blackbart

I think the relay is located on the left rear shock tower, I can let you borrow one to see if that is the problem, just pay shipping both ways.

I don't go through many per car, just got a lotta cars. Where I live dosn't help either, dirt roads, off roads.....some get torn on debris, some just got old and rot. Currently have seven Legacys, five "on the road", one project, one parts car. Been driving nothing but Subs for 25 years. Changed alot of axles!

I have been asking myself the same question for some time. What if they made a boot with a stainless steel mesh over it, one that conformed with the shape of the boot?

If you have air in the system the water will not move. Check for a head gasket failure, this isn't all that easy on the Subs, most of the symptoms make it look like a bad radiator, water pump.....etc. With the engine cool, top off the coolant in the radiator and up to the "fill" line on the overflow tank. Start the engine and look into the overflow tank, you may see bubbles for a short time but if they continue for more than a few minutes the exhaust could be blowing into the coolant...bad head gasket. You may even want to try removeing the radiator cap while the engine is cold and starting it, look for bubbles there also.

I have a rebuilt TURBO tranny in PA, the rebuild cost $2300 at Aamco, the car got wrecked, I saved the transmission, anybody care to make an offer?

I have 6 in my driveway, I live in a rural area so my "block" goes on for miles. I would say one out of ten cars (not counting pick up trucks) out here are Subarus.

Drain the oil, remove the back cover, count the teeth on the ring gear, if it has 39 teeth it is a 3.90, if it has 41 teeth it is a 4.11. I have both and can ship.

I went through the same thing when the HG went on my 90 legacy, turned out that the swing in the temp (as shown on the dashboard)was the air in the system causing the coolant to get "stuck". When you sharply increase or decrease you speed you can "splash" the water through the air pocket. Now the cooler coolant that was stuck in your radiator makes it's way to your temp sender and it appears that the problem is comeing and going.

There is a guy near me in Northeast PA who changed the head gasket on an Outback, the labor was $500 and he changed the timeing belt and the water pump. Don't know what the parts cost. I saw him doing it and asked him about the labor because my wife has a 98 Outback 2.5, it's just a matter of time before I am in there.

Head gasket. The HG leak caused an air pocket to stop the coolant flow, when you came to a stop the coolant rushed ahead through the air pocket allowing the cool fluid from the radiator to get to your temp sensor. This drove me nuts until I figured it out. I thought that I had some kind of junk in my system that was cloging and un-clogging the system. Head Gasket.

Head gasket. No doubt in my mind. The air pocket got there due to the leak, the air will not let the coolant move. I found that if your have no warm air from your heater the coolant is not circulating. I bet that the next time it gets hot and you quickly come to a stop you may see the temp drop sharply. The water is forced to move foward through the air pocket. You will also feel heat from your vents for a little while. Try it.

The pinion is 14.25" from end to end. It is 16" from the threaded end to the center of the axle.

You have to press it out, of course you have to remove the ring carrier first. I wouldn't do this just to clean it up, can't you tape off the nut area instead? When you go to put things back together you will have to check for backlash, the spacing between the teeth on the ring and pinion. This is done with shimms. (Don't take it apart.)

Does it release if you push the shifter forward firmly with the palm of your hand as you push the button? If it does, the trans linkage needs to be adjusted.

My 94 did the same thing last week, the ground terminal on the battery was ugly, I cleaned it up and the problem was gone. I had a spare starter in my hand, ready to swap it in, then I checked the connections on the battery and the starter. The battery terminal looked ok from the outside but there was alot of corosion once I pulled the connecter off.

Thank you much, Frank

What is the rear diff ratio on the 02 Forester? Are any of them lsd? The front diff carrier and the rear diff carrier "look" the same, are they?

I think I should move this to the MARKETPLACE, I didn't mean to take over this thread.

The only thing wrong is that it's not in MY driveway. Looks JDM to me, thats a JDM badge, RHD.

Here is a real nice 93 5MT on Ebay in CT, not mine, wish it was. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4555244794&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT I have a 92 SS donor if anybody is interested. I am in Northeast PA.

Are the n/a 90-91 ECU's interchangable with the 92-94 n/a's if they are both 4eat's?

If we are talking about rear Viscous LSD's (VLSD), like the 91 Tuurbo, it takes regular gear oil. The internal LSD parts are sealed, the oil will not get to it. If we are talking about the older LSD's (non-viscous, not VLSD) like the ones in the older RX's, they take special LSD fluid.

I second that.

I second that.

That Craftsman Bolt Out set is the most usefull tool I bought in the last ten years. Fisrt I borrowed my friend's, then I bought the regular set (strong but wide), the impact set (3/8" drive) and the power bit set (stick it in a screw gun or turn it with a 1/4" socket). They only come with a ONE YEAR warrranty, not the lifetime one. Save your receipt, the impact and the power bits can break, I just got back from Sears tonight, they replaced two that I broke.