TheLoyale

I like the deep wheels he is running!

Must be wide open, front end is high and wheels are cambered. This is sporting an EJ20T, so its a rocket.

Played around with the Brat today, since I ran out of fluxcore wire. Changed the wheels/hubs, and am planning on making a rear tire carrier and bed rack. I also shorted up the rack for the roof. Here is what I accomplished on the rear car today! Better shot of how well the rockers came out!

I kinda wish my dash had the Analog Clock vs the Digi one. Looks cool!!

Back to pictures!! White EA81s always look awesome. I really like these decals!

Nice start! Perfect dash as well! Can't wait till I get my '83 going. Cheers, -Tom

Rear bumper is simple, but nice. Less is more perhaps.

Quick VIN check using a Dealers URL. http://www.lincolndealer.com/CPO/AutoCheck?PaCode=07934&VIN=jf2am53b9de447049#full-history

I think this is the most I've torn into one of my vehicles. I successfully welded in a rocker! Kinda felt good to have that work out

Wheel Backspacing and Offset Before mounting a set of aftermarket wheels, there are some dynamics involved with fitment that are best to understand first. 1. Wheel Diameter. This is the diameter of the wheel. Stock wheels are commonly 15 or 16 inch diameter. This dimension is usually in 1 increments (i.e. 15, 16, 17) but some manufacturers offer 16.5, which is rare. 2. Wheel Width. This is the width of the wheel, measured inside the outer lip of the wheel. This dimension is usually in 1/2 increments (i.e. 7.5, 8) 3. Wheel Center. This is the center of the wheel in relation to the width. 4. Offset. The distance from the centerline of the wheel to the face of the mounting surface of the wheel that contacts the hub. 4.1 Zero Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is at the wheel center. 4.2. Negative Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is behind (or inboard) the centerline of the rim. This is often found on standard rear-wheel-drive vehicles and on so-called reversed rims. (Diagram below shows negative offset) 4.3 Positive Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is in front of (or outboard) the centerline of the rim. This is often found on front-wheel-drive vehicles. Stock Tacoma wheels have Positive offset. 5. Backspacing. The distance from the mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel. This measurement is closely related to offset (without actually measuring, backspacing is about equal to [Wheel Width / 2] + [Offset] + [about 1/4] ). 6. Centerbore. The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration. This measurement may be critical to clear the hubs of a 4WD. 7. Bolt Circle. Also known as PCD (Pattern Circle Diameter). The bolt circle represents the diameter of an imaginary circle that goes through the center of the bolt holes. 4x2 Tacoma Bolt Circle: 5 lug on 4.5 PCD; 4x4/Prerunner Tacoma Bolt Circle: 6 lug on 5.5 PCD.

Another nice write up about Backspacing and offset. http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=40

Did anyone actually read this thread? This guy bought 15x10 U.S wheels. http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm

If you want, I can take some pics of how the pugs compare front to rear, clearance(s) If I remember right the front and rear are pretty much the same.

LMAO! Yeah, I don't think you would die in the Bathtube (Although Whitney did) Moab is a crazy place!

It'll be pretty much the same.

Probably about a 8 or 8.5" wide tire. The center bore of the Toyota wheels is also large enough. Personally, these wheels look better with a 33x10.5 or 33x12.5 tire, 35x12.5 FTW!

Sounds like some serious gearing, is that the T-case or the tranny wine? Wilcox, you want to see something even more scary? Look up Hells Gate Moab.

They are about 4.50" to 4.75" IIRC the '91-'92 Landcruiser alloys are the 4.50"

Jay Leno does not own one Subaru... WTF? But he has a BMW Isetta.

Ah yes! The "Snow-Way" plow. It is made right here in Milwaukee, WI! It'll bolt up to any EA81!

Indeed, I've seen people do them on exhaust studs as well. I might try and do this to my currant intake so I have a good spare, either for my self or someone else.

Normally, no. It should be ready to go. Perhaps the hose has collapses inside while moving the caliper around? Are they the original hoses? Only other thing I could think of, is one plunger/piston is stuck from rust or... Hope this helps, -Tom

Is Heli-Coil an option as well? I've never done it. Here is a kit for M8x1.25 http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Piece-Helicoil-Thread-Repair-Kit-M8-x-1-25mm-Internal-Threads-/270968227247?hash=item3f16f705af&item=270968227247&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&vxp=mtr#ht_1791wt_820 And these are the correct Intake gaskets, right? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=125061

Its actually kinda cool looking! Kinda has the same appeal as Trashwagon

Yep, that is about how mine feels for a few seconds on take off (Harder the take off and the more it shimmies) I always thought it was just my aggressive tires, but you are having this with stick tires, so hmmm. The Camber is slightly increased during a lift kit, even using SJRs kit that has the 15* offset to compensate for it, there is still a decent amount of positive camber. You will notice it more with larger tires. As for a solution, I can't give one. Perhaps your shaking is different then mine.