Silent Bob

In this case, I think your salesman is correct. The multifunction display on the base/premium models doesn't do a whole lot, and the owners manual is not entirely correct. I wouldn't waste a 3 hour trip over it.

Assuming alloy wheels: Remove the wheels and look at the center of the hub on the car, you will likely see a ring of corroded aluminum built up around the hub center. Remove this- it will probably require a hammer and chisel, then thoroughly clean up the wheel centers with a wire brush. Then buy daughter an inexpensive 1/2" torque wrench, torque to 80-85lb and it will likely be fine. Check for damaged studs& nuts also, but I've frequently found the corrosion to be the root of the problem.

Front crank seal is the only oil seal replaced with the short block. That and valve cover gaskets. The rest is all RTV, a LOT of RTV. Most likely culprit would be that the chain cover was not cleaned and/or sealed properly. Take it back and have them check it out, and ask to look at it before they start cleaning it off. Or crawl underneath and look to see where the oil is coming from first.

On top of the transmission tunnel, underneath the radio.

On the 2016, if the airbag ECU fires something, it will set a DTC that can not be cleared. (B11E0 for a rollover) and must be replaced. Good news is they are plug and play- no programming/configuration required.

3.0l Tribeca- misfire at startup &blowing white smoke. It cleared up after a few seconds and ran fine after that, until it sat for a while and the it would repeat. Don't remember whether it overheated or not. Figured out that if I pressurized the cooing system it would push coolant into the cylinder (#3) and I could duplicate the miss and smoke every time I started it. Assumed it to be a HG problem, but machine shop found a crack in the head.

Replace the belts. It will be the whole belt/retractor/pretensioner assembly. B-pillar trim just snaps in, bottom half comes off first. May have to replace airbag control unit also. Strange that none of the bags deployed, had one not long ago that hit a deer and popped every bag in the car. That was fun to fix.

I had one in the shop with similar symptoms- turned out to be a cracked head.

Slightly easier to get the pump in place, but not necessary. and not worth the trouble unless replacing cam seals also.

A good test for a flaky clutch is to run the AC until it stops cooling. At that point, see if the clutch is engaged and the compressor is spinning. If not, unplug the clutch connector and see if you have 12v at that point. If so, the clutch is suspect. Also check for ground through the clutch itself to make sure the coil isn't open. The quick version of the test is to run AC till it stops cooling then whap the end of the clutch with a hammer or large screwdriver. If I suddenly starts working again, your clutch clearance is too big.

If it's the base Clarion radio, I believe it will only store 1 phone at a time. So delete whatever is already paired and start over. Subaru, for whatever reason, recommends using voice commands to pair vs. doing it with the buttons (don' know why). If it's Android, you may have to change the PIN# from 1234 to 0000 or vice versa. Double check compatibility- sometimes new phone versions do not always play nice with older head units. Now if the steering wheel controls do not work at all, you may have an issue with either the switches, head unit, or clockspring.

Where exactly is the transmission leaking? If it is the input seal area behind the torque converter then yes, it's possible it could have been damaged during the engine swap. If it's leaking somewhere else, then you should just fix it and move on.

Reverse braking/ backup warning will definitely not work as the sensors will be blocked by the basket or trailer. RCTA/BSD ***may*** still work ok depending on how wide the basket is, as the sensors are in the corners of the bumper and aimed outward at an angle. You would just have to try it and see.

Mine went to 265k. Had a bit of TB but not terrible. Then something broke and it was done. I'd think trans swap would maybe be a better option.

Check with your local NAPA. They may have a speedy-sleeve available for it. They're meant to fix just this sort of problem.

Used/unregistered ECM should communicate with the scan tool, even if the car won't start. Load test power& ground circuits to ECM- They can show voltage/continuity but not be able to carry current, due to corrosion or broken strands of wire. Check for loose or pushed out terminals in ECM connectors. Look for mice. I can't count the number of electrical issues I've run across caused by mice eating things... Unplug ETC, APP, cruise control, brake switch, ABS unit and see if ECM will communicate. May be a short pulling down a reference voltage circuit. If it talks, then start plugging things back in one at a time until you lose communication again. The last thing you plugged in may then be the source of your problem. Other than that, I got nuthin'

Check fuel pressure. Also make sure It holds pressure for 5 min or so after you shut it off. Also make sure security light is not staying on when you try to start it- that would indicate an immobilizer issue, and consequently no fuel. (although that "should" set a DTC).

If SOHC, flush out the rocker shafts. Lots of metal tends to collect there.

CEL- probably coincidental. hazards- forgot to plug the switch back in. Iphone thingy- most likely interrupts the antenna, so again likely forgot to plug it in.

Flare and or shudder, with a terrible metallic screech likely means the chain in the CVT is slipping. Prepare your wallet for a new trans.

Don't pull the knuckle out so far and dislocate your inner axle joint. Remove the nut and slip the outer end out of the hub.

See plenty of "A/C not cooling properly" complaints. Drop the glovebox, pull out the (usually original) cabin filter- full of leaves, twigs, hair, and the occasional medium sized rodent. Suddenly it works fine, Imagine that...

If you look, that same seam is present on the EJ engines as well... '11 model fb25 seems to be a little more leak prone. I think there was a production change in the cleaning/sealing process later on and you don't see quite as much after that.

That's what I was getting at. The expansion valve is attached to the evaporator core. Inside the HVAC box under the dash on a 95 I think. Not sure if Autozone, etc have loaner gauges, but Harbor Freight sells a set that's around $50 or so. along with a $13 vacuum pump that's pretty slick.

Totally get not wanting to spend $ on a beater car. Point is, the gauge you are using is only telling you part of the story- the low side pressure. Unless the system is almost totally empty, the low side is going to be +-70psi with everything off, and +-30psi with the A/C running. The high side is a bit more telling. It should be around 225psi, A/C running. Excessive pressure will shut off the compressor, and can indicate a sticking/frozen/ obstructed expansion valve. One thing you can check without a gauge- Run the A/C until it acts up and shuts off. When the compressor quits, unplug it, and with a meter or test light see if there is still voltage at the connector. If so, the clutch may not be engaging. Ran into that a few weeks ago, cooled fine until the compressor cycled off- then the clutch would not re-engage.