soobme

I could make one, might not be quite as fancy as the stock ones, but it would look good and work good.

If it really makes 1psi of boost that would help, but no more than a good ram air induction set up would. Infact, I bet the ram air set up would work even better, and cost a H#$% of a lot less than that fan in a pipe! And it would look C:cool::cool: L

Right around 30#, less W/O the spair tire holder

Prity, shiny, I like it!!!

Shoot me an E-mail and I will get U on the list;)

I can fix U both up with NICE 30# steel racks;)

Mine had 7 bolt all together that held it in, 4 on the fire wall, 2 on the collom, and 1 holding the wiring. They are a BI@#$ to get out and in!

If any one is interested, there is a new album in the gallery on making The Subaru Junkie's roof rack. It's step by step, and has some close ups of my welds, and the gutter clamps.

We got one down here in Medford @ the Action U-Pull it yard, I don't know what they go for. I could call them on monday and find out for ya.

I love it! Ruber bump stops!

As some of U know, I use hood pins to hold down my hood. Well while I was in the store today some A-hole thought it would be funny to pull them out! I did not notice......and at 50MPH the hood flew up:eek: The hood is trashed, but thanks to the roof rack with a front mounted spair, no cracked window or dents in the roof!

Yes, I'm thinkin' that the East coast would be the big market for these. Salt on the roads and all. Here on the west coast we take non rusted soobs for granted:eek: I think that I will do the 1st one free hand so to speak, and then see what hapens from there.

I might be a little to " Beat it to fit and paint it to mach", but I think that boots are boots! they are rubber, they WILL fit. But really, how much of a diferance can 5mm or so make.

Somone sugjested that I start making "Air gates" ( steel mesh tail gate ) for Brats. I was just wondering how much interest there was in these? He thinks that there is a lot. So if there is, I will make a jig to build them on.

Jack up the body on that side, pull the wheel, the big nut in the center, the inner roll pin, and seperate the lower ball joint from the spindel. Then put a big pice of wood over the end of the axle and smak it with a big hammer. Install in reverse. Or just use a roll of seran wrap and wrap the CV with that:drunk: ( not that I'm STILL driving around on my trail fix or any thing:-p )

If U send it to me in JPEG I can do it for ya.Send it here

Eazy bolt in swap. The peddal assy. is the hardest part. ( do your self a favor and take aout the driver side front seat while U do the peddals!) When U do it don't do what I did and run the cluch cable ON TOP of the steering shaft. Now I need to take the shaft aprart @ the joint and get the cable UNDER the shaft:rolleyes: And the front 1/2 of the drive shaft IS diferant between the 5spd and auto, but the back 1/2 ( from dif to CB) is the same. Hope that helps.

Uh.... what's wrong with the site? Am I the only one it's not working for?

Tight on the axle and outer CV cup, loose on the CV to axle area. Keept the rocks out all day:D (That's how I lost the 1st CV of the weekend, got a rock in the joint:( )

I got 2 of 'em for y'all. The 1st I used last weekend with good results. Shrink wrap! This can be put on even if the CV is still on the car:D I had a roll of 3" wide and made 4 or 5 full wraps of the CV with it and it held for the whole day of wheelin'. I bet that seran wrap would work too if U used enough. 2nd: motorcycle inertoob, cut a 8"-9" section of it and hose clamp or zip-tye it on. U would have to take the axle out of the car to do this, but I bet it would hold up for a while if done right;) Just thought I would share:drunk:

Is "E-10" the Snap-On part #, or just the type of socket? (I need to get one too)

I can make U an adaptor for the standard 3 bolt patern if U have an old steering wheel U can prt with. I made one for my car, and am now using a Grant GT4 wheel.

2 best mods on my car: welded rear dif:burnout: 27" mud tires on pug alloys:burnout: Made the wheelin' a blast!

If U go to an exaust shop, they will have "hose clamps" in the right dia. to fit the CV so U only have to use 1 on each end of the boot. As for the roll pins........:temper: I just use cotter pins, they work great, even when U trash a CV they still hold on, and come out 5X eazer than the roll pins. No punch needed!

I hate to say it but that sounds more like a gear problem, dif. or R&P poss. I am by no means an expert. Any one got other thoughts in on this:eh: