gas. as far as i can tell this is bs, with efi or a carb. my harley is almost mirror smooth, and i have no problems.

also, alot of people end up taking out alot of the hump, that is the right behind the valve seat, but that just makes a sharper angle for the air to turn, wich negates anything you gained by making the port bigger. instead make the space on the opposite side of the hump a little more open, and smooth the hump. on the crack between valves, smack it with a punch, to get the sharp angles of the cracked aluminum mashed back down, not a huge thing, just worth it while your in there. dont fill it with jb weld =]. i did my first set on my harley, and messed up, by the end i had a 100cc combustion chamber, instead of the 90 i was goin for. but that was more involved with big valves, and massive amounts of metal being removed. so just take a piece of sand paper to the combustion chamber, or you will be left with lower compression, wich is not cool =]. also sharpen the valve guides, so theres not a 90 degree angle right there, next to the valve shaft. its all hard to describe with words, just think of water flowing through it. i always think of sticking a stick in a stream, it makes the little ripple in front, and turbulance behind it. so smooth, non abrupt angles is what your goin for.

with a recirc valve vented to atmosphere, on maf systems, it makes your idle funny. if it was a map sensor car, you can vent to atmosphere with no problems.

tooth off on disty?

yes, the ea82 exhaust side can stand alot of work, as there are two areas, that have large buildup of slag, that acts like a bottle neck. and on the intake side, you can open them up a bit, and clean up the seam where the mold came together. to be carefull, use sand wheels, instead of metal bits(wich take out alot of metal) unless you want to sacrafice low end for high end power dont go crazy and hog them out, just clean them up and open them up a bit. take a punch to the crack between the valves, to smooth it out, and eliminate it as a source for pre ignition. gasket matching helps line up the intake manifold and the heads, so use old, or new gaskets as a guilde on how much to remove. basically, if it looks good, its gotta flow better than stock. just dont exagerate any bit dips, by removing metal from them, the less curvy, and rough a path the better. have fun, maybe practice on a junk set first.

lift seats??! i lowered mine 2 inches =] my 5'4" gf should like this suggestion tho

they usually fowl like a spark plug, and you CAN clean them sometimes with a propane torch, but dont get it red hot. i run with my o2 sensor unplugged, runs better =], even than with a new one installed. the o2 shouldnt have anything to do with idle, at that point the computer doesnt even look at it. same with full throttle.

the mitsubishi dsm ones are recirc valves, and hold strong to 20 lbs. and the flange and tube are easy to plumb. does the spider intake work with the 87 flapper style fuel injcetion?

put on an intake manifold from a ea82, and even the carb, is bigger. also the spacers fot the air suction valves are skinniter than the ea82 exh, so you could use the ea82 y pipe too. more compression!

do you think fhi is realy the place to send it? id think youd have to start with subaru of america.

turbos rool, and the 2.0 has been pushed to the limits and holds together well. id say 2.0 turbo action!

not sure what it is. 1986 ea81 hatchback 4x4. i had a chevy s10 pickup that had torsion bars on the front, and when the rubber mounts for that went it made the same kind of sound. its like a hollow low pitch rattle, that is very noticeable over bumps, and is starting to make noise on the highway. is there any thing with the torsion bars on the rear that could do this?

well, on the negative side you will also have a tach wire coming off the coil, and there needs to be a power wire going to the +side of the coil, along with the one coming off the distributor.

and if its like mine, the red goes to the + and the yellow goes to the negative, but... it may not matter.