afterbang

+1 for King Springs. I install these frequently and have yet to have a dissatisfied customer. Just did a set on an 05 H6 and the ride quality was amazing. Primitive Racing in Oregon is our supplier for them. Stock has been iffy bc the dock strikes, but there's a shipment of them waiting to be unloaded if they don't have what you need right now.

So, other than the spin-on filter not existing, that car may truly have the same transmission as some 4-cyl models.

Yeah, I get that the actual gears are different, but I've stuffed random transmissions into random Subarus many times now and never had any issue with the TCU not liking it. Do you have any direct experience that the TCU will throw codes or is this just a speculation? I checked out parts.subaru.com, and it says that the H6 LL Bean from 2004 shares transmissions with other 2004 Legacy and Baja models.

I have a family friend that has a 2004 OB LL Bean that is in need of a replacement transmission. From what I know, the LL Bean does not have VDC and unlike the H4 model OBW, it has a 4.11 final drive. So, this means I can just throw in any Phase 2 4EAT 4.11 tranny and that's it? I honestly don't know if there would be any difference between the transmission in this car and a 00-04 Legacy auto, but for parts sourcing simplicity, that would be awesome if they were cross compatible. Thanks for any insight that can be provided.

I work for the shop that grossgary is referring to, Superior Soobie and Import, and we would be happy to help. Compared to what I have been seeing other local shops in Portland charge for HG jobs, we are the most reasonably priced, even on the EJ255 engine. The shop number is 503-880-4084.

I'm sorry to hear about the troubles you are experiencing with your Baja. Whenever timing belt jobs are performed at the shop I work for, we use the Gates kit without the water pump and buy either an Paraut or OEM water pump, depending on the customer's budget. The shop you had work performed at is right about one thing, all the idlers, the tensioner, and the water pump need to be replaced when a timing belt is replaced, which didn't happen on your vehicle. I have seen timing belt failures occur on Subarus that well surpass the 105k mark without being changed, and it's usually the cogged idler seizing that causes the belt failure, not the belt itself. In regards to the oil loss, if you're not seeing any external oil leaks, the oil is more than likely being consumed due to carboned up oil control rings or worn piston rings, which I see quite often on Subarus that don't get regular oil changes or use cheap, junk conventional oil. If your Subaru started to consume quite a bit more oil after the head gasket job, it may be due to a mechanic doing a sloppy job and letting debris get into the cylinders, which may have caused accelerated wear to the piston rings. This can only be remedied by removing the pistons, cleaning the heck out of em, and installing new piston rings. If you're going to have the heads off of your engine to install new valves, you should ask about how much more it would be to re-ring your EJ25. Our shop charges $500, and $750 if you want your pistons knurled to eliminate piston slap. As far as you having any grounds to pursue legal action, I could only see you having a case if you were told that all the idlers, tensioner, and water pump were going to be replaced when your engine was reassembled during the head gasket replacement. Subaru states that the belt is due at 105k, but they don't explicitly state that the idlers, tensioner, and water pump need replacement. I have even seen local Subaru dealerships advertise $300 dollar timing belt replacement jobs, but that only includes the belt. If I were you, I would also look into a used engine. It may be a more affordable repair to just replace the long block with a known good, used unit. However, I always recommend that the head gaskets be replaced first, with Subaru EJ255/257 head gaskets or Six Star stopper head gaskets and a new timing belt kit installed. The one thing that irks me the most is, you paid over $3000 dollars for a head gasket job and you didn't get all new timing belt components? I am currently doing a head gasket job on a Baja, which includes a complete timing belt kit and a new Exedy clutch kit and the customer is being charged $1950.

Hey everyone. I have a very nice 1983 GL 4WD wagon that was gifted to me that I would like to get up and running. A customer at my work brought it in because the car was barely running and it ended up only having 15psi compression on cylinder 1. As of now, I have the EA81 in the car, a member on here provided me another complete solid lifter EA81 that unfortunately had water in cylinder 1 and a trashed cylinder wall, and my boss just gave me two immaculate block halves that were media blasted and properly stored. However, those block halves came from a late model Brat with hydro lifters. I would like to just rebuild a short block with SPFI EA82 pistons with the case halves I have and put new valves into one of the sets of heads with the solid lifter rocker assemblies, but I cannot find definitive information on if I can use the solid lifter rocker assemblies and push rods with the hydro lifter short block. Sorry if this has been covered before, but my searching didn't come up with any solid information. Thanks to anyone that can provide any insight.

crossing my fingers that the key way isn't destroyed.

Oh, and by the way, I have a known good input and pinion shaft from a 4.111 99 Forester transmission. Has a brand new rear input shaft bearing installed by me. If you want to muster up the bravery to crack yours open, this could be a good option for you. Have a brand new thrust plate for it as well, but I'd have the check what number it is.

I just replaced the rear input shaft bearing on a 2001 Outback 5MT and it had a speed sensor. Also, the plug that Subaru uses to close the hole in the case for the manual transmissions that don't have that speed sensor has an application date of 2005-2014, according to the part number information. This leads me to believe that 2004 would be the last year it was used.

