psylosyfer

You did a great job on your article! Many thank's

Consider converting to SPFI Night & day difference compared to carbs! Details are at this site http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html

Larger Diameter tires improved my hiway mileage, But degraded my acceleration enough to notice, and slightly lowered my stop and go mileage. Which makes sense as they travel further with each revolution, but use more power (or the same for longer) to get rolling, Everything is a compromise

Thanks guy's Ireally appreciate the tip's ,Does anyone know what the voltage should be at the pulse sensor plug? Or do you need an oscilloscope to check it?

You may be able to find the rubber parts to rebuild your master cylinder if needed. rebuild kits are around $15, Opening the bleeder should not have let in "millions of bubbles" unless the master ran dry or someone pumped the pedal while it was open. If you did the rear shoes your pedal will go to the floor "or close" until the self adjusters open a ways, After you bleed th system you'll want to roll backwards a brake firmly several times to adjust the rear and take up the space between the shoes and drums. Also I never needed to in a subaru but once I had a volvo that had to be pressure bled, your local tire shop probabaly has a pressure bleeder to fix you up if all else fails.

Screw the piston clockwise until it is flush with the hole it's in (or enough to clear new brake pads over disk)

Actually nicer than cracking brake lines and using a monster "C" clamp like most cars! just screw the calipers piston back in and good to go!

I have had great results using a large channellocks slightly open just put over grooves and turn.

4wd vehicles 148 ft/lbs. frnt 145 ft/lbs. rear (factory specs.)

Don't know about other states but California does not require smog check when transferring vehicles in immediate family. And besides has anyone ever heard of any DMV clerk popping a hood and dating a cars engine? Swapping engines sure sounds like the way to go!

Take my advice having accsess to both a 91 loyale and my girlfreinds 87 blazer, The subaru is more comfortable, drives nicer , gets better mileage, The blazer squeaks and rattles,ALOT the back windows don't go down so the front ones blow wind in you face, Blazer is MISERABLE when AC goes out, The only reliable thing is the engine which is actually a small block chevy with two cylinders lopped off to make a V6. The trannys are notorius for failing "automatic" Have not heard anything about manual trans. Normally I like chevy's as far as domestic goes but the more I drive my loyale the less we use the blazer" she prefers the subaru as well! Oh GM also used water based paint in that eradue to EPA paint restrictions, and ours is trying real hard to peel, oxidize etc. If you do your own maintenance and know subarus already I'd be suprised if you would'nt regret the blazer over a good used loyale/gl/legacy, Almost as soon as you own it. Good Luck

I have had 2 87 gl's and a "special gl import from japan shipped special for a rich japanese dudes daughter to use for college" it had EVERY option ever invented and then some that I never even seen in a cadillac! I paid $100, $20, $100 respectively. Since I found a clean 91 Loyale with 40K on engine for $500. The only one that needed no work "at first" was the $20 car! other 2 gl's needed timing belts for one and head gaskets for the other, then ran for years, The loyale needed a fuel pump and had a fouled plug. I have even been offered free sub's the owners wanted hauled off. So shop around it pays!

Seem like it would be cheaper and easier to install NOS

"Accelerator pump" the diapghrams go bad ! Also pull cap and check if advance is functional.

you might get some temporary improvement free and easy, If the spring adjusters aren't already on the "top" step, Put them there! Should firm up quite a bit.

My 91 loyale had similar symptoms when the fuel pump was failing. relay cycles on/off/on/off etc. with the key on, I could kneel down by the rear passenger tire and her the pump cycle with the relay. But when I pulled the hose off the "under hood " fuel filter, And turned the key on I only had a drizzle. Replaced pump, started instantly and runs great! Does it run if you spray starter fluid in the air intake, while cranking it?

A while back My car suddenly "died" had spark at coil but not to plugs, Turned out that my 1 month old rotor went bad, the high voltage "punched through" to the shaft in the distributer, shorting it to ground. Never happened before or since! Sorry I missed that we are talking about an ej22, So rotor not applicable.

I'd be willing to wager that it would work on ALL nippon seiko gauge clusters, (that's what the little NS in the lower right hand corner of the cluster stands for), As they are interchangeable through several years/models.

http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA82/89_non_XT_partial.zip If you download this PDF, You can find all the pinouts and codes in it for your fuel system.

I've had 7 EA82's with Hitachi's and I can tell you my first experience with SPFI made a believer out of me! EVERYTHING is better, starts, accelleration, mileage, and a nice rock solid smooth idle.

"safety" Why don't you remove the door lock bulb from the dash if you do not want to lock them or see the light?

I reverse flushed my heater core with a garden hose ,put in a 195 thermostat, And my heater works great. My temp. gauge still reads very low,(better than hot!) All my other subarus ran mid gauge. I'd sure take ten minutes to try this before tearing into core R&R

91 loyale AC starts then stops after a few seconds, hitting off then on every time it stops does start to blow cold. Any ideas why the compressor stops?

I put a 195 thermostat in my 91 loyale and reverse flushed the core from under the hood with full blast garden hose, Heater now works great temp guage never goes barely off cold.

I had similar problem turned out to be a relay behind the dash low on drivers side, cylindrical metal can with plug on bottom. there are 4or 5 of them just swap one at a time to find hibeam relays