TheLoyale

Any Subaru lug nut will work. You could even pocket ones from a Junkyard Legacy as all EJ cars have chrome acorns. As for center caps, newer Subaru wheels (16") have flat center caps like that, I wonder if they are indeed the same size. I bet they would clip in!

Ooo! 1985 Rally wheels. Nice find. I like these 12x1.25 Acorns will be what you want.

Right on with the rust converter, I forgot to mention that. Another good brand to use is "Permatex Rust Converter" it comes in a white plastic bottle, and looks like Milk, brush it on, it will turn the rust black, and also put a clear/milky seal over it, you can leave it uncoated for a while before it starts to fail, so applying some type of coating over that will yield a long lasting finish. it will also turn a rust scared area into something nice and smooth with no craters, for a solid seal with no pin holes. I've learned a lot of what products work well with a combined effort, as I've had many failed attempts to slow down rust (You will never stop it)

This is actually a good idea, the POR will need something to grab onto, and this would most definitely work. Parkerizing is usually considered to be an improved zinc or manganese phosphating process. I know they use phosphate conversion a lot on Firearms, where as back in the day they would use the "Bluing" method to form Magnetite on the steel gun. ANYWAY! It all depends how much your looking to spend and how much apply time your willing to designate.

POR-15 isn't all that great, you need to do a perfect prep-job or it will start to peel off. I wasted a lot of money on POR-15 over the years, and have found better products. The Bed Armor stuff would also be good, It might be slightly rubbery like the Hurculiner, but it is very very strong. I painted a hood with it once, and you could not scratch it off. What I would do is, paint the entire underside with some type of good enamel, and then coat it with the Bedliner (Lots more protection) this is the process that I am taking on my Ski wagon build.

Try an Areosol High-Solids base Enamel (Lots of places carry it) I'm using it on my build. There is also a paintable undercoating which dries rock hard (Not rubberized) that is a good route as well. Rustoleum makes a rock hard Bedliner,that you can brush on, very good stuff. Its about $30 for 1gal, but is worth it! Wal-Mart carries it in the Automotive section.

Its coming along nicely, and look how simple that engine bay is without the Hitachi! I should have thought about the 2WD rad support vs the 4WD rad support, Doh!

I think the PS crossmember has a little notch right under the oil pan, so the hard lines can run under the motor, out of the way. There might also be an extra hole in it. I am not 100% sure about the EA82 crossmember, mainly how the Control arms would attach. There may be no concern there, but figured I would bring that up.

You should be able to hybrid the EA81 lines to the EJ22 pump. I know MilesFox did this with an EA82 Rack and EJ pump. Have the hard lines run out of the EJ pump, then meet them up to Rubber line which would run to the Steering rack (Hose clamps will hold) that is how my EA81 is from the dealer.

Cool! Much obliged. My car is gonna run again!!

Thank you. I appreciate the comment! plus, if I didn't pay you, I don't think I would be very welcome at your house haha I spent a little tire cleaning up the engine and engine bay, I also cleaned up the original alternator and added a little flare (As you will see in coming pictures) I am debating on color, for the new manifold. Pontiac Blue (Same color as Valve covers and Air cleaner) Metallic Gloss Gunmetal White Silver (Alloy look) Cherry Blossom Red (Japanese Power Color) Which one...?

I take it you hammed up the Hood support framing? I did this to my Legacy so I could run the larger ram air style air snorkel. Don't know if I'd want to hammer up my new hood.

Beautiful! I like it!

I would hate to buy a NOS part, only to cut it up and use it for my purpose. Tom Redmond said he has one from a Brat, so I will probably be swapping that one on. I would have taken on off the '82 Hatch I found, but it was in a slight collision and was dented. As for whats going on, I'm hoping to finish welding up the passenger side rocker this weekend, and then coat the entire floor on that side. Then its onto the Driver side rocker and floor. I am desperately trying to get this car driving in a months time so I can take it to the Don Miller Subaru Show, Its going to be tight!

This is why you mount two larger driving lights in place of the original turn signals, then everyone will know when your turning! I never trust anyones blinker anyway, people never turn when its on.

When my speedo says 65, I'm really going 70ish. 27" tires will do that to ya :cool: To the OP, I would pull apart the motor and see what in all you would need to replace, upon that discovery is when I would make decision to rebuild the EA82T or start looking for a good Duel-Port EJ22.

That poor DL. Subaru dependability. Loose it in the woods, find it 10yrs later, and drive it away! I75eya, 50mph is scary as hell in these old rigs

I was under the inpression the EJ rad was taller then the EA82? Perhaps this only applies to EA81 bodied cars.

Its up to you how much stuff you want to remove. I can always swap stuff from my intake. I'm not Weberizing it ATM, so I'll be using everything. Just want my car to run again Mick, that is the lower rad support, yeah? Looks slightly different than mine, probably because it is a 2WD?

A motor is only as good as you treat it. Over boost it, and drive it hard all the time, and the EJ22 will fail. A decently gone over EA82T, with low boost and driven like a normal car with the occasional open up, and you'll be fine. I truly don't see how the EA82T can be worse then the EA82, and mine has served me well for over 6 years now. Its not a performance engine, don't treat it as such. Although, these motors are happy with higher RPMs (Mine runs at 4,100rpm at 65mph) don't be shy with the RPMs

Is this Turbo Loyale a 4EAT?

You will also still be using the stock EA82 radiator, but you will have to make a custom Upper and lower hose, as the EA82 hose is smaller then the EJ22 hose. So, you'll have to do the old "Hose in a Hose" with clamps trick. You can not run the EJ22 radiator, will not fit in the Loyales radiator support. You will also need a custom engine pitch rod, the EA82 pitch rod is to long, the EJ22 pitch rod is to short.

I'm kinda surprised you could advance it that far with out pinging!

You'll want a 1990-95 Legacy for the EJ22 2.2 motor. It is a Duel port engine, which means you can run Headers on it, and it is still a Non-interference motor, single timing belt, pretty bullet proof. You'll need a Bellhousing adaptor, re-drilled fly wheel, complete cut-down engine wire harness, to do an EJ swap correctly, so it looks good, not just a spliced in mess, it'll take a little time. I personally would rebuild the EA82T, there isn't much for hop-ups though. Delta-cams Torque or 1000-grind.