I own a 2014 WRX 5-door and purchased it because I couldn't afford to buy an STI and I wasn't going to buy one used. I was doing work to a 2010 STI at work the other day and got to drive it extensively. It also was a hatch and in my opinion, I truly do not think the price difference is worth it. Yes, the STI has tighter and more responsive handling, but it may be considered harsh for some. Doing some pulls in the STI, I really could not tell much of a difference in power. Do I wish I had the 6MT and DCCD? Of course. However, there are plenty of aftermarket options for suspension upgrades, sway bars, and bushings, that could easily make a WRX out handle an STI without spending nearly as much money. If I were you, I would buy a brand new 2015 WRX. It has a twin scroll turbo, 6MT, and many other improvements over the 2014 that you can find out about online. For me, I had to have a hatch. Also, I think the 2015 is a very ugly car. I have no plans to modify my car and I'm very happy with it. Whether you get a WRX or STI, I'm sure you'll be happy with it as well, but make sure if you're buying used you don't buy a car that's been beat on or hasn't been maintained properly.

Used a GMB kit with a Subaru WP in my wife's 2003 Legacy and the tensioner failed at 10k. Made an awful tapping sound and the belt skipped one tooth. This also happened to my boss' wife's Legacy almost instantly on a newly installed used 251 shortblock. He thought it was just very bad piston slap, but the belt ended up skipping 3 teeth and the car wouldn't even start due to the cam position sensor picking it up. I've decided to just use the Gates kit with Subaru WP from now on.

Make me 1" strut spacers for my WRX, Patrick. I'll pay you in high fives.

On my 14 WRX, it's just a bunch of black plastic clips at the bottom of the side skirt and where it attaches in the wheel well. If you go to parts.subaru.com, you can enter you car information and look at the same parts diagrams that the dealer parts departments have. This will show every clip/fastener and where it's located.

are you experiencing overboost? the ecu will cut fuel if there is an overboost event.

in my experience, quick cable branded solder connectors are the easiest and most solid replacement battery terminals. i replaced both positive and negative battery cables and terminals in a toyota today using these. get some heat shrink tubing too.

actually, using alcohol does work to get cars to pass emissions. the subaru shop I work at did this to get an old jeep to pass for the owner's friend that kept failing and had no money to fix it... It works. I offered this "remedy" lightheartedly and where did I ever say that it would "cure" the problem?

fill your gas tank with denatured alcohol and retest. problem solved

I keep on reading conflicting information on this topic and cannot seem to sort the factual from the anecdotal. Per the subaruoutback.org website: "Ghostwalking does not seem to affect European/Austrailian/Japanense spec Outbacks, nor does it affect the Legacy cars." "The USA Outback is raised an additional inch compared to Outbacks sold in other regions and does not include a load-dependent self-leveling system. It is plausible that the added height and lack of self-leveling feature compromises the suspension geometry and driving dynamics." However, I have read instances where people have complained about symptoms of this issue in their Legacy NON-Outback wagons. I am sure I will not find definitive answers to my questions, but I was hoping someone on here with more knowledge of the problem could let me know if buying an N/A 05 Legacy 2.5i would be a sound purchase.

I completely forgot about this problem existing, as it's been at least a couple years since I've seen any posting on the topic. Being in the market to buy a new-to-me Subaru, do you know if this problem as been exhibited on any 05-07 Legacy wagons? I live in the Cascade foothills and I often drive in the snow with my 2 and 4-year-old daughters. Freezing fog and black ice is also a big problem too. It scares me just reading about this phenomena and I wouldn't even risk buying one of the last of the Legacy wagons if there is even a remote possibility of this being a problem. Even if it can be remedied, I am not buying a new car so I can jump right into wrenching on it. I only ever have time to work on other people's cars and this is one of the reasons why I'm looking for something newer.

Subaru long life coolant is the normal green stuff, but it supposedly has a different formulation. The "super coolant" is the blue stuff and it's not spec'd for use in your car. Just use the normal green stuff from any auto supply store and save yourself the money. Working on Subarus most days at work, I've never seen the supposed gelling that the long life claims to protect against, even on the most neglected of cars. I bought my wife an 03 Legacy, which was always dealer serviced and had the long life in it. When I did the t-belt job on it, I just used a 50/50 mix of the normal stuff.

that'll buff out.

I used to own a 2006 Tribeca that was passed down to my family. The third row seating is very, very tiny in the back and we never used it. I couldn't imagine anyone over 5' being able to sit back there. The car was super plush with leather, heated seats and DVD package, but I would never choose to buy one. Also, the gas mileage was pretty horrendous and the 5EAT transmission was very unresponsive. There was a lot of lag present when you needed the thing to take off and there were more than a few instances where I feared for my safety when needing quick acceleration that took wayyy too long to kick in. The car is also very top heavy and does not have the stability that other subarus are known for. I ended up selling it and buying a 2003 Legacy. Just my two cents...

check the negative battery terminal. seems random, but when i replaced my corroded, rusted out negative battery terminal it fixed that very same problem in my wife's 4EAT! best of luck!

There is no such thing as a 1999 Legacy Outback with an EJ22. I am assuming that it's just an engine from a 1999 Legacy. If the engine you have is an EJ222 (phase 2), I believe that they are not plug and play with the EJ25d that was in your Outback. It sounds like your mechanic should have chosen an engine to swap in that was a model year older. That would have completely eliminated having to modify the wiring harness to get it to run.