soobme

U SUCK!!!! :temper: I'm green with envy:headbang: I want a touring wagon sooooo bad! And a turbo on top of that! I hope U can work it all out, that car would be PIMP!

I don't have a CB any more:eek: I have been using FRS raidos for "car to car" for 2 years now. I have 2 of them. I was thinking of getting 1 or 2 more. But if I need to I can get a CB and put it in for the trip. Brian, where are U whith this? It's a good point, "car to car" is VERY nice for trips like this.

Once in a while, when I get on it hard, it starts to act like it's running out of gas. I don't have a fule presure gauge to look at yet, but the fule filter IS new( 2mo old). It just seems like it's not geting as much fule suply as it needs, and then it acts like it's running out of gas for a while. I have disconected the hi boost fule cut out, so I don't think that's it. Any one got any ideas, had this hapen with U?:eh:

After wheeling for 14 years, in every thing from Baja bugs to a Jeep wagoneer, and being on each side of the fence on this one. I think it all depends on the driver, the rig , and the specific terain. There are times to run street presure, and times that it will get U stuck, or worse yet, a flat tire. Airing down will help with traction, floatation, and punture resistance. But some times one, or all three of those are not a concern, or they are in the other direction( U want less of them). And some drivers have no idea how to take advantage of lower presure in there driving style, so it would be pointless. I do, and more often then not, I air down. That's NOT to say that every one needs to, but it works for me and it has worked for others. To those who do not, life has GOT to be eazyer;)

OK, I'm slow, but..........I went to that "gater" link, it sound interesting. But WHAT IS IT? I didn't see where to go to find out exactly what it is (IE what componants are in it, what's it cost, how do U mount it?)

I'm not looking for, nor do I expect any improvements in power. I would just like to clean out the engine bay, and simplify the engine as much as poss. Any input on this is welcom.

I have no more cat.s. Now I would like to remove as much of the vac. lines as poss. Who has done this? What all can come off? I know that I still need the vac. signal to the dizy, the heating sys., the power brakes, the fule presure reg., and I want to keep the line to the boost light sender( it looks like thats where the heater gets it's line from anyway)

This is going to be sooooo much fun:banana: I can hardley wait:headbang:

Iv'e got the center case vent hose going to open air, the pass. side going to the intake hose before the turbo, and the driver side going to the port on the intake ( where the idle air bypass valve gets its air from) No PVC valves any where, is that bad? I plan on running them all to 1 air box with a small UNI air filter on it.

So if I understand U right: U want to slow down how fast U hit max boost?!?! Uh......why?:eh: A by-pass valve is a wonderfull thing, and good for the turbo too. If U are having the same torqu steer/ traction problems @ 11psi that I am, just use 4wd when U want to get on it:burnout: I has made all the diferance in the world for me.

OK, Iv'e been having problems with vacume lines blowing off on the EA82T. Not that big of a deal, I have just been zip-tieing them back on. But yester day on my way to work I passed a big rig, @ full boost (11psi) and I thought I smelled burning oil. I looked in the rear view, and I see a big cloud of oil smoke in the road right where I passed, but I wasen't smoking any more. When I got to work I found 1 of the 3 vac. lines that go to the base of the TB off, and there was oil all over the top driver side of the intake. It looked like all the oil came out of the vac. line. I put it back on ( and the other 2 that came off) and I havent had any problems. So what's up with that?!? Oil in the vac. line:eek: It looked like it was fresh out of my engine.

I could make another one, but U would have to use your'e old turbo flange and weld the new down pipe onto that. Would cost around $35 to make another one. I put a new boost gauge on and my by-pass valve. Iv'e got the boost set @ 11psi. When I take off I let the cluch out @ around 1100RPM's, let it roll up to about 2700RPM's and then floor it:burnout: . It starts to burn the tires off @ 10psi and by 11psi its so light and out of controll in the front I have to back out of it:clap: I have not had a car that was this much fun to drive since my last 230HP turbo'ed Baja!

Just wanting to know what muffler U are using, and how loud is it? Right now all I have is a 2" mandrell bent down pipe, and a 2" in/out glass pack and 2" x 12" turn down. It's loud!

The car wouldn't rev past 5000RPM before, and would never boost past 6psi. I am now making 11psi @ 5800RPM. Dam this thing it FAST! I had know idea just how much the cats wer killing it. I think I will turn it down to 9 or 10psi and call it good till I get the by-pass valve in:clap:

Glad to hear it!!! I was feelin' for ya' I been down that road a time or 2. Hey did I mention that I got my down pipe on. IT ROCKS!!!!

When I got my '85 turbo 7mo ago, I did not know that the cats wer starting to close up on it. But as time went on it became clear that somthing was very wrong. So today I made a new down pipe with only a glass pack muff on it, I used a 2" mandrell U bend and cut and welded it to shape.WOW!!!!!!!! I MEAN WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This car will burn them off (all 4 that is) on the 2nd to 3rd shift!!!!! I was thinking of swaping out the EA82T for an EA81.NOT ANY MORE! :banana: :burnout:

Yes, they take a special carb, and I don't know about a turbo. Looking @ the sys. we run on our hysters I would think that it would need to be a "draw through" sys. for it to work. The propane sys. we use consists of 1) P. tank 2) Converter/Regulator valve 3) P. carb.

I'm sorry to hear that. I will keep my ear to the ground for ya, and if any thing comes up I will let U know. What do U need in the way of parts? I can keep an eye out for those too. I just got a magazine (Kit Car) that tells how to make your'e oun drive shafts.

Should I bring any fire wood? I can bring a fire pit too if we need one.:eh:

Yes, it's 134lb/in. Hope that helps;)

Sounds way cool! U got any pic's?? How much weight can those ATV tires hold? and what rims are U using to mount them on the Suby hubs?

Yes, the AC comp is the fastes and best way to go for on board air. It's eazy to do, just cut the rubber lines as close to the unit as poss. then U can tell wich one is the pressure. on the draw side install a drip oiler, and a filter of some type. then run the wire from the cluch to an air compressor switch. That one in the pic. is from the air ride sys. on a Buick Rivieara, but LOTS of cars and trucks in the '80's had some type of air ride sys. and all the compressors are about the same.

For those looking for a good cheep on board air comp. go to the wrecking yard and look at '80's full/mid size American cars for one of these. They make over 110psi, are very quiet and last forever;)

Yea, I do need to add some light tabs and lights to it. I like the idea of " snap on " light grills! I think I will add somting like that to it, thanks! As for the Oz bull bars, I mean NO OFFENCE, they just arent my taste. But seeing them is good insperation for making my stuff that much better, and out of STEEL.

Hey Zap! Glad to hear that it went good( I knew that it would) And I'm very glad that I got to meet U inpeson at last:-) (Schuck's Auto in Medford) I'll get in line for the vid. too. ( hope U do a DVD agen ) I must say that I didn't think that Un-hatched would be the 1st to break . With John's lift still untested, I thought that it would be the 1st. We can now say with certanty that "Subarus have done the 'Con!":D And U went the x-tra mile (or 30) to have the proof! BRAVO!!!