TheLoyale

in other news, Jboy and I did cam and crank seals today on TW10. Only took about an hour of real work, most of the time was spent waiting for paint to dry and looking at Craigslist Subarus. I am wondering if I had set the timing off a tooth when I first did the timing belt, as now feels like it has stronger acceleration, also, the exhaust note has changed some. Makes me wonder, Jon, whats your take on this?

Then don't read it, I really don't care. The point is, they contain info and will remain there for others looking for knowledge and ideas.

Let me asking you a question, whats wrong with paintingvalve covers, sprockets etc... A different color then the rest of the vehicle? Ever seen Gyro-choppers, those guys paint all kinds of stuff on the motor, so whats the difference if its in a car? I will not get into another debate about what is "Ricer" with you, I really will not.

Its the same principle as having a Red EA81 with a Blue air cleaner box and Valve covers. It dresses up the engine bay.

It'll make it more appealing, its only paint.

Welcome to the board! Hope to see you on the road sometime. Since your going to do a timing belt, I would also do cam and crank seals so you don't have to get in there 20,000 down the road. -Tom

Possibly. Just remember, sometimes another sensor can fail and make other codes trigger without even being the issue. Like with my Legacy, I had codes for Knock, Cam and Crank sensors. I replaced the Cam and Crank sensors and the Knock sensor went away. If you want, try cleaning your Mass Airflow Sensor on the airbox. Use some electrical spray cleaner and mist down the little tong inside. Might take away your lack of power. -Tom

If you take out the Climate control unit, then you can see the vent box and can get your entire hand in there to do what you need to do. Just take out your cup holder first, then gently pop the upper cover off (Where the dash vents are) and you should be in good shape. -Tom

Complete list of every code a SPFI EA82 can thow:

32 is "O2 Sensor" 33 is "Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) "

Code 35 is exactly for the solenoid, most likely it does not work anymore. You can on the other hand get a new one from Carquest like I did, its about $50. Or you can just leave it and drive as is, it doesn't affect the running of the engine. You could test the Resistance and see what it shows, I'm not sure how much resistance it should have, anyone else know? Also, like Cookie1 said, there are two of them. One is for the EGR, and the other is for the 4WD, you will notice the vac line on the other runs down to the trans mission (At least on the 3AT) Cheers.

EGR Purge solenoid? Follow the vac line from the EGR and it will lead you to its solenoid as its right under the intake on your left. Has a big white two pin connector. Looks like this: Hope this helps.

Yellow Cam sprockets anyone? Thats what they'll be after tomorrow. I figure it'll tie in with the Valve covers. Just hit 220,000 lastnight!

Outstanding! On that note, this thread is over and there is no point in gauding it up with off-topic.

I have no use for any of that. Good luck with junking it all.

Bennie, thanks! It's probably something like RTV Ultra-Gray which is good stuff.

Bump, How's it coming?

Fuji Bond: Now saying I was going to reseal the oil pan on the EA82, would I use the cork gasket and also apply Fuji-bond? As you would with a Waterpump seal and RTV.

Replacing Cam and Crank seals friday, I may or may not replace the oil pump seal (Might as well since I have it) Then it's a matter of Oil pan and Oil separator needing a reseal, which I am not going to do as I plan to be rid of this car before the end of this year (Seeing if I can find an EA82)

I prefer the looks and the engine layout more so then anything after the EAs.

Now to find a 5spd Loyale on craigslist and sell this thing!

Pulled a MAF off a '91 Leganus sedan at a junkyard, seemed to cure the issue. I could have figured this out a week ago if I have extra parts to throw at it, I don't have that luxury.

Fel-Pro Gaskets.

New Fel-pro gaskets: