TheLoyale

I have also done something interesting with the mirrors which I have yet to post.

Besides noise, is there any slipping? And does it shift smooth? Noise could just be caused from dirt, changing the fluid and maybe running a flush could clear it out and may quiet it down (As the longer it moans, the more damage there could be) a 4EAT with 300,000 is pretty good, these transmissions are pretty hard to kill. Check and smell the fluid sometime, if its dark red or has metallic shavings in it or smells burnt, then I would start looking for a new tranny. -Tom

I'm sure yours will turn out just as nice, it took me 6 years to get mine to the state it is at now. Do you have a thread? PM me some pics if you want -Tom

I am wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is causing this issue? Its allowing way to much fuel in at times causing the richness. My plugs are black with carbon build up (Only a year old) Other ideas on what is causing so much un-burned fuel?

Believe me, having a 3/4ton truck with an 8ft bed always comes in handy. Just took a tree down and to Jon's last weekend. I love the fact that a Dodge 5.9 360 gets way better gas milage then a 2.2 Flat-4.

Wow, its amazing to not have oil all over the bottom of my block for the first time in 6 years! Thank you Fel-pro seals! Only thing that still leaks is the pan its self, but I ain't removing that, unless its really called for. Cork gaskets are crap Period.

Thats why you just buy a Dodge 2500 and a car trailer, no need for a flat-bed. Saves time and money.

What are you talking about? Didn't anyone tell you that Spatz were the new Tundra hiker boot...?

Its hard to tell, It needs to push down and back a little as there is no gap between the hood and grill.

What a wongleflute, "I told you flat-bed for a reason." Take all kinds eh

Found out this doesn't fit between the headlights on my Legacy, WTF? Also I think the rear most lip of the bumper interferes with it.

Cool, good to know Thank you!

Lol, nice! I don't even know where the FPR is on this thing? I'm used to the little black round things that the EA82 has in line with the fuel line. Are the regulators on the fuel rail?

Eh, its becoming irritating and I just like the old gens better. I'm also trying to figure out whats causing this ill running issue that just popped up. I've been all over the engine and I can't figure it out. Was thinking it might have been bad gas, since I filled it up today it ran fine for a good 40 miles, then coming back home, like 2 blocks away, it started acting up, then stalled Lol! It got flooded and was a PITA to start (But it did restart) "Thats why makes a Subaru, a Subaru." I don't know if a fuel regulator is going? Causing it to run way rich, cause you can sure smell the fuel, plus my plugs have quite a bit of carbon on them (Only a year old) so its defiantly running raw. At least I have the EA82 to drive (As always) I dunno, I wouldn't be able to sell this car to anyone anyway. Who would buy it? LOL! Plus I would have to fix the issue first, as I'd want to get no less then $1,500 since all the money I've stuck into it.

Ha! You're lucky to have a tarp, I did HGs and a timing kit replacement once in a storm (Seemed like a damn hurricane) That head looks nice and smooth.

Having the idea on selling this f*cking car.

Yeah, I would use Red or Gray RTV for that.

Hmm, thats something to keep in mind. I have another tensioner, maybe I'll swap it and see what happens. Don't want to snap my new belt.

Nope, the tensioner is good (Its the log style) but the timing it still dead on and the belt is tight.

It wasn't much water (I have gone through much deeper) I will pull the plugs tomorrow and check things out for giggles. I am wondering about that little filter thing now, yes its a 4:11 Auto. I see a quarter size round filter on a vac line that leads onto a fitting on the intake on the passenger side, is that it? Its the most noticeable one there.

They are Carquest brand, but I think it would have affected it before hand, bu then again, when you get down to it, Wires are wires. I drove this car 1,000 miles round trip in one day a few months ago with no issues. This sputtering/lofting issue started one night after I hit a puddle, I figured maybe it had a little water ingestion and would clear up in a few minutes, I just don't get why it comes and goes while driving and doesn't produce a code. When it does sputter while idling, it will drop down to almost 0rpm then back up to or beyond 500rpm, I have never had it run this bad since tonight, when under acceleration I had like zero power to get up to speed, I got up to about 35mph and pulled over trying to keep it running (Even though it has never stalled) revved it some, cleared up, and drove it home with out it acting up much.

So, TW10 started up with this issue a few weeks ago (Phase-I EJ22) Starts up, idles fine, while driving it will become very boggy, sometimes starts to sputter and the idle lofts driving and parked, If you rev it a few times it clears up and runs fine, then it will come back in a few minutes. It seems to be getting worse since I put two new O2 sensors in (Last code I had was P0136 rear O2 sensor) replaced that today, no more code, but runs worse off and on? Seems like it is running way to rich during its spaz aswell. You can smell fuel coming outta the exhaust, it also seems to run a little rich all the time. It has an UEL Header which I've had on for over a year, so that can't be causing an issue. Has new as of last year: Cam sensor Crank sensor Knock Sensor Plugs/wires Fuel filter New as of this year: Up and Down flow O2 sensors. MAF is clean, but I'm not sure if its malfunctioning, Can a failing Coil pack cause this? I'm stumped since there are no codes (And I have driven it long enough to have new codes if there were to be any) I'm thinking of getting a lower milage MAF, TPS, Coil Pack off a junkyard car. This motor has 220,000 on it. Ideas?

Ha! Classic

New EMPI axle in today.

New EMPI axle on the drivers side today. Now its final, rear axles have been rebooted and new axles in front, all freshend up!